Fel-Pro Head Gasket for Stock 1990 Turbo Engine
 

Found a "seeping" HG on the exhaust side of cyl. no. 6. It wasn't burned, just distorted and pushed out toward the water jacket a little. Guess I caught it early. Previous owner had tightened all the stock head bolts to "at least" 70 ft. lb., and all were still good and tight.

Took the head to a very reputable cyl. head shop here in Phoenix (Bill's Cylinder Heads) where they checked for cracks and then machined the head flat. Had to remove .009" to flatten it. I think that's NOT a lot to remove on such a long head, right?

The "chief" head man there told me they've sold and used Fel-Pro HG's and never had one leak, and he's seen and done a LOT of Supra heads. Told me the Fel-Pro has a steel internal layer and some kind of graphite layers on the outsides, and they're far better than stock HGs.

I'm planning on getting ARP head BOLTS rather than studs. I'm not a big fan of studs vs bolts-I've seen many good bolted connections used in very critical (nuclear) service. "It's the preload and maintaining it that counts".

Any comments?

That may not be alot off to flatten the mating surface, but I would want the machine shop to check (line bore?)(make sure they are true) the cam shaft journals. If the head was that warped, it may throw off the cam alignment when it is torqued down.

Felpro headgasket should be ok. They've been making gaskets longer than you are old.
Ishino gaskets are factory supplier to Jap car companies, and their gaskets are made basically the same way.

felpro gaskets are fine. after blowing my original HG i went with a Felpro cause i didn't have the money to do it the "right" way when going with a metal HG. my head was fine. boosted 18psi on an upgraded CT-26 for a few years and everything was fine.

Should be fine. I just got done doing the same on an N/A, same gasket and bought and used the ARP head studs. Don't worry about buying a spacer shim for the head. Just adjust the cams, you may have to use the different holes in the cam and gears, but the little extra compression is worth it.

Check the cams for abby-normal wear, grooves or flattened lobes. Line boring on a long head is very hard for most shops to tackle. And the surface of the head itself just to make sure the water pockets and ports aren't eaten up more than the head gasket will cover, and that isn't very much!

Let us know how it goes.

Russ
P.S., you may want a metal head gasket if you are ever even thinking of going to more boost, and most of us tend to go that way after a while.

It's my wife's car, and the only thing I might do is raise the boost a little with a few washers under the waste-gate actuator. Maybe run up to 9 or 10 lb. max. She doesn't drive it hard, and I'm thinking that the Fel-Pro might seal better because it's softer than a solid metal one.



BTW, do they use a thin sheet of soft copper for the metal HGs, or are they steel?

Plus, to use metal, you'll have to surface the block.