Turbo Kit for 87 Supra
 

I have just bought a 87 Toyota Supra non turbo and I want to make it faster. I dont know what to do for mods tho. Is there any good turbo kits out there for it? I looked for awile but I didnt find anything that looked in my price range.

To the best of my knowledge there are still no complete turbo kits intended for the N/A-T conversion. MVPMotorsports and 935Motorsports offer kits which contain the frquired plumbing and weld on bung, which needs to be welded into the oil pan for the turbo's oil drain. You still need a fuel computer, injectors, turbo, manifold and so on. Some of the turbo upgrade kits have the manifold, turbo, bov and plumbing, but the oil return hose won't reach the oil pan and the stock oil drain location isn't drilled and tapped on the GE block.

It's argued that converting to a GTE engine from a donor car is cheaper... Whether it's any cheaper depends on whether you buy a donor car or have to buy everything seperately. It also depends on whether the GTE engine needs to be rebuilt.

I decided that in my case, I know precisely what needs repaired on my engine and it's a better bet. This is something you'll need to decide for yourself.

As for upgrading the GE, there are a number of options. Just doing one or two of them won't really gain you anything, doing most of them will make the car more responsive, but you'll probably still be left wanting more power.

Port and polish intake and head

Install a good set of headers

Upgraded exhaust 2.5" is the most popular, 3" isn't too uncommon

Advance the ignition timing

Install and tune adjustable cam gears

Convert to a less restrictive aif flow meter system (MAFT Pro is the only option currently compatible with the 7M-GE electronics, but it'll allow you to either convert to an inexpensive and large GM MAF or ditch the meter all together and run speed/density)

Weight reduction... our cars weight a TON, removing unneeded accessories can help lighten the load, making what power you do have more appreciable.

Capacitive ignition, such as the MSD Blaster coil. Helps ensure you're getting the biggest bang your air/fuel mixture is capable of.

Performance ignition wires, such as MSD, NGK or Taylor wires. Again this helps ensure you're burning clean.

Removing carbon deposits from the tops of your pistons (recommended if you're doing the head gasket), while this actually lowers compression it also ensures a more even progression, or smoother running engine as the difference in power from one cylinder to the next is closer to equal. Generally the car will run much smoother at the higher RPMs (where the N/A really makes its power).

Make sure your electrical system is up to spec. Replace old ground wires, power wires, rebuild the alternator, test the ignition coil, replace the distributor cap and rotor.... and so on.

Replace all your vacuum lines and test all your VSVs. One problem I've seen on a lot of N/As is that the VSV for the ACIS will fail and the owner, not having ever driven the car when it worked, doesn't realize that things are supposed to really open up at 3800RPM and not just level out.

You could go as far as looking into a NOS setup. If you do make sure your engine can take it.


Lastly, if you find yourself undecided, start with the small stuff from the above list. Electrical, vacuum lines, timing.. then focus on the other essentials for a powerful car: suspension and brakes.

Ok so your saying that i would be better off doing an entire engine swap, if thats the case, i might as well go all out, has a 2jz-gte ever been done before?

I'm not saying one's better than the other. For me, building up my 7M-GE seems the appropriate choice. For someone else the swap is the best fit. It really depends on what you've got to start with and how you weigh the difference in price between the two.

Yes, 2jz-gte has been done... 1jz is more common though as it's available in a front clip from many importers so there are fewer installation issues and less custom work needed. Do some searching for swap info on both on the various Supra forums to get an idea what you'd be getting yourself into.

personally i don't think the 2j is worth the money for the swap most people that have 2j's don't stay with the twins if they want power so i'd say just swap over to the 7mgte its easier and more cost effective if you use your money right just remember to get arp studs and torque them down before you start anything else

If you're planning to swap the gte, and stay stock for its lifetime,
Yes it is the most cost-effective swap

But if you gonna look for power
The 2jz will be the cost effective swap in the long run,

Since with the 7m, is cheap from the start but trying to get sum power, from a 20yr-old engine isn't easy
You would have spent close to 20k b4 you can reach 5-600hp

As with the 2jz, bolt on parts and an abundant supply of aftermarket parts are always gonna be available, since the 2jz usage is not limited to toyota cars
Its has been found on toyota trucks,lexus cars,nissan cars, rx7,s2000,
So the engine is pretty much still in demand,
And you can save money since you can basically do bolt-on parts and fuel delivery system till about 800hp

jfhvdghe
 

i am doing this same swap. except i alredy bought the turbo pistons new clips pins and rings. from what ive heard mechanically the only difference between the 7mgte and 7mge is pistons and oil squirters. my problem is the oil squirters. are they like removable or can they be drilled out? other stuff im not worried about i can figure a way around it. megasquirt or just full harness ecu and igniter swap. i would like to keep my distributor so ill probably have to get like a msd ignition or something. if anyone can help me with this id be very apreciative.

Thank You
John

There are more differences, such as no oil supply or return. As for the squirters, adding them would require more machining than is worth the expense and effort.

reply
 

i dont see much use on oil squirters to be honest so im not much worried about em. my turbo lebaron doesnt have em and its fine. the oil return i have covered ill weld a tube into the top of oil pan. where is the supply line run from on the turbo cars for oil and coolant along with the return for coolant. anyone have pics of those things?