[oregonjoe]

Now I can finally get to the valve covers and head bolts. Sent wife down to parts store to get the special HEX socket to remove head bolts. Yes – it does need to be 3/8” to fit into the recess and past the CAM shafts. I decided to leave the cams in place and not remove them from the head so the machine shop can have the whole assembly to look it. No bearings on the CAMS so wanted them to check tolerances when doing the valves.

Head came off easy after following the correct loosing sequence. Put all the bolts in postal flat rate box with holes punched so I would not mix them up. But have since realized that was unnecessary since I was going to need new bolts anyway.

On that topic, as I was removing the bolts most were tight but number 5 came undone almost without any torque. Mighty suspicious ! The number 2 bolt came out hard and when I looked at it - was not clean and dry like all the rest but showed signs of corrosion.

After removing head noticed coolant in the number 2 head bolt hole – not good. After cleaning the hole further looks like a crack in the threads of the hole to the water jacket. Going to have to remove engine and take block to machine shop to have it checked. I am thinking of going to studs and sealant in the bolt hole may work.

The Number 6 cylinder defiantly had a leak between the water ports and cylinder. The valves were reddish brown while all the other cylinders were whitish tan. The other cylinders were clean an shiny while number 6 has been burning water for a while. The head gasket has a significant oval shape extending to the water jacket – YUP BLOWN GASKET.

I was surprised to see how clean the other cylinders looked after 20 years. I will have the shop check out the block but looks like all it need is some cleaning an a hone to be good as new.