Car runs like crap, spits, sputters etc! HELP

Z'mnypit · 05-14-2007, 11:36 PM

Update. Pulled the #1 plug and turned the crank to 0. Stuck a screwdriver in there and the piston was at the bottom. Spun the crank around till the piston was at the top and lined the crank up with 0. pulled the the timing cover and the cam sprocket marks were pointed down. I removed the belt, lined them up with the marks and reinstalled. Set the idle with the CPS to 800 or so and took it for a spin. Still does the same thing. Runs good with no boost then once the boost kicks in its a dog, it goes slow. Nose dive slow, then it starts jerking. I dont understand this stupid car.

IHateHacks · 05-15-2007, 01:34 AM

Theres no way the #1 piston was at bottom dead center when the crank pulley notch lined up with the 0 degree mark on the lower timing belt cover. Everytime the 0 degree mark lines up with the notch on the crank pulley, the #1 piston is on TDC. Its mechanically impossible for the piston to not be at TDC when the notch lines up. The crankshaft is keyed with the crank pulley so that it lines up with the 0 mark everytime the #1 piston is at TDC. Which TDC is another story, but I already went over this with you. Bottom line, when the crank pulley notch lines up with the 0 degree mark and the cam gear matchmarks line up with the notches in the inner timing belt cover, you are on TDC of the compression stroke and you can install the CPS as described in the TSRM. If the crank pulley notch lines up with the 0 degree mark and the cam gear matchmarks are 180 degrees to the notches in the inner timing belt cover then you are on TDC on the exhaust stroke. The #1 piston is at TDC everytime the crank pulley notch lines up with the 0 degree mark.

supradaddy0803 · 05-15-2007, 05:33 AM

What I was getting at is there is 2 TDC combustion and exhaust it is basic mechanics. so it is possible for it to lined up at TDC on the exhaust stroke the piston has to be up to remove the exhaust. But as I said it was worth a try it fixed my 86.5 N/A but like I told him I wasnt sure about a turbo. Because if you line up the 0 and the distributor is not lined up with the number 1 point then you are at the exhaust stroke. But seeing as the 7MGTE doesnt have a distributor I figured why not try it.

05-15-2007, 05:33 AM	#3
supradaddy0803 12psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: Athens, TX Posts: 308	What I was getting at is there is 2 TDC combustion and exhaust it is basic mechanics. so it is possible for it to lined up at TDC on the exhaust stroke the piston has to be up to remove the exhaust. But as I said it was worth a try it fixed my 86.5 N/A but like I told him I wasnt sure about a turbo. Because if you line up the 0 and the distributor is not lined up with the number 1 point then you are at the exhaust stroke. But seeing as the 7MGTE doesnt have a distributor I figured why not try it. __________________ 1987 supra NA 5 speed 1JZGTE swap Tokico Illumina 2 and Eibach springs Tokico pillow blocks Suspension Techniques front and rear sway bar HKS super dragger cat-back exhaust plus test pipe Greddy Profec B spec 2 boost controller HKS type 1 turbo timer Supra sport solid steel drive shaft Walboro 255 fuel pump JZA70 Front end mod 18" Volk Racing AV3 18x8.5 front 18x9.5 rear

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05-14-2007, 11:36 PM	#1
Z'mnypit 3" Exhaust Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Springville, AL Posts: 57	Update. Pulled the #1 plug and turned the crank to 0. Stuck a screwdriver in there and the piston was at the bottom. Spun the crank around till the piston was at the top and lined the crank up with 0. pulled the the timing cover and the cam sprocket marks were pointed down. I removed the belt, lined them up with the marks and reinstalled. Set the idle with the CPS to 800 or so and took it for a spin. Still does the same thing. Runs good with no boost then once the boost kicks in its a dog, it goes slow. Nose dive slow, then it starts jerking. I dont understand this stupid car. __________________ -99 Z28 A4 6.7L "2006 LS1tech Calendar cover car" 408ci, Comp 244/248, Patriot Stage III LS6 heads, FAST 90mm Intake, NW 90mm TB, SVO 42lb'rs, Pacesetter LT's, ORY, 4L80e, Yank 3400, Motive 3.73's, Racetronix, TNT 200shot, Fikse FM10's -2005 Silverado Crew Cab 5.3L (Towing), Silverbirch, Hooker Aero Chamber, blacked out windows, sittin on 22's - Two 87 turbo'd/targa top'd supras (Under Construction)

05-15-2007, 01:34 AM	#2
IHateHacks 20psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: New Haven/Hamden Posts: 793	Theres no way the #1 piston was at bottom dead center when the crank pulley notch lined up with the 0 degree mark on the lower timing belt cover. Everytime the 0 degree mark lines up with the notch on the crank pulley, the #1 piston is on TDC. Its mechanically impossible for the piston to not be at TDC when the notch lines up. The crankshaft is keyed with the crank pulley so that it lines up with the 0 mark everytime the #1 piston is at TDC. Which TDC is another story, but I already went over this with you. Bottom line, when the crank pulley notch lines up with the 0 degree mark and the cam gear matchmarks line up with the notches in the inner timing belt cover, you are on TDC of the compression stroke and you can install the CPS as described in the TSRM. If the crank pulley notch lines up with the 0 degree mark and the cam gear matchmarks are 180 degrees to the notches in the inner timing belt cover then you are on TDC on the exhaust stroke. The #1 piston is at TDC *everytime* the crank pulley notch lines up with the 0 degree mark.