Many, many times I have to re-read (or skim back thru) an entire thread to find the info.

But here......

In these cases, I'd just do it the old fashion way, and change the filter, and reload with oil. You'll only be changing 2.5 qts that way.

So this method is not likely to cause the trans to disentigrate in the driveway.

i assume its just that simple haha. thanks. oil filter, right? ill look around for a guide on how to change your transmission fluid yourself, instead of going to a shop to do it...theres bound to be one around here somewhere.

Just buy a trans filter kit from any parts store ($20-30).
Get a can of brake spray cleaner, a roll of teflon tape, a wire wheel (for drill motor), wire toothbrush, and a tube of silicone gasket sealer/maker, and 3-4 qts of Dextron III.

Drain the oil from the trans pan (remove the plug, save the gasket), then remove the pan, gasket, and then the filter.

Install new filter, clean off old gasket from pan with drill motor and wire wheel (or bench grinder with wire wheel on it), and then trans casing (with wire toothbrush if needed, and rag).

Brake spray cleaner works good for the 'final' cleaning of oil and stuff off the parts.

From experience, I strongly suggest applying a "very thin" (but complete) layer of silicone adhesive to both sides of the new gasket.

Lay gasket on pan, matching up the holes, then install pan onto the trans case. Install all the bolts finger tight. Then use the ratchet and lightly tighten them in a pattern that skips along every-other-bolt. This will 'draw' the pan evenly to the case.

I always place the socket extension between my pointer and middle fingers, so as to not over tighten the bolts.

Make 3-4 passes (like torqueing a headgasket) to draw them down firmly, but not real tight.

Remember, you have a soft gasket between the metal parts, and you don't want to over-tighten it, and squeeze it out much.

Now wrap teflon tape around the threads of the drain plug, 2-3 x. Install plug and tighten very firmly.

Add 2 qts of trans fluid, then start the engine and let idle in 'park'.

Check the level, then shift into reverse, then drive, then back to park. Top up the fluid level. Done.

I recommend that, in a month or 2, drain the fluid (from the plug), and top back up. This will eventually change out all the fluid over a years time.

This method will be the least amount of 'potential' harm you could do to the trans, and yet give you new oil.

After that, its up to you. Now I change out 2.5 qts every 6 months. It always stays red, and I don't have any shifting troubles.

Before you go any further, is the car you're getting manual or automatic?

tis an automatic. i should probably put all the info about it in my profile.

thanks for the oil change guide, i really appreciate it. ill just get my dad to read it over when the time comes to show me where everything is and help me with it. to be honest, im hyped about planning on installing the exhaust myself =D itll be a good feeling when i finish it.

Just making sure, lol. All that info would've been useless if it was manual. And its always a great feeling to add an upgrade to the car yourself.

ah...well thanks for clarifying :) i appreciate it.

cant wait til tomorrow night-ish...hopefully the other stupid kid will totally not buy the car and he'll sell it to ME :-D otherwise ill have to find another supra. there aint no way im buying something else after test driving it.

Should you change the differential fluid too when you change the tranny fluid? Idk if my tranny fluid was ever changed so I'm going to risk it and change it and i was wondering about the differential fluid. My 87 supra is a turbo with standard shift and LSD.

Most definately change the diff oil. Easy to do. I do it every 30k. I use Amsoil diff oil with good success.