WOW abrupt engine issues on new jasper.
 

Yea so i installed a new jasper longblock about 3600~ or so miles ago. Yesterday i did one full low boost pull (12psi) and i started smoking like crazy. Keep in mind i rebuilt my turbo like 3 days ago. I pulled over and checked it out. No oil leaks anywhere, but when i pulled the oil filler cap off, i had a little bit of combustion gas comming out of the pcv block tube. Not good. That right there is a for sure sign of blow by. How the hell does a brand new jasper engine help put together by a master toyo tech, completely properly broken in , have blow by? Im curious, cause this would be the second jasper engine i have had rings go on me within the last 4 months. Kinda pissin me off now. I dont think the turbo is what smoking due to the simple fact that theres blow by. If there was no blow by, then i would say its the turbo all day long.

I need input and recomdations please.

With the new jasper engine i was given a compete engine gasket set that we used to the fullest, new oil pump, and a procedure to flush out the oil cooler. So that system was checked, a checked,nd checked again.

p.s. after it started smoking the engine had a new tone to it. Sounds like a miss, also had obvious loss of power. I think i may have fouled a plug. But that doesnt cause blow by that im aware of :)

It's these cars man. It doesn't matter what you do to them they are just jinxed into the worst case scenario slot. This is the only logic I can lay on it.

touche`

I looked deeper into it (LOVE DOING THAT ON SUNDAYS!!!! NOT!~@#$%^&), seems as though my pcv tube was kinked a bit kinda cutting off flow to the intake and ruining the vacume. I took it for a test drive and its not smoking anymore. But that doesnt change the fact that there are combustion gasses blowing by. It still sounds like it has a miss. But it does have standard plugs in it. So im going to put these iridium 9's i got chillin here in and change the oil. Might even do a comp test while the plugs are out. Ill keep ya all updated.

Well i was talking to my toyo tech, he mentioned if the pcv airway was blocked for a long time, the excesive crankcase pressure could possibly crack a ring under a hard enough load. This coule be my issue. Anyone else think thats possible?

if it was blocked then boost would be entering the block depths, it was only one run tho, and small blow by is normal

do a compression check and let us know the numbers

Ran a comp test last night when i changed out the plugs. Numbers went as follow from 1-6

175
175
175
175
110
175

As you can see 175 for dry compression test is right where i want to be although cylender #5 is dead. Im guessing ring damage. Thing is, If the backpressure was so hard i would have blown seals on the engine long before i would have cause this kind of damage, but it happened noticeably right after the race. On the last engine when all the rings were gone, i litterally poped the front main seal off the last time i ran it. Dont get me wrong i dont beat my cars by any means. I baby them unless im racing someone and thats about once a week tops.

Looks like its time to call jasper and see if im warrentee.

Well with all that increased pressure then you will have heat and if there was a backup then a soft part will go. Piston rings are strong up to a point but with more pressure than they can handle then they will fail. I had a PCV issue on my 86.5 and it ended up the head gasket was marked this side up on the wrong side and the oil drain back holes ended up being PCV vents pushing the gasket out. But with that low number on your #5 it has to be the rings if they got hot enough it may have coked oil in the ring grove and stuck the ring all the way in it could happen seen it on chevys before with a guy running nitrous and a supercharger kinda crappy really.

So you are running 12psi on a stock fuel pump and stock injectors?

I personally think that is what caused your problem, too much boost not enough fuel, but its weird how only 1 cylinder got affected.

Either that or Jasper just don't make good 7M's.

Well i dont know man, on the previous tune it was set at 12psi and on the dyno the afr was holding low 12's. I could see if i did have a lean situation in only cylender 5, such as a stuck injector, it could have detonated and bent the valves causing them not to seat correctly. Alot of things could have happened, but one things for sure, since it is only in cylender 5 my guess would be there is something wrong with the injector or wires on that injector causing this. Only other possibility is manufacture defect.

Keep in mind the comp test i did was dry. 175 across all the cylenders dry except one is pretty damn good. If it were some outside influence causing this i think more than only one cylender would show exessive wear.

Not to be rude or anything but you should stop talking about it here and start talking to jasper engines. No malice intended. Don't waiste another day of the warranty.

My 7M with 120K miles and a blown head gasket had 180psi on every cylinder. You say only one was low but thats 1 too many if you catch my drift.

I'm thinking more manufacturer defect than a bad injector.

Let us know what happens.

Well thing is, i called jasper. The warrenty guy that talked to me said its not a defect. Hes saying its my fault. I dont see how but ok. Not many things cause a cylender to lose compression like that just short of rings breaking in two. I dont know what to do now. They wont warrenty it.

Well i think im just going to do a rebuild and do it right myself. I priced myself around 3k for starters.

1100 rods, Brian Crower (1500hp rated)
715 pistons, Ross Pistons
125 head studs, ARP
180 head gasket, COMETIC
265 engine gaskets, Toyota
65 main bearings, Clevite
30 rod bearings, Clevite
73 rod bolts, ARP

total w/o machine work : $2,553

Pricey but could be a promising set up after future fuel and turbo upgrades later.

It's no worse than re-building a stock engine. But I would stay on them.

Obviously something they did is wrong. I'm sorry to hear that, I for 1 will no longer direct anyone in their direction as for engine alternatives.

There telling me im getting detonation and its probably blowing the inner head gasket. Thats why i have compression loss. Although i dont have any coolant issues.

well i guess im hoping it could be the headgasket in that cylender. That would explain it, although i havent been having coolant issues and my oil looks normal. Yesterday the temp rose up to the top and dropped right away. I dont know what that means.

My temp used to do that right before the hg blew the fiznuck out, and I mean lost its' wad. Broke the rear off of 6 on a graphite hg bloched job by previous owner.

See, I'm not the only one who thinks you didn't have enough fuel.

Run a block test to see if your HG is blown.

I would add ARP main studs to that list if I were you.

well if it happens to be the hg i dont plan on doing a rebuild. Ill simply get a mls head gasket with some arp bolts or studs. Since theres only 3k miles on this engine and its a mild blow, the head should still look brand new. Although ill send it out to get resurfaced. The block however should be ok. Well see when i pull the head. As to the fuel thing. I dont think it is fuel at all. I tuned this car specifically to run really rich. Reason being when i did end up turning up the boost. My fuel is there to compensate. I never retorqed the hg and i was running 12-14 psi out of a .57 trim ct-26, thats why my hg blew. I just hope it last till the cash is there to do this tear down.

Btw i hate hacks, where can u get one of those block resurfacing tools you were speaking of? The big ass heavy thing you turn on top of the block?

I borrowed it from one of my boys from this site.

They cost like $400 but I don't know where he got it.

see if you can maybe get in touch with him, id like to talk to him.

Well you see, he lives in my state, only about 30 minutes away. He brought it over and left it here for a couple months, then came and picked it back up.

how heavy is it again? like 50lbs u said?

If not more. That thing is HEAVY.

Even if you borrowed one, you still need to source some lapping compound.

If I was faced with your situation, I would pull the block, strip it and send it to a quality machine shop and have them deck it. Then build the snot out of it, just like you listed all those parts. Yes, I know its easier said than done, and I know the cost involved, but thats what I will be doing if my 7M ever takes a dump.

Sorry I scrolled back.

Right but keep in mind. This is a head gasket blow on 3k mile engine. On top of that they dont use a toyota head gasket, they used some other company for the gasket kit. It says nascar on it i dont know. But i dont think the hg they use has the gouges in it that toyota's gasket does. So to be honest the block surface shouldnt be that scored. I really dont think sending it out is necessary. Ill have to look when i pull it. im not gonna rebuild this thing if theres no internal damage, because those parts are still under warrenty and i kinda wanna keep that warrenty just for a warm fuzzy feeling inside.

You won't know until you pull it.

You could be right. Depends though, on a few things.
But you know this. Go for it.