New Project Supra
 

I'm importing my supra in a few weeks. looking to make 600rwhp at 1bar and a 2 bar high boost. small 50hp shot just because i can.

Is it a must to change the stock internals?

already have good prices for wisco pistons and eagle rods. building the intake and exhaust myself. lag doesnt really consern me. putting on a T72 turbo. 800cc injectors.

one big thing that i need to know. do i have to change the gearbox? its a 6 speed supe. twin turbo RZ. is 600whp at low boost enough for a 10 second supe?

want to use it for 1/4 mile and 1/2 mile runs...


ps.. i heard that if you boost lets say 1 bar with a T66 and 1 bar with a T72.. that the T72's 1 bar will be stronger than the T66.. i think its true because my logic tells me that the bigger turbo compresses more air into 1 bar than a smaller turbo... is that correct?

Nope the 2jz-gte stock internals will handle literally anything a T66 will put out, assuming a sufficient amount of octane in the (race fuel) to match your boost level, and proper tuning.

In other words, do NOT waste precious upgrade $$$$ (re)'build'ing a 2jz-gte for anyting under 1000hp (yes, 1000hp!) at the crank, unless that engine has problems (eg. low compression/leakdown #s). Note that a T72 on very high boost (eg. 35+psi), together with a shot of nitrous, might exceed 1000hp at the crank.

The 6spd has proven it can handle up to 1500rwhp!

A T72 will have more power at 1 bar (because it is more efficient), but it will also have more lag.

im glad you replayed. specifically you. because I've read your post and your pretty clued up about Supra's. If there is no doubt that the internals can handle 600-750hp then i wont change the pistons ect. but i would let me sleep much more sound at night. lol. so the gearbox can handle it without a problem. damn i love Toyota for this! lol! what is 600-750hp at the wheels going to be at the crank? im thinking about replacing the clutch as wel. 100hp clutch.. the parts aren't pricey here. the rods cost me R4500. pistons are R7000 clutch R10 500 and they have to make a custom flywheel. R3500. around here for that strong internals it ain't much money.

1 bar is 14psi and 2 is 28psi. so you think 2 bar is a bit high??

i basically want a car that will haul ass when i want it to. lag isn't too big of a deal.

at 1 bar im using 95octane. 2 bar is only for race days then i use 102 octane.

do you think 600whp will be enough to get to 10 seconds. of not. what will.:help:

Honestly you can sleep completely soundly at night, and with more $$$ under your pillow too (instead of in the piston & rod manufacturers and machine shop's hands)! The 2jz-gte is a rock up to 1000hp. The 'record' is actually over 1000rwhp on a bone stock block. 850rwhp (6spd) is a walk in the park (again, assuming good tuning and enough octane to match the boost level). Even if the rebuild parts "aint much money", there are very few machine shops with the expertise to properly rebuild a 1000rwhp+ 3L engine. If your $ won't go for parts, they'll either go to a good machine shop, or they'll go for a re-rebuild when the first one doesn't work out. Honestly it's best not to fix what isn't broken - a healthy bone-stock 2jz-gte does not need any building at your rwhp level.

Yep you'll need a different clutch for 750rwhp. Through a 6spd, 750rwhp = 880hp at the crank.

2 bar is not too high, assuming sufficient fuel flow, proper tuning, and a sufficient amount of octane. 102 octane is typically not enough for 2 bar, with complete reliability/safety. Spend those rebuild $ here - on some 116 octane+ race fuel. Detonation will quickly kill even the most expensive internals, but good race fuel can completely prevent detonation.

With slicks, 600rwhp or so can get you into the high 10s.

Im also going to use water/meth injection to cool the engine a bit more. around here 116 octane is pretty rare. I'm not going to make it a one day build(matter of speaking.) im going to drive the car stock. just decats and a good waste gate to keep the boost from going over 16psi. just a few small mods. and then when i get out of school.. yeah im in my senior year. yippy. then i'll start really amping up the power and make it a super fast street car. the fastest supra in SA is only a 13 second N/A supra. so its not going to be hard to be the fastest supra. but i want to get the fastest road car. the fastest currently is a lotus elise. dont know what the 400m time is but the 800m time is 14 something. so its gonna be hard!

Note you can't (practically) run an aftermarket wastegate with the oem twin turbos...you'll need to stay with the oem wastegate.

ok. then I'll just go single a lot sooner than expected. but 'ill start with a small turbo. maybe a T5/T4 Hybrid. then after all the fun and getting the itch to go faster I'll slap on the T72.

When I do start going for a power car. i thought it would be just smart and order all the parts. and then after i have everything then i can start building it. so then the only time i cant build it is if i forgot about something or if something doesnt fit..

i dont know which of the supra's im going to buy so i dont know what the pistons ect look like and how the car was maintained. so i think that pistons need to be on the list.

Honestly, pistons are a waste of $ until you know for sure you've got an engine that needs them. A well-maintained 2jz-gte with good compression #s should not be opened up. Toyota built these engines right, with extremely precise tolerances (tolerances are several times more precise than a 350 chevy). Race fuel and wider rims need to be on your list - not pistons. Just mho fwiw ymmv...

on that T04R supra site i read that a lot of people had a piston 6 melt down on there stock supra.. how do i overcome this..:gotnos:.

Ime, that would never happen with a bone-"stock" Supra, and I'm pretty sure this has never happend to a "lot of people" (please post those T04R links you're referring to - I know many of those guys, and I can find out more details if necessary). However, if you mod an Mkiv TT up to 'BPU' level or higher, and then try to run 20+psi on pump gas (or run without a boost gauge so you have no idea how much boost you're running), your pistons can melt. The solution to overcome this is to run race fuel when you run high boost. It is NOT a solution to replace the pistons, because high boost on pump gas will destroy any pistons, no matter how expensive they are.