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best oil for 130.000+ mile supra
i have a 87 supra n/a automatic and im going to change the oil myself for the first time and i was wondering what is the best oil to use (it has 130,000+ miles on it), should i change the filter too, and if there are any heads ups when it comes to changing oil?
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Always change the filter when you do an oil change.
Any name brand oil that is 20w-50 will do fine. The 20w-50 is a little thicker than 10w-40, and will fill in the voids of wear in bearings and seals, and piston rings. At the shop, we always use 20w-50 in everything over 100k miles. |
that something that i ddnt know
but is using full synthetic oil bad for high mileage engines? |
i here its kinda hard to remove the filter can someone tell me the steps to take it out and replace?
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i was lookin on the pennzoil web site and they have a link to high milage engine oil and it was 10w-30 and i think it was the same for castrol. are these good types of oils to use? and how many qts/liters do i have to buy?
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they say tests have shown that this fully true synthetic oil is superior to conventional oil in many respects, providing better engine protection, performance, and better flow in cold starts than petroleum-based motor oil (regular). tone loc, synthetic oil is the best way to go but is a little more expensive. as for your question about brands i use castrol syntec (full synthetic) 10w-30. get a 5qt tub and you will have a little left over b/c your car takes 4.7qts. |
oh thanks dude now i just need help with the filter and really i dont know were the filter is or what it looks like soo any basic knowledge will help me
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basic oil filter
http://www.ntpog.org/reviews/filters/fram3593-1.jpg if you are looking at the car's engine straight on it is on the left side of the motor. it's down low and you might need to take some things out to get to it from the top like your intake. |
o good, synthetic is the wat to go then , but the price is about 2 - 3 times a quart of regular oil , but its worth it
im yet to try the greddy full synthetic oil |
Filter
I use a Bosch Filter. Autozone has a device that goes right over the filter fitting it perfectly and u can use a ratchet to get it off. better then the old strap wrenches. The filter is a little akward to get at, but nothing so hard you can't do your self.
Scruff Boy P.S. I was using full syn. but I am now going with Mr.Nickleye's suggestion to use 20w 50. I buy Castrol High Mileage. I'm not sure of what I'll use in the winter. 20w 50 doesn't sound like it'll cut it. |
Tried most wrenches over the years, the one I would recommend is No 1 in the photo below, its called a cap wrench, it has a 1/2 inch or 3/8 inch square hole in the end suitable for the standard extension wrench bar,. I got mine in the UK for about ?3 GBP. If it helps the Toyota Filter measures 74mm with fourteen flats. No 2 photo is a K&N filter with built in hex nut shape on the bottom. I haven’t tried them since the cap wrench does the job. http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5.../wrenches3.jpg |
Cap Wrench
Yes, No. 1 is the one I was talking about. Best 99 cents I ever spent. And like I said, it works with your ratchet.
Scruff |
Filter from the bottom
There is an easy way to get the oil filter out from the bottom!
1st) Jack the car up so you can confortably be under the oil pan area. 2nd) The oil filter NEVER has to be so snug that you can't take it off by hand. It should be snug, but you don't have to torque the thing down either. Soooo....remove the filter by hand, if not, then find a way to loosen it. 3rd) Now with the filter off the car. In the area the filter is sitting there will be an open area up and towards the back of the car, you will find a small tube like area (Feel around...you will find it) that is big enough for the filter to go through, then slide it through there, and it will drop down about 3\4 ft down towards the back end. Once you figure it out for yourself....it will save you time, I don't really know how someone could get the filter out from the top of the car, like it seems people here are suggesting. |
i just changed my oil for the first time today. i used car quest 10w-40 all season and a carquest premium oil filter the bill came to like 30.00 because ihad to buy a oil pan. then i went to sears and bought a 3-ton jack, 2 3-ton stands, a creeper, and oil filter wrench(unversal). the jacks and creeper came as a set so the total was like $145.00. i changed the filter from the top of the car(easy). The only problem that had was that i was wearing a belt and when i was changing the filter i made like a four inch scrach on the fender. that sucked! next time ill try the 20w-50 and i hear that carquest is kind of a hick auto parts store but whatever. im happy with myself.
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Well, if you got the job done you did great for a first timer! Getting yourself a floor jack and some jackstands is a bonus and should searve you well for a long time to come. Since you got a sears nearby start picking yourself up some decent hand tools and try to keep them clean. A good tool box is a must have if you're gonna keep working on cars. The craftsman toolboxes are great if you dont buy the cheap "homeowner" version. Pay a little more and get the one with double roller slides...trust me, you'll probably own it for life (I've owned mine for 20 years and it was by far the best tool investment I ever bought) and it pays to get the better one.
Congrats on the new Supra, and welcome to the community! |
actually i inherited all of my dads tools and he use to work on cars, industrial fridgerators, heating, a/c, and just a lot of diffrent things so i have a good selction of tools. The only thing is my uncle took the air compressor and i have one of those sweet drills that they use in like races to swich off the wheels and when i was young i found a timing light in my garage and at the time i didnt know what it was so i broke it (on accident).Stupid mistake.
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i used those jar openers off my moms cabinet,
it has a rubber ring around it that supposed to grab jar lids so you can twist it open without losing grip, it makes a good tool to take the oil filter off and it ddnt cost me a cent my mom was pissed as hell tho |
holy crap guys.
Thicker oil isn't necessarily better. Please understand tribology before you fire off. Synthetic oil isn't bad for any engine. Unless you're breaking it in... Greddy synthetic oil is 99% likely that it is just waaaaay overpriced regular synthetic. Quote:
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I'm using Mobil Delvac1 5w40 in my Subaru. It's synthetic, and it's meant for diesels, so it's a stable oil that should last a long time. It should be fine in the winter, 5w40 means it's a 5w oil at 32*f and 40w at 212*f Quote:
any other info about oils can be found in these links. Read them all. You're doing yourself a favor by doing so. http://tinyurl.com/azn5o http://tinyurl.com/ouk7t http://tinyurl.com/363cu http://tinyurl.com/b7kr6 |
thoose are some good links
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I wouldnt use 20w50 in my car. Its meant for cars with minor leaks. And 20w50 is probably the worst for a 7M. Its thicker, so it takes a longer time for the oil to get from the oil pan to the head. And thats the worst for this engine. The heaviest weight I would use is 10w30. Maybe 5w30 in the summer here because it's hot as hell. I'd use Mobil 1 because their guarantee is that if your engine has any problems related to an oil failure, ie. thrown bearing, they will buy you another engine. But I don't use Mobil 1 because I don't need to.
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Proper maintenance.
20w-50 in summer, 10w-40 winter.
99% of the oil out there has 'detergent' in it to help keep the engine clean. If you change it regularly at 3-4k miles, the engine will stay clean inside. Same goes for anti-freeze. Its cheap enough to change every other year. Helps keep the corrosion from building up. Same with diff oil, and power steering, and tranny, too. |
I don't know about that...
I'm using Mobil Delvac1 5w40 in my Subaru and changing the oil every 10k or so. I'll be changing the filter at 5k and sending an oil sample out for analysis just to make sure everything is fine and dandy. Just think... use a good quality oil, Mobil 1 or the like, and a bypass setup with submicronic depth filter, and you'll never have to change your oil again. Just the filters, and add oil as necessary due to leakage, or burn, but also to freshen up the additive packets. |
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