what about if i just go drive for like a hour but not like drive it hard would i need to use the turbo timer or like if im driving fo rlike 10 mins and come home would it matter if i still have it on for like 50 seconds..and what engine oil do u guys prefer...

theres really no reason to not use it, just 'set it and forget it'. but chances are if your just driving around, you wont get into boost, and the turbos wont heat up much, so no, wouldnt need it if your not getting into boost.

okay thanx! but i still need to figure out what engine oil i should use cause the cars leakign a bit but im getting it fixed on tuesday and so i just want to put more engine oil iin there in case

i used royal purple 15 40

okay cool thanx alot

Don't use 15 40. The engine's bearing clearances and the oil pump are all spec'd for 10w30. Amsoil is best, followed by redline and then royal purple.

ya i think 10 30 is good..
reason y i bought 15 40 cuz they ran out of 10 30 last time lol
really Amsoil is good? never that brand before
i tho royal purple is the best:eek3:

shiat i used 15w30 royal purple they only had that but ill be sure to use that other stuff next time? is this very bad for the car or what?

and i was planning on buying this for my car since i dont have any gauges in it Blitz SBC I-Color Electronic Boost Controller with LCD Display should i not worry abotu that stuff or is it okay to buy it and get someone to install it, or what other gauges would i need? or is this thing good enough...haha just thougth i would since it looks pretty sweet lol it shows like "- The color monitor can show 12 kinds of data, which are BOOST, TACHO, SPEED, POWER, TEMPERATURE (water/oil), OIL PRESSURE, FUEL PRESSURE, AIR/FUEL ratio and External Voltage Input 1-3 (needs optional external voltage input harness). Maximum 6 kinds of data can be shown on the screen at the same time. (Please note that temperature sensors, pressure sensors, and A/F unit are optional items.)" i donno just give me a heads up on what type of gauges i should go for and some links so i can buy some like whatever ones that are important, thanx

since i have no clue where to start and what to do to the car slowly piece by piece getting it upgraded

also my rpm's only go to 8 is that the highest i can go or is that only cause its stock? and around how many rpm's do the turbos actually kick in?

u can buy the TRD tach and go up to 10..
and i think its all depend if ur car is modd, or tuned
and some car can go up to like 9ish or somethin
and once again its all depend if ur car is stock or not..
my turbo kick in at 5 which is slow but if i get it retune
and put autronic ecu in it and do a dyno tune
then i think my turbo will kick in earlier (maybe im wrong)
im kinda new with theses stuff too

or just put 200shot of nos and u will be set to go:gotnos:

All you really need is a boost gauge, for most situations. If you're going to be your own tuning with a standalone ecu (or piggybacks), you could use a wideband O2 and EGT...

The oem TT, in sequential mode (that's how they come stock) kick in at about 2250 rpms. The second 'stage' kicks in at about 3500 rpms.

If you upgrade to a big single turbo, then the bigger you go, the later it'll spool in the rpm band.

The oem rev limit is 6800. With an aftermarket (standalone) ecu, you can set your rev limit to whatever you want - like (for example) 7500rpms with the oem valve springs, or (again, for example) 9000+ rpms with aftermarket dual valve springs and a built bottom end.

Slowly piece by piece is the best way, imho. Don't rush it, and learn as much as possible along the way. Also, enjoy each horsepower upgrade, and use each improvement to improve your driving skills and your ability to handle each incremental increase in power.

Yes, Amsoil is the best by a good margin, imho. However, if you're not going to be roadracing, you may not need to worry about that difference. Any 'regular' full synthetic is just fine for street use in a TT.

so wuts the difference between standalone ecu and piggybacks anyways??

piggyback hooks into the stock and adds to it, standalone works by itself overriding the stock computer all together. i think thats it

thanks, so which one is better for better performance and tuning?

Actually, even more than overriding, the standalone fully replaces the oem ecu, in most cases.

It depends what you mean by better. Generally, the piggybacks are faster & easier to tune. The standalones generally require a much more extensive tuning effort, and are more expensive, but they can give you fine control over absolutely every aspect of how the engine works. Warning: If you've never tuned a car before, you probably shouldn't use either one yourself - improper use of either one can quickly lead to very serious engine damage. Again, it's REALLY tough talking in general here - without knowing exactly what you mean by "better". Better at what horsepower level? Better=easier? Better=slightly more horsepower (even if that slight horsepower advantage costs hundreds or thousands of $ more)? Better on the track? Better for daily driving? All of these are EXTREMELY relevant questions, and need to be answered before a definitive answer can be provided.

ohh.. no im not goin to tune it myself.. im goin to get some place to tune it for me.. but yeah im thinkin to get the standalone.. im looking at the brand like LINKS or Autronic standalone right now.. duno which one is better.. but yeah i heard the AEM is a hell to tune it..

oh okay cool thanx, so i should get a boost controller installed first, theres already an ecu in the car and stuff but ill get a boost controller to start off, any times on getting what kind or brand or any links u can send me of some, thanxx

The proper order for a bone-stock Mkiv Supra TT is this:

1. All proper maintenance, according to the TSRM
2. Boost gauge
3. GReddy BCC (to prevent fuel cut)
4. Downpipe
5. At least two or three gallons of 100 octane (race) fuel in a full tank of 93 octane (R+M/2) (note: not a half-pint of octane booster)
6. A good set of Z-rated tires
7. Boost controller (note: you can raise your boost using a 10 cent hose clamp - no need to spend hundreds of $ here)

After that, you can worry about optional/additional modifications like cam gears, a front-mount intercooler, an aftermarket intake & exhaust, etc.

where do you get 100 octane gas?

when drag racing are u supposed to redline in all gears then shift or whats the best way to get the fastest speeds can u reply like showing me steps like

1. first gear go up to these many rpms
2. second gear go up to this...and so on thanx a bunch hopefully i get a reply soon