code 14 and 52
 

well hi again everyone, as the subject says i got a code 14 "ignition and ignition coil circute/ignitor and ignition coil/ECU" and code 52 "knock sensor"

could the 14 be setting it off the code 52, say in the case that the coil wasnt working properly and causeing the engine to knock <creating the 52?!?!? if this is the case i have another coil pack

ok well i have put new plugs and replaced the coil pack redid the ground and im still having a code 14 and 52 what the hell is going on :mad:

More Info Needed
 

But you haven't given us enough info to really help.

Does the engine run good?

Does it run good on the test drive??

Any stumbling or misfires??

Hows the idle??

MMM kinda until the damn light comes on
UH like i said above
it does stumble it drags as if i just lost 100hp ill floor it and the turbo spools the motor makes the wwwaaahhhh noise but it dont the body just dont move very fast. like a spark plug isnt going or like talked about in a previous thread injectors. but if its the coil pack not working properly that would make just as much sense.
that is a random good/bad. sometimes its good and will idle 600-1000rpms but when i run it hard or rev the motor high it will drop to about 200rpms almost die and then recover itself to about 400-600.

im really getting tired of this issue.

oh and one last thing, i have noticed that the cam gears arent at the same possition. one of them is 1 tooth off. should i fix this and how?

was that not enough, go ahead and ask i got answers besides why its doing this to me

When was the last time you gave the auto a complete tune up???

And checked the timing?

i have been wanting to give it a tuneup since i got it. where should i bring it, just to a dealership or something. or should i just do it myself? the only thing i have done to it tune up wise was plugs and wires and new coil, oil/filter. what else should i do.

i dont understand the how to check the timeing on a DOH im use to working on my old 79 camaro. chain driven. unlike the supra which is a belt.

Distributor cap and rotor and the air filter also need replacing. You may want to go to your dealer and by a t.s.r.m. toyota supra repair manual. They are engine specific and cost about 75 bucks but it is the same book the techs at the dealer use.

What type of coil are you running and what plugs did you choose?
What wires did you get? I'm just curious.

First of all there are 3 coil packs on the 7MGTE. Did you just replace one or did you replace the igniter? The igniter is not bolted to the engine, it is bolted to the drivers side inner fender, its the aluminum thing with a couple fo harnesses coming out of it.

If the crank pulley notch was lined up with the 0 degree mark on the lower timing belt cover and one of the cam gears matchmarks didn't line up with the notch on the inner timing belt cover, then yes you should fix that asap as it is definatly not running right. You are going to have to take the timing belt off and reinstall it the correct way. Hardest part about that job is getting the crank pulley off. The rest is easy, took me 5 minutes to install my timing belt.

Well you first need a timing light. Hook up the positive cable to the positive on the battery and hook the negative to the engine block where the negative battery cable attaches. Connect the signal clamp to the No. 1 spark plug wire. Then you need to disable the electronic advance by bridgeing terminals T and E1 at the diagnostic connector. Then start the motor. Aim the timing light at the crank pulley and to where the timing marks are on the lower timing belt cover. The notch on the crank pulley should be lined up with the 10 degrees BTDC mark every time the light flashes. If its not, then loosen (don't take it out) the 12mm bolt that holds the cam position sensor on and spin it in whatever direction will make the notch line up with the 10 degree mark. Push down on the cam sensor to advance the timing and pull it up to retard it. But install that timing belt properly FIRST before you set ignition timing because you will be wasting your time with the incorrect valve timing set.

As far as a tune up, the fuel filter is the #1 most overlooked item when performing a tune-up. And a little tip, don't bring your car to a dealer unless you want to get ripped off, period.

7MGTE's use a DIS ignition system, they don't have a distributor only the non-turbo GE's have that crap ass old technology.

i replaced all 3 of them. i got them from my donor engine. the odds are low that the coil packs where broken on that to but it is possible. but highly unlikely. so what check the igniter?

No, first install that timing belt the way it should be. Then, set base ignition timing. After you do these 2 things you will be able to diagnose your problem further.

Instead of throwing parts at your car you should have tested your coils with a multimeter.

here is a video of me 3rd gear the CEL is on and want you to attempt to listen to the engine, and notice how much the camera is shaking that would be the car shaking the shit outa me, i had the gas completly to the floor.

video

this could acually be the end to this thread, mmm i took a closer inspection and the wires that hook to the coil packs at the bottom, i took all of the old electrical tape off and found that 2 wires where either melted or chopped a little and where barley hanging on, so i fixed it drove it and no CEL drove fine so im now going to see about getting a new fuel filter and get the timeing done.

now for a quick question on the thermostat houseing there are 3 connectors on it, the one with the 2 little hoses comeing off of it, a green thing with a wire comeing off it of, and at the bottom there is a blue one with a wire.

what is the blue one? cold start?

The blue one on the bottom is the auxiliary fan sensor switch.

The one in the middle (mine isn't green) is the A/C coolant temp sensor.

The one on top is the BVSV. Bimetallic Vacuum Switching Valve.

The cold start injector time switch is on the water outlet housing, its the one on top with the brown connector. The water outlet housing is what the thermostat housing bolts to. Then from there the middle one on the water outlet housing with the green connector is the ECT sensor (Engine Coolant Temperature for the EFI). Then the one on the bottom of the water outlet housing is the sensor for the stock temp gauge on the dash.

hmm do i need the blue one connected because its hanging on 1 little wire to, needs to be redone.

If you want your aux. fan to work then you need it.

is the aux fan that little fan on the radiator, whats the point of it?

Its the little electric one near the battery. It comes on when the coolant temp gets to a predetermined temperature.

The only time mine came on is when I had a BHG and my motor was overheating. My coolant temp was 230F when it was on. Mine hasn't come on since the rebuild. Then again my coolant never gets hotter than 195F. If I had to guess, it comes on at 212F.

haha well my car was just playing with me, im still getting the codes again

here is a video of my car warmed up completly and sitting at idle

http://s40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...nt=lowidle.flv

and here is a video of me holding at RPMS its hard to hear but you can hear the popping of what sounds to be back fireing. just there very quite.

http://s40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...holdingRPM.flv

i have not offically gotten completly lost in this problem.

Have you reinstalled that timing belt the way its suppost to be? No.......

Have you set base ignition timing after you reinstalled the timing belt the right way? No............

I can guarantee that is your problem. Or one of them.

Check fuel, air, spark, and timing.

god damn i need to get someone to help me with this, im tired of pulling this motor apart.i swear i have taken it apart 20 times now. replaced plugs and wires again, also the coupler to the TB was cracked all the way down replaced that, redid my redone wireing job to make shur it was all staying connected. and still running like shit.

ihatehacks you are probably right but, in order for me to do my timeing i need a timeing gun, which i dont have.

and also i noticed that i can hear the engine at idle popping and everytime it does the RPMs will jump a about 100rpms - 200rpms. and it jumps really quick, just thing pop and and thats how fast it goes :) and ive only noticed it doing that at idle or returning to idle when its warmed up.

my friend thought it was the plugs, nope he just said it seemed like it was missing bad. very bad.

Timing guns are $39.99 at autozone.

If your valve timing is off, (you said one cam was a tooth off) it will cause missing and very poor drivablity.

Stop throwing parts at your car and fix what you already know (You said it!) is wrong. Fix the valve timing then set ignition timing, then you can further diagnose your problem if necessary.

so basically pull off the timing belt and turn both cams to top dead center?

Make sure the crank pulley notch is lined up with the 0 mark on the lower timing belt cover. Loosen the timing belt tensioner pulley bolt and use a flathead screwdriver to release the tension, then tighten the bolt with the tension relieved. Pull the timing belt off the cam gears, line up each cam gear with its matchmark on the inner timing belt cover. Install the timing belt on the cam gears, loosen the tensioner pulley bolt to tension the belt, then torque the tensioner pulley bolt. Torque spec is 36ft/lbs.

Here we go again, with "Oh, go to Auto Zone and get a crappy timing light." You get what you pay for. You buy cheap, you get cheap, and didn't i tell the dude with the 14/21 codes not to throw parts at his car, like so many people do when they go to AUTO ZONE? Why is it that noone listens to me? Oh, that's right, they do so much work on one car, their own car, and they think they know everything there is to know about working on any car. Maybe one day some of you will learn. Anyone have any clue as to why Auto Zone stays in business, and Advance and O'Reilly's? Becuase they sell shitty inferior substandard parts to people who won't shell out a little more cash for the good parts because they're cheapasses, and when those parts wear out fast, they go back and spend money again on the same shitty parts that they just bought, like six months ago. Geniuses, i see this shit EVERY SINGLE DAMN DAY at my shop. BELIEVE ME. I work on the edge of a poor town. They bitch about the prices of automotive repairs every day. If they're gonna bitch about it, then they need to sell their car and start riding a bicycle. I don't understand what some of you have such a hard time at understand ingwhat i'm telling you. I speak from years of EXPERIENCE. I'm not talking out of my arsehole. When some of you are ready to listen and ask someone who really knows what the hell they are doing and are tired of doing the job over and over and over again on your car and tired of keep pissing money away and throwing parts at your car all the time, then please, pm me. I'll be more than happy to answer any questions, and if i can't, then i KNOW my partner at work can. I have access to a buttload of diagnostic tools, and i do have a computer at work with internet access with ALLDATA. I use any and all tools at my disposal to get the job done right the first time. Time is money, in my profession. If my time is being wasted when i'm working on a job, then i'm wasting my money, and i'll be damned if i do that to myself. Do the job right the first time. If you're unsure, then get someone who knows what the hell they're doing to give you a hand. Asking someone over an internet forum about something is good and all, but it won't solve the problem all of the time. Maybe not even part of the time. It's kind of like being an arm chair quarterback. Making plays from the chair but not actually carrying them out. That doesn't work, either. I know you guys and gals may think i'm an asshat, but you know what? I can't stand a knucklehead that thinks he knows everything there is to know in the automotive world when he/ she has only worked on their own car. I work on every different make and model out there, because i work at an indepent shop. That means i see it all, and i really do see it all. I've seen vehicles that i just shake my head and wonder how in the hell they drove it in like that. With age and maturity comes wisdom and experience. I'm not an old fart, but i've been around in this long enough to have seen plenty.

wow. you need to take a breath man.

mmm im not trying to be cheap, its just im low on cash, like im lucky if i have 5$ on me within the week. my parents are the ones who pay for my gas and schooling for automotive. but me on the otherhand dont have enough time for a job. i have a love and passion for cars, i always have had one. i love being able to work on cars and have knowlege of how to fix problems. im the person who learns from being told. if something breaks and i fix it ill remember for ever how to do it so that way if someone else has that problem i know how to help them.
but there shall be no worries anymore because now i had to bug the shit out of my parents to get money to get my car worked on at my favorite tuner shop. love them 12$/hr for me when it should be like 25$/hr. the car goes down there tomorrow and i will keep you informed on what the problem was.

oh and monkey i understand what you are saying im not trying to be cheap and i totally agree with what you said. you get what you pay for. but in that case just for the future when i get my tax returns im going to pick up a digital torqe wrench at the local pawn exchange. 1??$ and i can pick it up for 25 just because i know all the people who work there and i have helped them with their cars when they needed it. oh and stop being an asshat :offwall:

:whateva: :ghey: :gtfo:

ok so i checked the timing made shur to short the circut t and e1 and rpms where at 600-650, the cams lined up with the marks and the pully read 10.

changed the fuel filter <that was pretty cloged up.

and drove it around and noticed the rpms where still hopping around and even got it recorded

RPM jump

so i checked the connector on the CPS and when i touched it the car shut off. so i started it up again, idled fine touched it again and it started clunking to its death, so i started to pull of the old electrical tape. didnt see anything started the car up again, touched the wires and it didnt do anything at all. then i drove it, still running like shit.
so what you guys thinking?

and what is this valve?
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...0426072357.jpg

mmm any ideas?

Hello from France !:)

I reply in this old thread because i have nearly the same problem on my 89 MKIII.

My engine is running very badly and shutting off.
The "check engine" light appear when the engine cut, and turn off when the engine restart.

The error code is 14:

"no IGF signal to ecu, 3 times in succession"

. Ignition and ignition coil circuit
. Igniter and ignition coil
. ECU

So i replace igniter, coil pack, cam position sensor, sparks wires, ECU and even the MAF.
I checked all wires between cam position sensor and ECU, between igniter and ECU, between igniter and coil pack with a ohmeter, rebuilt ground wire on the coil pack, and find nothing... :(

I dont know what to do now... please help ! :help:

west_side_supra, have you find your problem ??

Thanks !