HG parts
 

ok so i know im going with the HKS metal HG. but what one?

ARP studs are better but harder to put in but head bolts are easier just cant torque them down as much <right?

timing belt most people replace cause its already taken apart and might as well but is not necessary?

turbo , exhaust , intake manifold. new gaskets also? or should i be good?

head and block should be machined to a Rough average of 25 or better?
is there anything else i forgot to mention that would be needed in order to fix a BHG.

what exactly does the machine shop need to do and will i have to take the block out of the car?

thanks guys.

??? anyone ???

Of course you replace all the gaskets and coolant hoses. Every single one. Every last copper sealing washer for the fuel, coolant or oil. Timing belt, tensioner and spring. ARP hardware.

You're on your own with the machine work. Just find a reputable shop to do the work. I prepared my own block surface, I only sent to head out to be machined. Don't take the motor out unless you are going to fully build it or unless you like big pains in the ass.

didnt you lap your block surface

That is what you are suppost to do for a metal head gasket, I didn't use a lapping tool, I used what my friend calls a whiz wheel to remove the old gasket material from the block. Its an air tool and it buffed the block surface pretty good, was hard to believe cast iron could look like that. Just check out the pics in my thread, I don't know what page, near the beginning because most of the time it took to put it back together was spent waiting cuz it was too cold outside to work on it.

yes i have already seen your BHG repair post, must have been someone else who used the lapping tool, but the wiz wheel isnt that just a circular wire brush because i have like 3 of them and thats what i have used on the block in my garage. its just that there are some deep imprints of the previous gasket still on there even after meterial is gone.

No dude you used a die grinder with a wire wheel which is about the worst thing you can hit the block surface with next to 100 grit sandpaper. Not good. Now you might need the block surfaced professionally. That sealing surface is the most important sealing surface on the engine.

I used a 90 degree angle grinder with an attachment on it for 3M pads. There are many different abrasivnesses but I used the one meant for aluminum, so I was good. You just don't want to stay in one spot too long or use too much pressure or spin the tool too high of rpms.

i didnt use a die grinder. i just used a power drill with a soft wire brush, the brass one. the silver wire brushes are good for rusted areas takes them right off :)