so for toyota oil..10W30 is best...and if i use synthetic..i shouldnt use full racing syn right cuz its an old engine..buh i only have 100k miles on it

AMS Oil
 

I have done 3 oil changes on my car now with AMS Oil 10W-30 formulated for 25,000 mile intervals. I am convinced that this is the best oil in the world. I've become more educated about the characteristics of oils and filters. I would like to share my knowledge if you're willing to read this.. if anyone has corrections please post them.

Oils are judged by their "pourocity" (how freely they will pour), the first number (10W) judges the flow of the oil at 0 degrees Celcius (or farenheit?) and as the oil becomes heated the viscocity thickens to the second number (30). Higher viscocity ratings are recommended for higher tempuratue ranges. Although, nowadays, it's recommended by manufacturers to use their muti-viscocity oils that can be used year-round regardless of the tempurature.

Oils should also be judged by their additive package, which for normal gasoline powered spark ignition engines, begins with an S. Diesel, or Compression ignition engine oil additive packages begin with C. Additive packages are rated by letters, as the letter increases with the alphabet (A,B,C,D etc...). The current and most up-to-date additive package is SM. When shopping for oils, regardless of the year of manufacture for the engine, you should always make sure you get the most recent additive package. Since, I am an AMS Oil user, of course AMS Oils have the SM oil additive package. The SN package should be released in oils within the next few years.

Oil filters are designed to filter out particles harmful to critical engine parts. Most oil filters filter particles as small as 7-8 microns, which is incredibly small and very impressive as it is. But AMS Oil filters, are tested to filter particles as small as 1 micron. Which is a big reason why they are so expensive, running approximetly $12-$17. But they are well worth it. My Supra only has 71,000 original miles and am using AMS Oil and the oil pan is bone dry. There are no oil leaks. I would definetly recommend purchasing AMS Oil, the easiest way is to order over the phone which the number is 715-395-0437 or you could find an AMS Oil dealer who can usually get it for you cheaper.

Any filter that filters down to 1 micron does not flow as well as one that filters down to 10 or even 5 microns. I think you know how it works more flow, less filtration. More filtration, less flow.

On a turbocharged MK3 its almost mandatory to use a K&N oil filter because of the 1" bolt head on the bottom of it. If anyone has ever tried to get a cheapo oil filter off of their turbo MK3 they know exactly what I'm talking about. I spent a solid hour trying to position an oil filter wrench up there when I first changed my oil 2 years ago but I did, which I bet you can ask anyone else that has tried, and they would say its impossible. Plus I get K&N oil filters for free anyway so its kind of a no brainer. Now oil changes take me 10 minutes total time elapsed.

I also use Mobil 1 10W-30 because, yep, I get that for free too. Its nice to have connections. :cool:

flow
 

Since, this is a forum :) I would like to state my opinion of "flow" vs. "pressure". My understandings conclude that flow is created by the oil pump which simply flows the oil into the system. The oil pump does not create pressure, restrictions create pressure. Restrictions being width of oil passages, oil clearances, OIL FILTERS, and other passages that oil goes through. This proves exactly what I experience on my vehicle the first time I used an AMS Oil filter, my oil pressure raised approximetly 10-15 psi during normal driving and startup. This would only support your statement that filtering to 1 micron raises the oil pressure because it backs up the flow. (I'm not trying to argue, simply discuss. I always want to learn more. Thanks)