Rod knock??

DarkRaiderz · 02-24-2006, 08:49 PM

I Should Be Getting My Car Back Today . .. I Had A Rod Knock Also My Car Was Drivable Besides The Loud Ass Sledge Hamer Noise Coming From The Engine =) H E He Well I Got A Mech Install Crank Kit New Block And I Was Set . . . .=) I Saw The Old Block Some Parts Werent Even Working He Said Maybe 1 Or 2 Rds Of The Engine Was Not Working .....

Well I Paid A $800 For The Services That Includes Part And All This Other Shit New Clutch N Stuff

rnoswal · 02-25-2006, 04:00 PM

If you are talking about just driving it so you can get it to a mechanic and it still runs then I would do it. Provided you don't push the engine and make sure the oil level is up with some 50 wt oil. You already have metal everywhere in the engine so I wouldn't worry about that part. It will all be cleaned when you have it rebuilt. You might want to replace the oil filter while you are at it.

Again, this is only to get you to a place to fix the engine, NOT for normal driving around at all. You should trailor it, but if you have to drive it then go slow. You just don't want that rod knock to break the connecting rod and then put a hole in the side of the block. Worse case with good block is new crank, rods and pistons, but many times and machine shop can just grind the crank and save that. It will probably have to be bored out so new pistons and rings, but even the connecting rod can be saved if it hasn't turned blue do to heat.

It is all worth it if the rest of the car is in pretty good shape. The engine should last a very long time after rebuild if the water and oil are kept up with.

Let us know how it goes.

Russ

02-24-2006, 08:49 PM	#1
DarkRaiderz Stock Join Date: Jun 2005 Posts: 26	Rod Knock I Should Be Getting My Car Back Today . .. I Had A Rod Knock Also My Car Was Drivable Besides The Loud Ass Sledge Hamer Noise Coming From The Engine =) H E He Well I Got A Mech Install Crank Kit New Block And I Was Set . . . .=) I Saw The Old Block Some Parts Werent Even Working He Said Maybe 1 Or 2 Rds Of The Engine Was Not Working ..... Well I Paid A $800 For The Services That Includes Part And All This Other Shit New Clutch N Stuff

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02-25-2006, 04:00 PM	#2
rnoswal Lexus & 550's Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Bossier City LA Posts: 556	If you are talking about just driving it so you can get it to a mechanic and it still runs then I would do it. Provided you don't push the engine and make sure the oil level is up with some 50 wt oil. You already have metal everywhere in the engine so I wouldn't worry about that part. It will all be cleaned when you have it rebuilt. You might want to replace the oil filter while you are at it. Again, this is only to get you to a place to fix the engine, NOT for normal driving around at all. You should trailor it, but if you have to drive it then go slow. You just don't want that rod knock to break the connecting rod and then put a hole in the side of the block. Worse case with good block is new crank, rods and pistons, but many times and machine shop can just grind the crank and save that. It will probably have to be bored out so new pistons and rings, but even the connecting rod can be saved if it hasn't turned blue do to heat. It is all worth it if the rest of the car is in pretty good shape. The engine should last a very long time after rebuild if the water and oil are kept up with. Let us know how it goes. Russ