Starting problems
 

I own an 87 turbo and I have trouble getting the car started when the engine is warm. The car starts but it idles so low that it will stall. I can get it to run if I hold the gas pedal down and after like 10-20 seconds the idle evens out and I can take my foot off the pedal with out it stalling. The car runs perfect after I get it started and I have changed the ail filter, fuel filter, and oil. I noticed some exhaust leaking below the turbo but wasn't that much, the head gasket was changed on the car. Could there be something wrong with an air temp sensor, or something more than that?

hey man i have that same problem..so i checked my plug wires and wire 1 and 6 had cuts on the wire and plug 4, 5 and 6 had oil mainly 6 though..but i replaced the wire and plug with ngk and start up was no trouble..because when my car was cold starting too..the car sounded like it wanted to die even when i gave it gas buh now i think its just oil on the plugs which i will fix with the help of ihatehacks sticky

+1 to plugs

I've been researching alot about this and I've been looking on all data and the FPU VSV looks like it could be the problem. I believe this might have something to do with changing the how the car starts when the block gets heat soaked. Since this is conected to the ecu with the air sensor and other stuff it could be throwing off all the reading during start up. I don't know to much about this stuff so I could be way off and if I am feel free to tell me but tomorrow I'm going to take a look at this.

Does anyone have any other suggestions on what this problem might be?

i dunno for sure but that sounds like it could be anything from a cracked vaccum hose to a dirty fuel injector(prob not) or maybe more, i would do a quick run of all the hoses and cords on your car and see if they are cracked or damaged in any way... hope this helps.

As far as the FPU VSV, there are 3 tests you can perform on it. But good luck getting to it, its bolted to the second bolt (closest to the radiator) that holds the lower intake manifold to the head. You will probably have to pull the upper intake manifold to test the VSV.

If you do want to test it, you will need an ohmmeter. The first test consists of blowing into the pipe that is next to the air filter and verify that air comes out the other pipe, near the terminals. Then to check vacuum circuit continuity, you have to connect the VSV terminals directly to the battery (looking at the VSV, with the terminals on your left and the air filter on the right, + goes to the top terminal and - goes to the bottom.) and verify that air comes out the air filter when blowing into the pipe near the air filter.

The last 2 tests are pretty basic, just making sure there is no continuity between the terminals and the VSV body and measuring the resistance between the terminals of the VSV. Resistance should be 30-50 ohms.

Probably more information than you ever wanted to know about Vacuum Switching Valves!!

It doesn't look to bad to get too, just under the manifold. As for the hoses they have been all replaced when the head gasket was done. I'm going to try to check it out monday and I'll tell you what happens when I test it.

Remember, there are 2 VSV's on MK3 supras. One is for the EGR valve and when standing on the driver side, looking at the intake manifold, its the one on the right, you can actually see that one. That one bolts to where the upper intake manifold and lower intake manifold meet. MK3's have a two piece intake manifold, if you did know that already. The one for the FPU is the one on the left and you can not see it unless the upper intake manifold is off. It is bolted to the lower intake manifold, where the intake manifold bolts to the head. Unbolting it is one thing, trying to disconnect the connector is the hard part.

i should probably check my plugs....car wouldnt start yesterday (really cold, but its started in similar weather) and started today on the second try.

spark plugs are probably it though, thats my guess. (to stay on topic lol =X)