Help, no power....
 

Hey first post here but read a bunch. I put a used Jap motor in my daughter's 89 Turbo Supra as the previous owner han the original out of oil. It all went in real well, and starts right up and idles nicely. However when you touch the gas pedal the rpm drops to 500 rpm's and wants to die. If you let up it returns to a smooth 800rpm's. Cannot possibly get it to rev at all. Here is what I've checked. MAF, TPS, O2, MAP, all connections on the engine harness for bad connections and every pin and socket behind the glove box. Here is what I have noticed, exhaust feels a bit weak at the exhaust tip. I can hold it back without any change in rpm and it doesn't seem to build up a lot of pressure. Small electrical zap when I turn off the ignition and put my hand oth the rocker panel as I get out of the car. This pulse is almost everytime.
Any ideas would be appreciated.....

when u say electrical zap..im asuming you can actually feel it have you check all your ground wire then..

Help, no power
 

Yes, I have a ground cable fron the neg batt side to the block and the trans to the body and the firewall to the exhaust manifold. All factoy points. I am thinking it may mean something in the electrical system is shorting to ground, but how would you know what and where? I also tried un plugging each sensor while at idle and non of the above mentioned sensors (Except the 02 sensor) made any difference in the idle or ability to rev.

Have ya check'd the codes Daddy-O ???

The codes will tell you exactlly what you need to do.
It sounds like the afm. But hell. It could be a few things.

There is also a ground on the lower intake manifold. It's brown and white wires going to 1 ring terminal that bolts to the lower intake manifold.

Did you check the ignition timing? Whats it at?

Yeah, checked but there were no codes. I pulled the connector off of the tps while it was running, that threw a code, so I know it's keeping a record. I am thinking the zap is possibly as simple as static electricity as I slide off the seat. I see the car is well grounded and it really shouldn't have electricity running through it at a noticable zap (slight as it is) capacity. I am going to swap out the fuel filter, as I have fuel pressure (38lbs) but might not have enough volume to get it off idle. Also will try pulling the exhaust loose at the ex. manifold to eliminate a blocked cat. Other than that I am at a loss right now. Maybe the ECU??? Where is the best place to get a new ECU anyone?

Ok, timing I have not checked and compression or vacuum either. I will. Dang the thing runs so smooth at idle, like a new car should. Also starts right up, not like retarded or advanced timing, or low compression. And the cam sensor wasn't moved during the engine swap. Contacts inside have correct air gap. I took the hose off at the throttle body to eliminate any possible restrictions in the air supply, no difference. I am thinking it has to be either blocked exhaust since it has weak pressure at the tailpipe or low fuel volume or just a bad ECU. It ran fine before the previous owner ran it dry. Sat for 2 years then got a used (Under 50K) motor. I drained the fuel lines and tank and put in fresh fuel too. New spark plugs also.

Okay, first off where in CO are you?

Second, test the TPS per the instructions detailed in the TSRM: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...spx?S=FI&P=101



EDIT: Oh, and I've seen 7M's idle smooth as silk even with the timing off by 15?. Mine. It's part of the beauty of an inline 6. ;)

Yeah hes right I would check your timing belt and make sure everything is peachy there then next make sure your ignition timing is dead on. My 86.5 ran like that when I bought it because the guy just did the timing belt and it did the same thing it was like a tooth off and thats all it took to drive me nuts for a while. Also besides just your fuel filter check the fuel pressure regulator if it isnt letting the pressure build up then you wont have enough fuel pressure to run at anything higher than idle.

Help...
 

Hey, thanks guys, it's good to hear all the ideas. I did work on the Supra all weekend and came up with some new stuff. I think I found the culprit. First to answer your questions, I did replace the timing belt prior to the install but I've done many in the past. I was extremely careful setting it up right and with the 7M it's as easy as they get. The timing I checked and it was dead on at 10 btdc. I was however able to generate a code by continously trying to get the motor to rev. eventually it crapped out enough to throw a 31. Hanes (cringe) says air flow or ECU. Toyota code book says air flow. Though I had cleaned a grungy MAF already, I decided to go at it again. Upon sterilizing the crap out of the honeycomb, and reinstalling the rest of the assembly, the car revved like normal. I was so freaking stoked! But now it won't idle. Go figure. I guess it's alll good though as the normal symptom for a bad MAF is poor idle. Now that I have seen the changes directly related to the MAF, I am confident the problem lies somewhere within that little black box. 360.00 for a new one seems a bit ridiculous, but neccesary none the less. I need to call around then order one. Too bad there isn't a Supra's only parts store where a guy could get a break on the huge markup. I understand when it comes to aftermarket stuff, but these things can't cost much to make. All the engineering is covered in the cost of the car originally. Whatever, I am on my way and will report after swapping the MAF out with a new one.

if you want,
kurt from elmhurst toyota gives discount to supra owners here in IL
i can pm u his info, if u wanna order it from him

Sure, anyhting will help. Thanks!

Curt


630.279.2265 parts direct
630.835.0122 parts fax

eparts@elmhursttoyota.com

My weekly hours are 4:30am-4:30pm M-F CENTRAL STANDARD TIME

there you go, they stock odd parts even for mk3s
and last time i needed sumthing he gave me a pretty good discount
jus be sure to ask for him, and mention supraforums.com

hey try suprasport.com or driftmotion.com or suprastore.com they all work on supras only maybe you can find a deal on one of those..and are you running the lexus afm

I still dig horsepowerfreaks.com

Thanks on the parts leads. Lexas AFM??? Probably not. This Supra is all stock except exhaust mods. Should I ??? I have a lot to learn on these, I'm old school Chevy guy...

Oh you are in trouble Daddy-O.


That's my nic for ya. Don't mess with running lexus parts.
Just make it as mechanically sound as you possibley can.

You may want a new air filter or some plug wires and some hot plugs.
Don't worry about the blaster coil or thw walbro fuel pump or any of that unless you want to.

I think to drive a supra you need a tad bit of ADD so you can do multiple things
and keep switching when you get to stopping points.

Right now I just want it tight. No leaks no mechanical issues. I might swap out the coils to get rid of all that air in the wheel wells, but it has TEMS and I need to read up cause I don't want to trash the ride. It does have some funky mushroom looking foam air filter now, but it will be swapped out for a K&N soon. It is my daughter's ride so she will call the shots on what we do other than the wrenching. She's learning a lot about that too. She knows way more about Supras than I do, just not whenching. Anyone know the best way to drop a couple inches of suspension with TEMS. I don't like cutting coils if I can avoid it as it jacks the ride.

Eibach springs. they drop 1.6 inches in front and 1.0 inch in the rear.

Cutting coils is not good. I agree.

Sweet, thanks! It won't alter the Tems I guess as it should just lower the stance. Thanks!!!

I used kyb shocks and kyb springs
They dropped the ride height about 2.5 inches
Although a little more than what ur original goal was, but the ride was still good, and there's sum pretty decent clearance between the wheel and the fender

And I hope I'm not butting in with ur daughter's plan
But u really cant feel the tems
Unless u really pay attention
sometimes i believe its a placebo effect

So might as well change the shocks with brand new ones, and more advanced, technology-wise
As the tems was invented 20yrs ago

I've got to disagree on the TEMS system being worthless or unnoticeable. I just finished installing a MAFT Pro and tuning a MKIII for another local. He had just replaced the dampers and the difference between the two was very noticeable. Nothing I would go to the trouble of adding to my car, but when driving around downtown Denver, the difference was very welcome.

thats why i gave an opinion, not an order to change the tems on thier car

I like my tems.

No way would I pull those off. Mine are quite noticable in difference.
One is tight and boxy.
The other is lose and floating. Feels like the way I remember a lincoln riding.
From when I was a kid.

what i was trying to say is,
it might help with the ride a little bit
but compared to aftermarket springs and shocks
that are being sold today,
the stock suspension, is left behind
by looks, handling, ride, and performance,

i get better launches,
and can take an off-ramp with a higher speed (not recommended)
with my newer suspension

No reason to be so defensive. I was just stating. We're straight.

jus stating a point sir,