I'm a first year student in a 3 years degree, so I don't understand how I can get my degree sooner. I will get a part-time job as soon as I get my right to work (~3 months), 2 pt jobs means full time and as I'm a student it's impossible. Saving like 3-400 pounds every month means I have to wait 1 year+ just to afford the TT 6 spd Supra...and a few more months just to afford all the mods to make it APU. So the n/a seems for the moment the best solution but who knows, maybe I'll win the lottery :bow: :rofl2:.
"note that a thicker head gasket in a 2jz-ge does not produce a combustion chamber with the equivalent shape and horsepower potential to a 2jz-gte"
I know this, but I meant raising the boost from 9-10 psi (don't know the stock n/a boost level) to 15-16 psi, not higher.
"You also still may run into detonation issues at lower boost levels"
I also had in mind better spark plugs + better coils. That should do it, right?
And for all the work I'll ask a friend to help me + I'm somehow a medium mechanic, as I've worked before at my motorcycles (when I used to ride them) + I've helped a friend build a 240sx, from whom I've learned some good things. For the harder things like the gasket kit and the drilling the oil tank, I'll try to find a good mechanic (who worked with supra's before).
Thanx again!:bow:

Incredible :love:

Just an important point I think you should remember: Whether you go for N/A or TT Supra, it's in your best interest to stay away from the overly cheap ones because, you may find they have quite high mileage and were not serviced correctly by the previous owner/s. If they have high mileage and were clearly well maintained, no problem there! This applies more to the TT because, as you know she's Twin Turbocharged and the turbos also have their own lifespan - the lower the mileage the longer she'll run without requiring you to replace anything. Supra is rock solid reliable but, it's always best to keep a low mileage figure in mind when shopping for one. Only problem with that is, the price skyrockets especially for TT 6MT! Rightfully so...

Another thing is, auto TT is considerably cheaper than 6MT. I'd advise you to go with that instead of the N/A if you truly want turbo power. Of course, it won't feel as dynamic as the 6MT :D If you do go with N/A, try to find an SZ-R (JDM spec and grade) post '95 - they have the same tranny and suspension (Bilstein shocks!!!) as the TT so, turbo'ing that baby will be even more sensible. Did you see any in the UK so far for good prices?

Have you checked out the link I gave you?? Lots of great info there that will answer many of your questions on N/A - TT differences and conversions...

Hope you get it soon :bouncy:

Phil! You mean I can get the modified RZ 6MT I told you about to 500HP just by doing those few things??????

Speechless...I :love: my favourite car even more now!! Supra never ceases to amaze.

Actually, the N/A body/chassis has holes in it's front end seemingly for an intercooler's piping to run through them...

Pretty much. It's a bit more complex than that since the FFCD mod isn't the most reliable way to eliminate fuel cut, but it will work. Also the 500hp figure assumes a few things like fairly new turbos and 2jz-gte. You'd need to run a lot of boost and race fuel. etc. Let me know after you've ACTUALLY got your Supra so I know EXACTLY what we're dealing with and I'll guide you through it.

No. You elminate detonation by running more octane for the same boost level, or proportionally higher octane for high boost levels. Better spark has nothing to do with it.

Again, the Mkiv TT Auto, bone-stock, is faster than the Mkiv TT 6spd, bone stock, in the 1/4. Therefore I disagree with you that the Mkiv TT Auto won't feel as "dynamic" as the 6MT. They're both excellent vehicles, and far, far superior to the n/a.

I think he meant more fun :p. And again, I'm not interested in 1/4, I'll use the car just saturdays/sundays.
What about alcohol/meth injection kit ?
The SZ-R is the perfect candidate for the n/a's, but it's rare...
In UK, TT's go from 5500 pounds for auto's and from 9000 pounds for 6spd. And as this is the starting price, these come with high mileage or seem used hard so for a fairly good one add at least 1k more. The n/a's start from ~ 1750 up to 3000 pounds for a very good one. The thing is I could have money for the auto TT(even though I want the manual :(), but I have to keep in mind also registration costs, I want to fit an alarm with gps, service check before buying, changing oil, brake pads and etc beside the power increase which is the whole point :(...
Pwpanas, what about the SZ-R, you haven't said anything about them. If I could find a SZ-R, I could also put tt calipers + brake disks and I could also rebuild the engine after ~1 year with TT pistons :D.
I prefer this instead of waiting until like mid 2013 to buy the TT...:rolleyes2

Are you saying that a 4 speed auto feels better than a 6 speed manual?? I don't mean 1/4 mile performance differences/similarities between the 2 rather, the actual feeling of shifting the 6 speed over the auto. Even though the auto has the cool Manu-mode feature, a full on manual gives you complete control and coupled with it's clutch, allows more racing techniques to be employed - in a nutshell, there's the dynamic I was referring to :p