little help here
 

Hi everyone , looking to get a supra 93-98 , but none sure weather to get NA or TT , im looking for 700rwhp but capable of 1000rwhp single turbo, witch car would be easier to work on ,wanting to build a good all around car , drag ,highway , turns , maybe driftin , i know the price of the cars is a difference witch im fine with paying more for the TT , witch ever car i get will be manual no matter what , im aslo fine wit putting on nos to help spool if need , aslo what suspention do u recamand , and what turbo ,

thanks

I'd strongly suggest you start with a TT...there will be less to upgrade for the applications you listed. For 700rwhp, a 67mm turbo running moderately high boost will do the trick. For 1000rwhp, you'll need to build the engine and you'll need a 76mm+ turbo with nos.

i know about cars had modded cars before like sti but the supra is new to me i know the rep of the car n what it can do but as far as how it works the do's n donts im dumb at it tell i learn , i just got done reading alot of your posts learned alot too answered lots of my ?'s , ok so tt it is , now i know im going wit aem standalone , n nos will be wet how big of a shot , what about direct port i know it more money n better but is it need for what im lookin for , i mainly want a highway car close to 200 would be nice but not needed , id also like it to turn good was thinking tein coilovers maybe ss , i know also gonna do internals , like pistons and rods , do i need crankshalf vavle train n head work , or would it be better to do a storcker 3.2 3.4 , or can i get away wit stock block wit internals , tires .. do i need anything bigger then 315 im thinking 18" rim 11" wide , brakes cage 5 point harness r all most that i know n dont need to know well unless if i can get away wit pads ss lines n rotors ( most likely will have to upgrade )as far as exhaust how big 4" 4.5", aslo clutch n fuel system

Agreed direct port is better, especially for a 150+ wet shot.

Tien colovers are fine.

Internals are NOT necessary for 700rwhp or even 800rwhp. For 1000rwhp+ though, you'll need them. Stroker isn't necessary until 1200+rwhp.

315s are puny - you need 335s or 345s with widebody if you're seriously planning for 1000rwhp+.

Brakes aren't necessary unless you're going to be doing more than amateur roadracing. The oem calipers with carbotech pads and ducts will do great for most applications.

A 4" exhaust will do fine too - the HKS titanium race is great. For fuel, 850cc injectors are fine up to 800rwhp or so, but for 1000rwhp you'll need 950cc (95#) injectors.

ok maybe im starting to change my mind a little on the 1000rwhp , need to think n more research on it , so how long will stock internals hold up on 800rwhp , i might not drive it much but when i do its gonna go throw h*LL n back every time , is the 67mm turbo good have 800rwhp n how high of boost are we talking about 25+ psi , do i still need head work ( port n polish or is there more i need to do like vavle train)for 800 , im sure cams n cam gears would be good to change aswell are 272 cams fine, im not liking that hks exhaust , is 3.75'' fine for 800, the dragger is nice n apexi but not 4", what about cluth n flywheel , i know on sti's flywheel aren't good to have, as far as wideband witch one i see so many

Dozens, perhaps hundreds of passes down the 1/4, and tens of thousands of miles. Ymmv.
No, you'll need a 71.
Sure
No
Depends on revs, not hp. For the oem rev limit, the oem valvetrain is fine. Maybe springs on the intake side if you're going to run really high boost (30psi+)
Actually, 264s would easily get you to 800rwhp through a 6spd.
Ok, but not for 1000... :P
For 1000 you'll need a triple disk. For 800 a twin will do fine. Both come with their own flywheel.
Depends on the ecu you choose. FJO and AEM are a couple of decent ones.

for the 71mm turbo is that BB n is it the same as GT45 , i want less lag but wanting the 800rwhp at as time, now do i need a 3 row or 4 row fmic , btw im writing everything down making list n looking it all up to ,,, thanks for the help

A 71mm turbo (that's the inducer size measurement) will provide the least amount of lag for 800rwhp through a 6spd. A 3-row is fine, but you could go 4-row if you choose...although personally I'd lean towards the 4-row if you may be going higher than 800rwhp someday.

can u also give me a better idea on what turbo kit to get, ive been lookin at some n they seem cheapy made n a/r housing size would be good for 800rwhp ,what about Radiator/ fans n oil coolers im gonna change them anyway but is it needed , i like the pwr radiator but im reading that its not a direct bolt up n maybe greddy oil cooler what about a pulley sey or is that a bad idea, what fuel system i know 8500cc injectors but what rails , the titan looks like a good kit but seem pricey

I'd strongly recommend that you stay with either the Japanese name brands (HKS, Blitz, JUN, etc.), or the best-known domestic brands (Sound Performance, RPS, Boost Logic, Full Race, WOTM, Virtual Works, etc.). Out of the bunch, Sound Performance gets my top recommendation.

The oem radiator is fine unless you're going to be hard-core roadracing in the south in the summer. However, the PWR is a driect bolt-up (only the outside edge of one oem radiator frame bracket needs to be very slightly bent in a location you'd never see when looking at the car or the engine bay). An oil cooler isn't necessary either, except for very hardcore amateur roadracing. A pulley set adds to the looks, but not performance, except the crank pulley (ie. harmonic dampener) - that needs to be replaced with either a BoostLogic or a Titan (TMS) pulley.

On the fuel system, don't peacemeal it - get a complete kit from Sound Performance or Boost Logic, etc. The complete kit may be "pricey", but 1) it will 100% work with perfect flow and perfect fitment the first time you try to install it, 2) it'll save you hundreds dollars in spare parts if you try to build it yourself (trust me I know this first-hand), and 3) did I mention it'll actually work (i.e. do the job and keep enough fuel flowing to your engine)? :) Literally hundreds of hours go into perfecting a fuel kit, and as easy as it might sound, it absolutely is not.