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Old 04-29-2007, 02:38 AM   #17
Z'mnypit
3" Exhaust
 
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Location: Springville, AL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IHateHacks
I'd bet money that you didn't install the CPS correctly. Don't feel bad, I did it too the first time I removed it like 2 years ago.
That was it, pulled it out and realigned and it started right up. SO thats fixed.


Quote:
Originally Posted by IHateHacks
That brown connector that looks like an injector connector is for one of the VSV's that mount underneath the intake manifold.
I couldve swore I plugged that up, I checked and there isnt anything else left to plug up. Could it be the IAT sensor? I have an ses for that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by IHateHacks
That 12" hard vacuum pipe near the air box, the nipple near the motor goes to the BVSV on the top of the thermostat housing, its blue. The nipple that is farthest from the motor goes to the charcoal canister. Both vacuum lines that attach to this prebent hard pipe are about 16" long, maybe shorter.
I got that fixed, it actually went right behind the power steering pump.

Quote:
Originally Posted by IHateHacks
Now that you already turned the motor over and installed the upper timing belt cover, finding the correct TDC is going to be slightly hard unless you drop the coolant and take the thermostat housing off to take the upper timing belt cover off to line the notches up with the cam marks. I hope you can understand what I just said. Only other way to find the correct TDC without dropping the coolant and taking the thermostat housing off, is to take the No.1 cylinders spark plug out and turn the crank with a rachet and when the crank nears the 0 mark on the lower timing belt cover listen to how much air comes out of the spark plug hole, if you hear a rush of air come out you are on TDC of the compressions stroke (all valves closed) if you dont hear any air come out you are on TDC of the exhaust stroke (exhaust valves open, air is escaping out of the valves instead of the spark plug hole). I suggest just dropping the coolant and lining the cams up.

Now, when you find the correct TDC, you have to install the CPS a certain way. I think its page IG-22 in the TSRM. Pretty much, when the CPS is installed correctly the rotor is about 1/2" to the right of the top pickup coil. I can post a picture if you need it. The TSRM explains how to line the drilled mark on the CPS shaft with the groove on the CPS housing which will line the rotor tip exactly with the top pickup coil. It's really not that hard, let me know if you need a more through explanation with pics.

Good luck.
Other then that, the car ran real good all day. Until I washed underneath the hood. Now it spits, spuuters, down on power and it gurggles like its overheating but according to the temp guage its not over heating. So im not sure what going on.

Also after the first oil change, I now have a slight knock under load. Not loud, and not always there. Im hopeing that its something loose.

Got 3 ses codes, 21,34,52 One is MAF, one is knock sensor and the other is the IAT so its not to bad I dont guess.

Im going to try and take it my uncle tommorow and see what he thinks. Hes a head mechanic at a local toyota dealership. Also, the boost gauge is only showing like 6psi, I installed two washers (.025) behind the wastegate so I thought it should be around 10psi or so. Is this a timing issue? All Ive adjusted it basically the CPS just so the car will idle.

Im starting to see the light, Or so I thought. Hopefully by tommorow it will be up to par.

Thanks!
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-99 Z28 A4 6.7L "2006 LS1tech Calendar cover car"
408ci, Comp 244/248, Patriot Stage III LS6 heads, FAST 90mm Intake, NW 90mm TB, SVO 42lb'rs, Pacesetter LT's, ORY, 4L80e, Yank 3400, Motive 3.73's, Racetronix, TNT 200shot, Fikse FM10's

-2005 Silverado Crew Cab 5.3L (Towing), Silverbirch, Hooker Aero Chamber, blacked out windows, sittin on 22's

- Two 87 turbo'd/targa top'd supras (*Under Construction*)
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