7MGTE and 7MGE engine blocks ???????????
 

hey i am new to this forum and am in the process or rebuilding my MKIII. I was just wondering if any of you guys know if the 7MGE and 7MGTE engine blocks are the same. Help would be much appreciated. thanks

7mge hasn't got some oil passages that 7mgte has

ok is that all though will it bolt up to every thing else? And is that a big problem or can i run the motor like that

they bolt up the same the oil problem is that the 7mgte has oil squirters to lube everything up better and has holes int he block to run oil lines to the turbo. but other than that the head and everything will bolt up the same.

i was asking some of the shops the same questions and they told me that i can have the squiters and the holes for the oil put in if i take the block to a machine shop is that true and if it is do any of guys know about how much that would cost. also i heard that the oil pump is different but i can that oil pump of the turbo motor right? thanks guys:)

For some reason, I understand that the connecting rods are the biggest difference. I don't know why, but I understand that they have oil holes in them to lube the underside of the piston. I understand why, but I had a 22R Celica engine and the rods had those holes, so I don't know why they would exclude them from the N/A engine. I really don't know, but I heard that and if so that is a major difference. The other part about the different oil galleries I don't think are true. I know the block has a few plugs in the oil gallies and one is for feeding the turbo. There is a return plug in the oil pan already, at least on my 87 N/A. I also believe the pumps are the same but that is easily found out by asking to get the part numbers and see if each calls for a different number or not, I guess the same with the rods for that matter.


I can see rods being different but not a whole block, but Toyota does have a lot of money to spend on these things so maybe someone else knows for sure.

Russ

o so the oil holes are not on the block they are on the connecting rods. could i just buy the robs and have them installed? and what would happen if ran my engin with out these extra oil parts what if i just ran the turbo with the regular n/a block? would i blow my motor or would it not make that much of a difference. And another question would it just be easyer to just do a full motor swap from the turbo to the n/a motor?

Check the FAQs section for the thread on 7mge to 7mgte conversion. Much of the above dialog/posts have some errors and omissions.
i.e.: all connecting rods in every engine have holes in them to squirt/release some oil to lubricate the cylinder walls...true.

Well I was curious about the extra oiling, so here is part of an article that mentions that.



"The turbo unit is a Toyota-made component with a mechanical wastegate that limits maximum boost to 6.8 psi. To help control heat buildup, both coolant and engine oil are circulated through the housing. The presence of an air-to-air intercooler -- also a first for Toyota -- enhances the density of the incoming charge. To further assist heat dissipation, the Turbo model is also fitted with a remote oil cooler and has individual nozzles in the cylinder block that spray oil on the piston skirts. The cam timing has been tweaked a trifle. The only other significant internal change is the installation of a new set of pistons, which lowers the compressions ratio from 9.2:1 to 8.4:1."

So there you go on part of the differences.

Russ

thanks russ for the artical. So would it be easyer to just do a full motor swap from a turbo to a N/A instead to having the block machined and all that. Also if thats the case is the wireing harness the same?

I think there are differences, like 2 knock sensors, boost sensors and I think an even different air flow meter. I know my N/A and turbo 87 models have different afm's. Just to name a few. I know there are more in depth postings here somewhere.

Russ

Just FYI the reason i posted the tread is because i have a black 91 MKIII N/A and i was rebuilding the motor when my house got flooded out (I only had the car 2 weeks and the valve stem broke i was told it was due to overheating thats why the rebuild). The water was half way up my door and my interior is messed up. so i was looking for another shell, i found one for 1500 its a 91 turbo MKIII but the guy broke one of his piston rods. So i was asking about the blocks. what do you guys think about buying his shell? the car is in great shape just the block is messed up. help about this much appreciated. thanks:)

So russ you have both a turbo and non turbo. what would you recammend i do. about this situation

IF the turbo block didn't receive any internal damage then I would just go with that package, car and all. Pull the engine and take it apart. If you aren't qualified to make sure that engine is sound enough for a rebuild then let a shop make that determination. If a rod broke, then to me that means it probably spun a bearing and got hot and snapped the rod. Usually the broken part or parts cause the damage from beating around, like a hole or cracked block. If the block is salvagable then get it rebuilt or have the machine shop machine the parts and rebuild it yourself.

Get ARP rod bolts and unless the cylinders are new or almost new, get it bored and deck the block and mill the head some to make sure they are perfectly flat, then DEFINATELY go with a metal head gasket and ARP head studs. With those things done you can make some serious and reliable horsepower.

Check out both heads. See which one has the best looking water jackets/pockets under the head. They are both the same except the cam profiles are a little different. Also look at the cam journals and see which one has the best looking journals. This is a weak spot as far as having cam journals that are clean and having a cam bearing surface that is not etched. If they are both good then go with the turbo. If the N/A is better then swap the cams and use it.

I know there is more but go with these things for a starter.

Russ

the wiring harness and ecu are different. there shouldnt be any problem usign the n/a block at low boost...as long as you get an oil cooler. ive also seen seperate oil coolers/tanks for superchargers, maybe you could use one of those? it comes with lines a cooler and a pump. that way you never even need to tap into the block or heat up the engine oil. also the lower compression pistons help a lot to prevent detonation. about 8:1 would be perfect if you can find those. Im sure the motor doesnt have an oiling problem, my motor has 186k miles on it and it still has about 28-30 psi of oil pressure once its warm. lol.

You are right about the oiling systems in the engines, they are good. The thing with the oil squirters in the turbo engine is that they are used for cooling the pistons even more than the oil holes in the rods. The cooler and the lines help keep the oil cooler ever so slightly and really are there to help transfer some of the heat from the pistons under long boosts or hard boosts.

Use a synthetic oil in the engine and that will help too. I try to use the old 10 psi per 1000 rpms guage with oil pressures. Everyday driver cars usually don't quite make it, but should be close. A manual guage is best for keeping track of that.

Suprra girl told of an N/A with a turbo and stock N/A compression. Just keep the max boost down a little more. Instead of 15, go for 8. The N/A revs up so much quicker because of the compresion, but I just don't know if the stock N/A pistons can handle the abuse. Maybe a quality aftermarket piston, but most go for lower initial compression, but it is not a rule. More compression equals more power, just watch for detonation and use very good fuel and make sure your knock sensors are working. That is why the turbo engine has 2 of them and the N/A only has 1.

Russ

So since the turbo block more oil valves what do people do that do bolt on turbos to there n/a blocks? how do they get more oil cooling? Also one of you guys said that both n/a and turbo motors have the oil squirters just one hase more than the other?