codes 22 24 31
 

my supra was running ok when i baught it. it had some problems under boost but when crusing it ran good. suposbly has a rebuilt 7mgte and a new stock turbo, and various new parts here and there.

now its running like compleat crap and blows tons and tons of thick black smoke,
it doesnt always start and is not driveable. i changed the plugs and fuel filter.

i just went out and got codes 22 24 and 31 out of the car. i had unplugged the computer and battery and waited about an hour went out got the car started. that was a project in it self, ran it for about 10 minutes and then checked codes. the car ran like ass and wanted to die the whole time.

the person before me didnit align the cam sensor correctly and i can not figure out how ethier. i know this is contributing to my running problems.

my temp sensor is broken so i know thats what code 22 is for. i havent looked at code 24 yet, that is an intake air temp code.

code 31 is what i think might be my problems. that is a air flow meter code for a 7mgte engine. that would be my maf sensor on the intake tube, correct? This would make the car run like crap if it was broken.

if anyone has one laying around i would be glad to buy it as its worth a shot in fixing my car.

now your codes r one thing. i build turbo cars for a living. that black smoke is oil. check your turbo. under load oil will seep past the ceramic seals, will end up burnig makin black smoke. now your computer is self componsating. which means it adjusts itelf. the o2 sesor picks up bad exaust, puts more fuel, more air but it gets worse. thats your air code. check the turbo

the black smoke is a bad air fuel mixture
too rich
oil burns blue

i would check the egr vsv and the fuel vsv on the intake side onder the intake manifold

it's a simple continuity check and they are about 40$ each

i thought oil was blue smoke. this is black smoke. the person before me took alot of things off the car. no emmisions no ps or ac crusise, ect.
what should i be checking on the turbo, i am new to turbo cars, first one.

Hey I build turbo cars too and black smoke=fuel, too much of it I might add. Blue smoke=oil. White smoke=coolant/water.

Kidthunder if I were you, I'd get the ignition timing sorted out first. It is not hard if you know what you are doing. I can post a detailed procedure on how to find TDC and correctly install a CPS, but everytime I give out this info people don't care to use it or don't understand engine dynamics so they just ignore me. Let me know if you wanna correctly set your ignition timing yourself.

Unless you are blowing clouds of blue smoke under load or WOT, your turbo is fine.

The only thing you can check with the turbo bolted to the engine is axial shaft play. You can check radial shaft play also, but ANY axial shaft play is very bad.

Axial=in and out

Radial= side to side

sry
 

i was in a hurry to get to the shop. it sounded like it was lamens described. sry about that. on your t/b there is the tps. theres a yellow paint mark from the factory(index mark) the screw and mark should line up. the cam sensor should be about a third of the way up from the bottom of the adjustment slot and last pull off the vacum hose from the pressure regulator, put another on long enough for you to suck on. start the car and suck on it. if you taste gas its bad if the idle changes(listen closely) its good. if not its bad. check that stuff and get back

I have some radial shaft play on my turbo. I believe the oil seals are blown because i get a good amount of blue smoke. It only smokes after I push it then put the clutch in and let it idle, blue smoke will pour out for a bit. There is a lot of oil in the intercooler pipes so im thinking it's pushing oil through into the engine. also no smoke on startup..

What do you guys think?

yes, it is the seals/bearings. pull it now and replace/rebuild it before you fry the turbo all together. Garrett turbos has the best of anything you need to do. it costs a bit more, but you wont have to worry about it again.

Im just gonna go ahead and get a whole new turbo from turbonetics.. I think all I need is new manifold, injectors, fuel pump, AFM, and all the electronics that go with it. Plus a good tune.. Right? :) Already have a metal headgasket with ARP headstuds and full 3" exhaust.. I also want to get new hardpipes and a blow off valve.. All this money though.. Don't know where Im gonna get it.

If you guys have any advice, throw it my way im. Im always open to suggestions and have found that in fact, I do not know everything =D.

now, last i knew theres not a manifold out there for you to buy. all the other stuff you can peice together, but yeah money. i plan on getting stuff together(kits/ performance parts) but im sure you arent about to wait. look under bang for the buck page. if you plan on all new stuff. ebay the old. if the turbo is rebuildable, you should be able to make quite a bit of money

Last time i talked to Turbonetics they said they had some manifolds in stock. So i donno..

I am interested in this information. If you would be so kind.

Ok you asked for it.

The crank pulley is keyed to the crank on the 7M with a woodruff key, so whenever the notch on the crank pulley is lined up with the 0 degree mark on the lower timing belt cover, the No.1 piston is at TDC. NOW, there are 2 TDC's on a 4 stroke engine, one on the exhaust stroke and one on the compression stroke. The TDC you need to install the CPS correctly is the one on the compression stroke. That is also the TDC when the cam gear matchmarks line up with the notches on the inner timing belt cover. If you have the upper timing belt cover off and spin the crank by hand, you will see that for every 2 times the crank revolves, the cams revolve once. So you hit the 0 degree mark once and the cam gear marks line up, then you spin the crank again and hit the 0 degree mark and NOW the cam gear marks are 180 degrees to the notches on the inner timing belt cover. So what I am trying to explain is, you can't just line the crank up to the 0 on the cover and think you are at the correct TDC. Like I said there are 2 TDC's on every single 4 stroke engine whether its SOHC, DOHC or OHV. SO, the only way to know what is the correct TDC on a supra is, 1. take the upper timing belt cover off and line the crank to the 0 when the cams line up with the notches. Or 2. take the no.1 spark plug out, spin the crank by hand and listen for when air rushes out of the spark plug hole when the crank nears the 0 degree mark. When it rushes out, the valves are closed and the no.1 piston is on TDC of its compression stroke. If air does not rush out then the exhaust valves are open and its on the exhaust stroke.

Obviously the method with taking the upper timing cover off is easier but you have to take the thermostat housing off and then you need to buy coolant. Either way will work and then you can properly install the CPS by lineing up the drilled mark on the shaft with the groove on the CPS housing and you are done.

Alright this makes sense and is basically what I have done. I followed the tsrm and I have 1 and 6 on the top. I guess I was hoping for more of an explanation on the distributor rotor. I marked mine on the dist and the head before I removed it. But I am sure my mark will no longer be on the head. How do I know if it is lined up sinse I am sure my marks will be gone due to the machine shop?

FYI..., I tried to send you a pm but your box is full to capacity. lol.

EDIT: my power steering pump also has a woodruff key. I had to shave it down with a file to make it fit.

Ok forget about the marks you made on the head. That is only if you only removed the distributor and its so you don't have to set the ignition timing. When you get your head back and bolt it back on, make sure the crank is dead even with the 0 degree mark and install the timing belt with the cam marks lined up (Im sure you know all of this, just making sure). Then when you put the distributor in, before you put it in look at the shaft right next to the gear on the distributor. You'll see a drilled mark, don't confuse it with the pin. It's a drilled hole about 1/8" deep. Now look at the housing right before the O-ring. You see that groove? Line up the drilled mark with the groove and install the distributor by aligning the center of the eccentric hole with the bolt hole for the distributor hold down bolt. Look on page IG-20 in the TSRM if you need a visual. Then proceed to set the BASE ignition timing by bridging terminals E1 and T with the engine at full operating temp.

yaeah but i honestly cant stand any of the manifolds. if you have ever seen one you would understand. its ground down to minimum standards and the welds( where applicable) are pitted and uneven..