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west_side_supra 04-02-2007 07:16 AM

new motor
 
ok so im picking up a motor tomorrow, its a 7mgte and has a BHG <im fine with this. i know the previous owner of it and it was driven nicely so im not affraid of any piston damage. its missing the exhaust manifold/turbo/and the upper IC pipeing.

im planing on rebuilding this motor to try to make a power house out of it. so what items would be the best things to do for it. i have already figured HKS metal head gasket and ARP studs. i ask because i dont know what the stock internals can handle but i would love to get a good possible 600hp if not that 500hp

west_side_supra 04-04-2007 11:24 PM

anything? anything at all?

dcrusupra 04-05-2007 12:47 AM

Stock can handle a good amount. But not enough to hold 500-600 reliably. But the 7M, if built right, can run 600hp reliably. First upgrade for that kind of power would be the fuel system. Bigger injectors, a fuel pump, a fuel pressure regulator, maybe bigger fuel rail. Next step would be to increase the air intake. Bigger turbo, better manifold, external wastegate, some kind of mass air translator, bigger intercooler, bigger intercooler pipes, and a blow off valve or 2 that can hold that kind of power. Some kind of engine management system with a good tune. An exhaust possibly 3-5". Suspention, tires that will grip with that power. A good set of wheels. Clutch and flywheel. New stock or upgraded valve train, forged pistons, stock shotpeened and balanced rods or forged rods, blueprinted and balanced crankshaft, and a new radiator to name a few things.

What size headgasket are you thinking about going with?

And I left this list vague so you can look into everything and pick out what you like. I already have the answers to everyone of those categories listed to hit 600+ hp. It took a lot of researching. Lol.

west_side_supra 04-05-2007 03:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dcrusupra
Stock can handle a good amount. But not enough to hold 500-600 reliably. But the 7M, if built right, can run 600hp reliably. First upgrade for that kind of power would be the fuel system. Bigger injectors, a fuel pump, a fuel pressure regulator, maybe bigger fuel rail. Next step would be to increase the air intake. Bigger turbo, better manifold, external wastegate, some kind of mass air translator, bigger intercooler, bigger intercooler pipes, and a blow off valve or 2 that can hold that kind of power. Some kind of engine management system with a good tune. An exhaust possibly 3-5". Suspention, tires that will grip with that power. A good set of wheels. Clutch and flywheel. New stock or upgraded valve train, forged pistons, stock shotpeened and balanced rods or forged rods, blueprinted and balanced crankshaft, and a new radiator to name a few things.

What size headgasket are you thinking about going with?

And I left this list vague so you can look into everything and pick out what you like. I already have the answers to everyone of those categories listed to hit 600+ hp. It took a lot of researching. Lol.

so basically buy all of these performance packages
http://www.suprasport.com/Performanc...ges_c_248.html

and new turbo and other internals"rods,pistons,ect..."

dcrusupra 04-05-2007 04:52 AM

Well, that fuel package wont flow enough for 600 but it may get you to 500. You'll need more than what's included in the suspension package, the stock fan will flow much more than an electronic fan, what size head gasket are you going to use? If you have 500+ hp you're going to want a big brake kit. And the MAFT-Pro kit is what I'm going to use.

What are you going to use for the turbo, wastegate, blow off valve, and engine management system?

What size head gasket are you going to use?

Which fuel pump are you going to use?

What other suspension related products are you going to use?

I'm not trying to be a pain in the ass but these questions are serving as a guide just to point you in the right direction.

west_side_supra 04-05-2007 10:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dcrusupra
Well, that fuel package wont flow enough for 600 but it may get you to 500. You'll need more than what's included in the suspension package, the stock fan will flow much more than an electronic fan, what size head gasket are you going to use? If you have 500+ hp you're going to want a big brake kit. And the MAFT-Pro kit is what I'm going to use.

What are you going to use for the turbo, wastegate, blow off valve, and engine management system?

What size head gasket are you going to use?

Which fuel pump are you going to use?

What other suspension related products are you going to use?

I'm not trying to be a pain in the ass but these questions are serving as a guide just to point you in the right direction.

the headgasket i know is going to be the HKS MHG bore and thickness is a unknown so far i havnt taken it apart to the head yet.
so here is the list of everything i can think of that would get me there or near. tell me if i miss anything

Air intake:
Cold air Apexi

turbo:
i was thinking a t3/t4 hybrid
SS BOSS Turbo Stage 5 Build Your Own

wastegate:
i was thinking 50MM HKS or somthing,

BOV:
i have the HKS SSQV but its not releasing so probably getting the new version. or that greddy BOV i think the Type R or RS the one with the raptor adapter

intercooler:
Spearaco
3inch. pipes upper and lower.

Exhaust:
OBX twin turbo manifold
3 inch DP
1 HF cat
3 inch back
and a very open straight through design muffler

engine management:
mmm AEM?
bigger injectors maby 700-800cc
fuel rail LIPP dual feed
iranium Spark plugs
and MSD wires

headgasket:
size is unknown & ARP Studs
Greddy timing belt
adjustable timing gears

fuel pump:
dual 225 pump system.

suspension:
Tein SS coilovers
cusco F&R strut tower bars and mid if i can find one.
Toyo Proxie 4's wide in the rear and deep dish rims
i dont think the tein coilovers work with Tems but if it does then the HKS upgrage of tems. and the dampering system
Suspension techniques sway bars.
RK FULL Poly Bushing Kit
LIPP Rear Traction Arms

Brakes:
Drilled and sloted Brembo big brake set

Engine:
Bore .2 over
JE Pistons & Rings
Rods are unknown
Yonaka Motorsports Engine Gasket Set
Unorthodox Pulleys
Hose Techniques Hose Kit

kwnate 04-05-2007 10:46 PM

Don't forget tuning for the AEM. It will be in the $1000 range if you want it tuned by a pro.

You're not going to need an OBX twin turbo manifold. The boss turbos use the stock manifold.

Hope you have deep pockets. Good luck.

west_side_supra 04-05-2007 11:21 PM

yea im estimating it to be about 8k-10k dollars but all i goto do is get through college and whats left in the fund will go to the motor. ill have around that to use thank god.

dcrusupra 04-06-2007 12:07 AM

Ok good, the headgasket question was pretty much a trick question, lol. Most people already have the size in mind without sending the head and block off to the machine shop to see how much they need to cut off the head and block.

Whats the reason for going with twin turbos? I've always known that one big turbo will beat 2 smaller ones. That's why it's a common upgrade with the 2js. I know it has cool factor but it's not necessary and more money will go into it.

Good choice for a wastegate. But then you need to decide on what size spring for it.

As for the BOV you might need 2 of them. I went with TiAL because it's good now for stock boost and I can use it later for my higher boost. Higher boost as in 25-35 lbs.

Good choice for exhaust.

If your goal is only around 600HP, 680cc injectors will be fine, thats what I'm going with. I'm also going with the LIPP high flow fuel rail instead of the dual feed.

I will be using the Aeromotive A1000 fuel pump to save me from having 2 pumps.

You should look into getting sway bars also. And don't buy the aluminum LIPP traction arms, a few people have reported them breaking. Instead get the stainless steel ones.

The rest is fine, but keep the crank pulley. The unorthodox crank pulley isnt harmonically balanced for 7M engines.

west_side_supra 04-06-2007 01:57 AM

hehe we should get this sticky'd how to reach 600hp and keep the car on the ground.

i plan on putting this motor in the car and use it for drifting. thats why im trying to reach shuch hi horsepower. i wanna be with the big guys :)

west_side_supra 04-06-2007 01:59 AM

245892 (86-87) Toyota Supra 86-92 A1 Rear Traction Arms - Pair $170.00 $170.00
19282 Toyota Supra 86-92 AEM Tru-Time Adjustable Cam Gears - 7MGTE - Polished (3 Bolt Design) $169.98 $169.98
47787 (87-88) Toyota Supra 86-92 AEM EMS Engine Management Stand Alone - Turbo, M/T Only $1,758.07 $1,758.07
312372 Universal Aeromotive High Flow Fuel Rails $39.00 $39.00
131593 Universal Apexi Power Replacement Air Filters - UNIVERSAL FILTER AND 75MM FLANGE $82.67 $82.67
8021 Toyota Supra 86-92 ARP Head Studs - 7MGTE (includes nuts) $121.08 $121.08
229017 Toyota Supra 86-92 Cooleeze Intercooler Piping Kits - with Spearco IC and HKS BOV $498.75 $498.75
115127 Toyota Supra 86-92 Cusco ALC OS Strut Tower Bars - Front (Special Order) $181.40 $181.40
136952 Toyota Supra 86-92 Endless 4 Piston Slotted Rotors Big Brake Kits - (86.5-92) 1-pc 302x22mm $3,060.00 $3,060.00
56889 Toyota Supra 86-92 Greddy Extreme Timing Belts - (turbo) 7M-GTE $122.43 $122.43
3738 Toyota Supra 86-92 HKS Downpipes - 75mm Pipe Dia. $185.06 $185.06
3620 Toyota Supra 86-92 HKS Super Drager Exhaust Systems - Turbo (85mm, 120mm tip) $602.44 $602.44
6291 Universal HKS Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulators - 2.0 5.0 kg/cm2, 28 71 PSI $171.60 $171.60
992 Universal HKS In Tank Fuel Pumps - 71gph@45psi $554.40 $554.40
4714 Toyota Supra 86-92 HKS Metal Head Gaskets - Bead (2.0mm thick, 86mm bore) $239.11 $239.11
1123 Universal HKS Racing Type S S Wastegates - 1.6 kg/cm2 (brown) $611.60 $611.60
48869 Toyota Supra 86-92 Hose Techniques Hose Kits - Turbo - Super Red $68.00 $68.00
136492 Toyota Supra 86-92 LIPP MK3 Bolt-on Turbo Kits - Stage 5, TO4E 68 (700hp) with lines and big shaft $1,635.00 $1,635.00
84869 Toyota Supra 86-92 Powerhouse 7MGTE Exhaust Manifolds $699.00 $699.00
110689 Universal RC Engineering Saturated High Resistance Fuel Injectors - 650cc $94.94 $94.94
134261 Toyota Supra 86-92 RK Bushings - Full Kit $650.00 $650.00
9636 Toyota Supra 86-92 Suspension Techniques Sway Bars - Set $264.85 $264.85
100444 Toyota Supra 86-92 Tein Super Street Type SS Coilovers - (Drop 1.8" Front, 1.3" Rear) $950.00 $950.00
46387 Universal Vibrant Universal Catalytic Converters - 3" Inlet/Outlet ID, Oval Body, 16" length $79.74 $79.74
184118 Toyota Supra 86-92 Yonaka Motorsports Complete Engine Gasket Sets - 7MGTE $147.15 $147.15

1% Online Discount (for items not on Clearance) $-131.56
No Sales Tax $0.00
Estimated Shipping & Handling within Continental US $321.38
Total $13,346.09

i think that was about all
all parts and numbers are from http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com
i chose this because i live in washington and they are in portland so cheap shipping and no sales tax :)

oh and one last thing, im having troubles finding out how to change the BGH with the motor already out of the car. it gets confusing with the other ones that tell you how to do it while in the car dissconnect this wire and that. i dont have anything on there its just the block, only things missing are the TB,3000,IC&pipes,turbo,and fan.

west_side_supra 04-06-2007 03:40 AM

pics of the motor.
Engine1
engine2
Engine3
polished up some parts.

and i dont know how this works but this is where the oil filter would go but the previous owner has put this weird ghetto thingy on there. so if you know how it works tell me :) thanks

Ghetto oil thingy

dcrusupra 04-06-2007 05:48 AM

That weird ghetto oil thingy is/was part of an oil filter relocation kit. Lol. Most people do it because the oil filter is a bitch to get to once the engine is in the car.

west_side_supra 04-06-2007 07:55 AM

yea i know, my car has been pickin up the knock sensor and has been runnin rich. so i had a gas smell to my oil. so i had to change the oil and filter and it was a bitch. but how do i work that thing. i mean theres 2 hoses shouldnt there only be one

dcrusupra 04-06-2007 02:54 PM

I believe its the feed and return hoses. I've never looked into an oil filter relocation kit so I'm not sure what is included in it.

west_side_supra 04-06-2007 06:11 PM

see thats what i figured it was, i just labled it ghetto because it looks like gardening hoses comeing off of it :)

but about getting that enine down to the head while its out of the bay. what all do i need to take off to do this

IHateHacks 04-06-2007 06:30 PM

The hose in the middle is the feed line (unfiltered oil going to the filter) the hose on the side is the return (filtered oil going to the engine).

Taking the head off with the engine out of the vehicle is 10X easier than with it in. All that talk about disconnecting wires does not apply to you. Come on, its not rocket science, just take the parts off until you get to the head bolts. Since its out of the car you can leave the CPS, water outlet housing, exhaust manifold AND entire intake manifold on the head and still take the head off. Just take off the turbo, pop that timing belt off, disconnect the little 90 degree coolant hose at the rear exhaust manifold side and the 90 degree coolant hose on the bottom of the water outlet housing and loosen the 10mm allen head bolts under the valve covers and off it comes. Actually now that I think of it, there is one tiny coolant line under the lower intake manifold that needs to come off (connects to the water bypass pipe) so you will need to take off the upper intake manifold to get at it. Wait, the motor is out of the car, nevermind, just don't forget to take it off.

If you are sending the head out to get machined than you have to strip off pretty much everything that bolts to the head.

west_side_supra 04-06-2007 06:59 PM

hmm well i knew it would be easiser with it out of the bay :) but when i was looking at the tutorials i was just like damn, this is gonna be a bitch. but now when i hear that its almost like 5-6 things i goto do man i could have it apart in 30mins. goto love air tools :0.mmm yea i need to check the condition of the head before i think of sendind it off. i have a friend who is a machinest i can just have him do it for free. but yea thanks guys and does anyone know where you get the front facing intake manifolds. or are those custom made or what

kwnate 04-06-2007 08:22 PM

The universal fuel rail won't work. Use the stock rail and drill and tap it for -08 supply and -06 return. A friend of mine just put down 814rwhp using a stock rail with a single -08 feed line. If you want to run dual feeds use -06. You may need to relocate the alternator to run dual feeds.

west_side_supra 04-06-2007 10:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kwnate
You may need to relocate the alternator to run dual feeds.

oh comeon its not like you need the alternator :) when you say drill and tap, where the main lines hook up or the internal of the housing?

supramacist 04-07-2007 06:36 AM

You don't need the AC...., delete it lose 45 lbs. And don't look back.

Very inexpensive and worthwhile mod if you don't use it anyway.

west_side_supra 04-07-2007 08:32 AM

yea i know thats what i did with my camaro, it had one of them big football style ac units. i never could get the condensor out. the ac on the supra looks like it would be kinda hard to take off.

west_side_supra 04-09-2007 12:35 AM

is there a good way to clean the insides of parts such as the intake manifold and exhaust, TB, 3000 ect...

IHateHacks 04-09-2007 12:47 AM

Yeah about 20 cans of brake cleaner and about 3 rolls of shop rags. It took me 4 days to totally clean my whole intake manifold. I would clean it as best as I could one day, then spray about a whole can of brake cleaner in the intake manifold and let it sit overnight, then go to work on it again the next day. Or you could bring it to a machine shop and have them clean it.

supramacist 04-09-2007 01:00 AM

A dremel with the pencil grinder extention and many flapper wheels. You can do the inside and out of it. Just don't shave past the inner grooves. When you take it apart you'll see the grooves. Just make it all nice and smooth on the inside and sand the outside as well. Hand sanding the outside goes a long long way.

And actually the supras' AC unit is quite easy to remove. It's all basically out in the open except for the wires to the condensor and if you plan to not use it again you can cut the problem areas with a dremel.

Supra2NR 04-09-2007 06:34 PM

I used a mineral bath wash on my intake manifold and a steel brush then I finishd it off with the brake cleaner

Figured it was cheaper since the mineral wash circulates and helps losen all the build up in the manifold
And the brake cleaner to clean up any residue left from the bath
Took me about a half an hour
(With a 10 minute cig break lol)

supramacist 04-09-2007 07:02 PM

I spent countless hours on mine. Either way will get it done. You may try some castrol super clean but be advised it's strong stuff.

west_side_supra 04-11-2007 12:28 AM

well i took it apart to see what the block and head looked like. the head gasket in my opionon looked fine, i cant tell where it blew. so my guess is the bolts streched to much. there is a pretty good amount of sludge to MMMMM sludge stinks like poo

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...0410071554.jpg
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...0410071555.jpg
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...0410071643.jpg
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...410071643a.jpg
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...0410071644.jpg

supramacist 04-11-2007 01:07 AM

That's the worst head and block I have ever seen after being broken down.

I would buy the economy sized jug of PB Blaster and hose that thing down totally twice a day for a week then wipe it down and see how much of that rust comes off of it and repeat until satisfaction occurs.

west_side_supra 04-11-2007 01:13 AM

mmm engine degreaser for the pistons and other sluged areas

west_side_supra 04-11-2007 08:16 AM

well i tried to clean it got the pistons and got most of the old head gasket off

http://a518.ac-images.myspacecdn.com...f3bfb337fd.jpg
http://a659.ac-images.myspacecdn.com...d40c0a8b7a.jpg

IHateHacks 04-11-2007 12:41 PM

Where was this engine sitting prior to you taking it apart? It looks like water filled up a couple of the cylinders. Those rusty cylinder walls do not look good.

What did you use to clean the pistons? I used a whiz wheel on mine but I couldn't get in all the grooves on the pistons. Yours look brand new. But I also used it on the block surface and it took all the old gasket material off and polished it up really good.

west_side_supra 04-11-2007 09:04 PM

i used one of them wire brush wheels you can put on a power drill. worked great, i used the smaller version of them. yea the engine had been sitting outside in the rain. i mean alot of rain. the engine isnt siezed the main crank turns and the pistons move so im thinking of just haveing it machined cleaned in the cylinders, unless its fine to use the wire brush i mean i dont want to scratch up the walls, if i recall thats a bad thing. the rust is just kinda sitting on there its not a deep rust just a very very light surface type. but ya the pistons i was on it for about 30 mins and made them all look like that its alot better that what it was.

supramacist 04-11-2007 09:21 PM

That looks much better. You want to use something with even less grit than 2000. And you want it wet if you are going to do it by hand. I would soak it just like i mentioned in the afore stated post.

So much for TDC. You'll have to relocate it.

west_side_supra 04-11-2007 09:25 PM

so the items i should probably get for the cleaning process
castrol super stuff
pb blaster
dremel pencil shaver
and high grit paper
oh and a new wire brush because the one im useing is almost finished with.

and what is TDC?

IHateHacks 04-12-2007 01:15 AM

TDC= Top Dead Center. Its a term used to describe the position of the No.1 piston at the top of it stroke.

But I have no clue what he is talking about, relocating TDC?? You got me......

And using a wire brush on the cylinder walls would be the worst possible thing you could do.

west_side_supra 04-12-2007 04:17 AM

yea when before i took the head off i placed the crank at zero and lined the markers up for the cams. at least thats what my tsrm told me to do.

supramacist 04-12-2007 04:23 AM

All I mean is your going to have to turn the crank until pistons 1 and 6 are all the way up top and then we'll probably still have timing issues.

Don't touch any mechanical anything inside the block. Especially the pistons. You make any type of mistake and you'll be ending up with piston slap wich leads to rodknock if not detected and repaired quickley. In any case you'll be rebuilding again basically.

Some of my slangs seem to throw people off. There's a bit of a clutural clash at times. It's nothing we can't work out.

west_side_supra 04-12-2007 10:11 PM

when i have the crank at 0 pistons 1 and 6 are up as far as they go. so im still lost whey would i relocate it, and how would you relocate it?


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