Head Gasket
 

Is there any way to fix the haed gasket problem on the 7mge motor so it does not happen again

INSTALL A 1JZ :)


Sorry, but I have done one on all my 7MGE's and Turbos.
It is that damn # 6 cylinder/water jacket wall being to thin.

Proper prep work done to the head and block, ARP hardware (bolts or studs), a digital torque wrench, and following the tighening sequence that's in the TSRM will keep it from blowing again. I did mine in 5 passes, the TSRM recommends 3.

Agree. The only reason the head gaskgets fail is because the factory had improper torque specs. Do it right ,do it once :bigthumb:

I did mine in 5 passes as well.

Kobalt torque wrench. Took them to 85flbs.

Yes you can do the hg thing and do it so it doesn't do it again. I honestly doon't think their is any real gaurantee.

i hear its because of unproper torque from the factory.

i heard somwhere that i was originally made of asbestos then then changed the material and not the torque

Well atleast we are all hearing the same crap.

Shit I forgot to list the most important part, torqueing higher than 58ft/lbs! But thats pretty much a given. I was just listing the things that will improve your chances of not having to do it AGAIN!

I took my ARP bolts to 70ft/lbs. She sees redline everyday, hasn't used a drop of coolant, never overheats, really never gets hotter than 200 degrees even on a 95 degree day while driving it retarded.

Man it's going to be a pita to retorque those studs.

See, now thats one thing I don't believe in. Re-torqueing head bolts or studs on jap engines. It doesn't say to do it in the TSRM. And I've put 2000 miles on my head gasket and the only time I had a socket on my ARP bolts was when I installed the head 4 months ago. PLUS, you have to remove the intake, exhaust and turbo (if applicable) braces and the turbo oil feed and return line in order to be able to properly torque the head bolts. You won't get an accurate reading if you try to torque head bolts with all that shit still bolted to the block.

My buddy installed ARP head studs on his 05 EVO and he never re-torqued them. Has close to 20K miles on them with no problems.

85lbs of torque is tight. I honestly don't know how much they could really move. It's one of those things you hear so often that it must be true.

Kind of like Jimmy Page worshiping the devil.

I don't know if it's a myth or not but the sound of not messing with them sounds appealing to me. I know how I built my car. I don't know why it won't crank.
But it's built right from the MHG up. No expense was spared.

Other than my lapping the block myself. Machine em guys cause if you don't you'll just wish that you did. Even though I am confident in my job done.
The car could reject it again.

Well let me just say this: anyone that claims they re-torqued their head bolts on a turbo MK3 is full of shit. You have to remove the turbo to remove the exhuast manifold brace and turbo oil line. Now that is retarded, removing the turbo just to retorque head bolts. I doubt anyone has ever done that. If you just pulled the cam covers off and torqued away, the torque didn't go to the head bolts, it got distributed through all of the braces that bolt to the block. Thats why I used a digital torque wrench, very accurate. Do it right, do it once :cool:

I didn't just torque away. But I get your drift.