Somebody help me with my car!!!! calling all smart people
 

I have two problems, I need the expert suggestions of a professional engine diagnoser. if you are a mochanic or a parts replacer or someone who has worked very little on supras please don't waste my time. i have very little money and can't be spending any more than needed on this car.

1. air will not come out of brake systems. Have changed master cylinder which was pre bench bled before installation. new calipers and new hoses. new pads as well. rotors are fine (not important maybe?). I'VE bled it more times then there are hours in a day and still has rediculously spongy feel. no visible leaks or liquid coming out. front left caliper makes clicking noise when brakes are engaged. TOtally clueless. HELP!

2. engine voilently idles. it is a raising and dropping between 2000 and 2600 and will not go down to 800. checked tps sensor, idle screw, vacuum lines. EGR functions, EGRVM works. dash pot works. It is missing the Charcoal canister and BVSV from thermostat but lines to those are plugged. they may not be sufficiently plugged. We've secluded it to a air or fuel intake unaccounted for after the computer has recontrolled the condition. MAy this have to do with the O2 sensor? again with the cluelessness.


Also if anyone knows of the location of the PCV on this car i'd greatly appreciate it.

Have you ran a diagnostic test on your 7MGE yet?

To run a diagnostic test you must bridge terminals T and E1 of the diagnostic check connector.

7M engines do not have a PCV valve. They have a PCV system that originates from the middle of the cam covers (those 2 short hoses connecting to the metal pipe, which is the PCV pipe). On a 7MGE the PCV pipe connects to the throttle body. That is your PCV.

no i haven't and that's kinda ghetto..
what do you mean by bridge terminals t and e1?

do the "ghetto" diagnostic and let your car tell you what is wrong with it...

it might seem ghetto, but its how it is done..

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/TechTi...ror_codes.aspx

bleed the calipers in order from furthest away to closest to your master cylinder

why are pple making a fool themselves in the forums today

i was looking earlier at nate and supramans funny ass posts
and now this guys asks for help , then decides to insult pple

what the hell is going on today

Oh i know diagnostics help but OBD I tells you where the problem is and not what the problem is and i was refering to the lack of PCV as ghetto. I don't have acess to an OBD I machine and i'm not going to buy one. (no $$$) Where i come from its not an insult to call something ghetto. Its just calling it jury-rigged or a similar phrase. Not trying to insult anyone who's from a ghetto. It makes sense, but instead of releiving the pressure with a valve its just kinda floating it back into the intake. It would seem better to have a one way valve on it.

I know that the problem is a unaccoutned air or fuel intake. it can start happening the instant you start the motor. I changed the vacuum lines. I don't think the lack of Charcoal canister could effect the idle but maybe i should make sure my plugs are solid.

And I know about the bench bleeding the master cylinder and starting with the caliper the farthest away from it. We've done everything you guys have mentioned i just know i'm getting the mechanics block and just getting frustrated and not thinking about it. I figured there has to be someone who knows what i'm overlooking.

Beleive me I don't have time to be insulting anyone. Sorry I chose poor words to describe my thoughts. I hope nobody lost sleep or cried about it (note the sarcasm) I'm not sure i know anyone who lives in a ghetto in OH... maybe CT I seem to remember driving through Hartford a few times

I replaced all 4 calipers, brake hose, pads (probably not so important), the two rear brake lines coming from the t junction because the fluid was rusty and milky (we verified that the rust was coming from those lines by a good visual inspection, and the master cylinder.

I bled from right rear, left rear, right front, left front, and bench bled the master cylinder before installing it. Now the liquid is clear but their is still air somewhere. The vacuum booster functions normally.

I dunno what's up with the clicking front caliper. Tehy are rebuilds so maybe its a faulty.

Please dont make me clean up anymore threads, Im far to lazy for that. :) Take it easy on each other. Ive heard people calling things that seem to be a temporary fix, ghetto.

Back on topic, it could very well be a faulty reman. caliper. Take it back and get a new one. Or you might have left your brain somewhere else and did what I did. I forgot to put the pad holders into the caliper so it made clicking noises when the brakes engaged.

Yeah, I dunno these guys seem to ahve taken what i said the wrong way. I come from a place where people are hard on each other and racism is something we joke about.

I'll have to look into the brake pad thing because the other side has the same problem but the clips weren't on right. Its sucks being in a 25F shop for 5 hours and thinking straight. your painfully numb hands and feet are distracting.

I go to College for automotive repair and i'm kinda new to understanding things so I was just looking for some help.

I'm sure people will get over it

Damit, I had nightmares after reading the above posts...NOT !

Do you have ABS ?? YES ? That may be where your problem air is.

Plugged off EVAP lines won't cause your running problem. Plugged off 'most' vacuum lines won't cause your problem.

Look for a vacuum leak at the intake manifold gaskets by (during idle) spraying some WD40 or brake cleaner spray along the gaskets.

Is the EGR stuck open ??

And actually, as you will learn in class sometime, the 7M PCV system is very functional, and virtually trouble free.

A PCV valve meters the air going into the intake on every engine that has one. The valves get oily and can plug up, which is VERY BAD for the engine.

The 7M's system has a fixed (calibrated, designed in) orifice that does the same thing. You should check the tubes and clean the orifice every year. A 5 minute job.

I didn't see anything about your ISC valve. If its dirty or has a bad connection there is no telling where your idle will be. If its putting your idle too high and everything else is good then your system would normally cut the fuel when it gets too high and you would get the idle cycling up and down between 1600 to 2000 or so.

What about checking the codes first? Or are you all just going to continue to guess and throw your 2 cents in what "might" be the problem. Yes, I understand OBD I is ancient and is very vague, but its a logical start. It's the first thing "real" techincians do when properly diagnosing an engine. Not ripping off the EGR to see if its stuck open or ripping off the ISC to clean it. I guess you all are too smart to check codes, oh yea I forgot you went to school for this so you are exempt from running diagnostics.

"racism is something we joke about."

And by the way, racism is nothing to joke about.

The gasket should be fine, we just replaced it. But the EGR looks factory. My friends who work in a shop are going to look at it because i just don't have the time to fix it. I'm sure its nothing big. PLus they have a pressure bleeder. and no i don't have ABS

I think that running the code is just going to tell us where it is. I'm not saying its not a good idea but I allready know what the problem is but its just on what is causing it.


I don't want to hear anything else about whatever it is you got upset about IHATEHACKS. Look I know you don't know me but so you understand a little better you have to realize that I have probably endured a whole lot more shit than most people in america. My mother was killed by my father when I was 3 and I whitnessed it. The amount of mental diseases from that are like a mile long. I'm by no means of the imagination rich. I'm going blind and deaf. I'm a marine and veteran of war so i've lost friends and seen some people die. I lived with blacks, whites, hispanics, asians, and pretty much any other flora or fauna you can think of. Racism is funny because of the absolute wasted effort in hating someone because of their race. Its as dumb as all the other "isms" in the world. Its also equally as stupid to get upset about it. I'm also willing to agree with some of the other guys who monitor the threads by saying it needs no more attention.

Everyone has a life story to tell, but there is no reason to have to tell it to explain just why your problems with your car are magnified because of them. If you can't figure out your brake problems, especially with no ABS, then you are not qualified to work on them. If you think you finally got it and went cruising down the road and the brakes failed because you missed something, you are out of your area and explaining how and what to look for here is not going to help.


The guys and gals that offer assistance here have helped most of us and we are grateful to them, but they can't know it all and sometimes you just have to take it to a qualified mechanic to get it fixed properly. Ghetto fixing or definitions don't mean anything here where a normal handshake is more welcome than slapping hands.

The PCV system is well thought out and works as well as the old style american "valve" system, but as with them they do need attention and have to be handled differently than "just replacing the valve". There is going to be carbon throughout the system and all of those areas need to be cleaned. The system is not perfect and many have gone to a JAZ catch system to catch the candensed oil vapors before they go into the intake.

The brakes are something that has gone over your expertise and needs to be handled by a specialist. If you have replaced everything and still have a problem, then you have wasted time and money not diagnosing the problem correctly and STILL have the problem.

When you come into a strangers house, do not expect them to conform to your ways. Be polite, leave your attitude outside and try being a little humble. You will be surprised at the difference it shows to the people you are asking for help. Attitude won't help and your car is still not fixed.

Good luck

Russ

If the car has ABS, like the other dude said, you might have air in the unit. First of all, make sure you only use DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid. I don't care if it's high performance or whatever. If you have ABS, Only use these two types. DOT 5 will airate and cause the air or spongy feel. Maybe even loss of function. You also might have to look up a specific procedure for bleeding with ABS. It's not always the same as conventional brakes. I don't know what the procedre would be, but look it up on ALL DATA or SHOP KEY. I'm pretty sure your school has at least one of these internet reference tools available to you. As far as the extremely high idle, I'm not sure. If it were only a vacuum leak, it shouldn't be that high. O2 sensors only start working after normal engine operating temperatures are reached. Before that, the ECU depends mainly on the TPS, ECT and MAF. Check those out and see what's up.

He basically said he's not going to check for stored codes.
But my my, only 23, and totally arrogant. You'll learn, arrogance has no place on THIS forum. So play nice.

yeah well i'm a friggin idiot. the bcalipers say L and R for a reason... i knew it was something simple.

yeah i got a new problem now. the inspectors refuse to inspect my car because the signal to the efi relay is dead so i just jump the circuit on the load side with a jumper wire. anybody had experience with testing the computer? i don't want to buy one and then put it in and find out its not the problem or fry it out...

So It turns out most of my car problems were due to wire gremlins in the wiring harness and interior.

So much for any education or deductive reasoning.

Who needs that when it turned out to be random shit.

pshh

have you tried to gravity bleed it?? works like a charm every time we had the same problems, gravity bleeding means jack your car up and take one caliper and open the bleeder and take the cover off the master, wait until it is a steady drip, and then rebleed it, then move to the next and keep doing it, you will go thru like 6 or 7 cans of fluid, but at the same time you will have brand new fluid in a 19 year old brake system!!!