http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.c..._1945_32487294

Sorry, I couldn't resist!!

so you think this will need to be replaced?..i have no other signs of HG issues

The 7M can and will run 10's of thousands of miles, some times even 100,000 miles, with a leaking head gasket with no other signs other than mysteriously disappearing coolant. No white smoke, no milkshake oil. While driving those thousands of miles with the gasket leaking, it is destroying the coolant passages in the head, corroding them and pitting them. Then, after enough has eroded away, it will start to overheat.

If you are losing coolant, but it is not dripping on the ground or dripping in the passenger compartment (heater core), you have 1 of 3 problems. Blown head gasket, cracked head or cracked cylinder/block, period. A proper running engine uses no coolant, not even after 100,000 miles, not even a drop.

well that news sucks...but let me ask you this recently i changed my rad after this I had to top up the resivour twice....do you think changing the rad had anything to do with this?...as far as the HG goes I am not sure if it was ever changed. I got this car in February.

You're answering your own questions ebang. If you do not know and can not find out if the hg has ever been changed and you smell burning coolant....,

It hasn't been and your'e going too have to.

The damage isn't happening in your radiator, unless you are consistently overheating or dumping rad hoses.

The HG hasn't blown yet, and you have signs of fatigue. It's better to change before it goes. Or you can do like I did and say F_*k it. When it goes I'll fix it and everything I want in one fail swoop. Over 5k later I am rebuilding my car.

Right now you could probably do it smart without cutting corners for around 2k.
Butcha gotta do it before captain ahab spots her. Cause she's gonna blow. And you may want to think about carrying a can of starting fluid for when it does. That might get you home.

thanx guys
 

the last owner said he replace it with a metal headgasket (hes a machanic) but i dont believe it. so im going to ask my friends dad if he can do it for me. he has his own shop and yes i nkow i can try and do it myself buh i have no place at all to do it at. hopefully he hooks me up hes hooked me up before. and he does do really good job he rebuilt a 88turbo supra and it ran perfect

Hello credit card bill...Bye Bye life...

i think ima go with stock headgasket and new bolts..if im not modding it n e more can i just get new factory bolts and new factory HG

SAVING for a 1jzgte or a new Toyota Tundra Crewmax(i wish)

The price difference between new toyota head bolts and ARP head bolts is so small its not worth buying inferior quality toyota head bolts. I think factory head bolts cost somewhere near $60 and ARP cost around $90. It's really a no brainer, this is one thing you don't want to skimp on.

I bet the previous owner DID use a metal head gasket. But he didn't do the proper machine work to the block. I bet he didn't even hand lap it. That would explain why its leaking again. People think they can just slap a metal head gasket on and think they solved the problem. In fact, a metal head gasket is more prone to leaking than a factory head gasket. It's the bolts that fail on a bone stock supra. The safest route is to use a factory head gasket and ARP hardware, don't mess with a metal head gasket unless you are machining the block.

Go with a factory head gasket and ARP bolts and you should be straight.

"Right now you could probably do it smart without cutting corners for around 2k.
Butcha gotta do it before captain ahab spots her. Cause she's gonna blow. And you may want to think about carrying a can of starting fluid for when it does. That might get you home"

Well saving cash is right up there, I would like to do it myself but i have never done anything major on any car...the most I have done is change plugs and wires..that type of stuff... I am a little hesitant of doing anything like a HG

If you take mondo pics of the tear down in every phase it'll help alot.

I'm not a mechanic man. I'm doing mine. Toyota said they would do it all for 5k.

I told them to get bent. I took the same 5k and are doing it myself and I now have a carbon fiber hood and front and rear strut bars and MSD wires and blaster coil and a bunch of other shite that toyota would have never figured in.

The 7m series engine is really not hard to work on. Besides it's just making it easier for YOU to work on in the future if you take the chance and learn how to work on your ride.

But definitley..., to each their own.

make sure you refer to the tsrm and you should be good