HG repair :(
 

ok so will all these items set me up for HG repair

http://www.suprasport.com/Head-Gaske...p_253-693.html

plus the timing belt tensioner

and a good machinist

what i thought i was clear of is coming back and i think its now obvious that its the HG.

and also is there any other things i should do while the engine is out, i wanna get rid of the EGR system. and does anyone know can they machine the block while its in the bay?

anyone ??? anything???

Looks good to me, and not a bad price.

The big question is what do you plan on doing with the head?
Send to a machine shop and just get it checked?
Cleaned up with an NDI to check for cracks?
Valve job?
Total rebuild while its out?

For a straight headgasket change its still missing a few things.

You have to remove the whole intake system to remove the head so you will need all the intake gaskets such as the Throttle body metal gasket, the paper intake plenum gaskets and I would recommend changing all of the fuel injector O rings, they are cheap enough and will prevent problems later on,
replace all the little water hoses all over the block, etc. etc.

Maybe contact http://www.racetep.com/INDEXX.html

I bought MLS head gasket, ARP studs and a much more complete gasket kit for a total of $443.00 (no timing belt...mine is fresh)
The gasket kit with a standard head gasket was $156, ARP's $132. Plus the guy knows Supras like the back of his hand.

The gasket kit DID NOT include the EGR cooler gasket. You MUST not only replace that gasket but get the cover machined straight before re-install. You CAN NOT access this EGR cover well while the head is on and it is a common source of bad exhaust leaks. (If you get rid of the EGR system maybe you will weld this piece of crap cover over.)

You are still going to have to buy about $500 in other gaskets to complete a head gasket repair. Along with the obvious intake manifold, exhaust manifold and turbo gaskets you will need about 12 copper sealing washers for the fuel lines, coolant lines, oil lines for the turbo, and don't forget about the fuel injector insulators, grommets and o-rings, o-ring for the CPS, water outlet housing gasket, like he said EGR cooler gasket, EGR valve gaskets, 32mm heater union ALUMINUM sealing washers, ISC valve gasket, cold start injector gasket and copper sealing washers. You are going to have fun at the dealer and be prepared for them fucking up your order and not getting the parts you ordered. Oh and don't forget about the $25 a piece 90 degree coolant hoses that go at the back and front of the cylinder head one near the EGR cooler and one near the water outlet housing.

And as far as machining the EGR cooler cover, that is not a common problem like say the exhaust manifold studs stripping out. You were the exception not the rule.

And as far as machining the EGR cooler cover, that is not a common problem like say the exhaust manifold studs stripping out. You were the exception not the rule.

DON'T IGNORE THE EGR COOLER COVER!!!
I hope I am the exception, but it is VERY easy to check, inspect, make sure it is right while the head is off. It is next to impossible to deal with it on the car. This EGR cooler cover was the source of almost ALL of my problems with this car and I am the original owner. The exhaust leak melted my speedo cable insulation, breaking the cable TWICE. It lowered my turbo boost. It burned a hole in my heater hose at the union causing major fluid leak and over-heating.
This ALL happened soon after a very experienced Toyota mechanic replaced my first BHG but didn't bother to deal with the EGR cooler cover or even replace the gasket. Probably because the gasket is not included in the gasket kit and... as far as machining the EGR cooler cover, that is not a common problem like say the exhaust manifold studs stripping out. You were the exception not the rule.
DON'T IGNORE THE EGR COOLER COVER!!! I would hate to say 'I told you so!"

well i was planning on just using block off plates for the egr system so i dont have to worry bout any egr valve problems in the future, as for the head i'm getting it surfaced P&P and possibly everything replaced, and maby even mmm i think its called acid bathed.

I'm not sure where these blockoff plates go but I assume they will block at the intake AND exhaust sides of the EGR cooler. If so, great, and you wouldn't even need the EGR cooler cover. I don't think I can get away with that in CA and still pass smog tests.

yes if i remember correctly the hole on the left side of the EGR cooler is where one plate goes, then the other goes on the intake. then there was something with the hoses on the TB i think.