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-   -   need help replacing 89 supra front and rear brake pads (http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/mkiii-supra/3654-need-help-replacing-89-supra-front-and-rear-brake-pads.html)

89supra323 02-22-2006 05:12 PM

need help replacing 89 supra front and rear brake pads
 
can someone please give me info on how 2 replace my brake pads.it probably sounds stupid but im only 18 and i want 2 learn how to do all the maintnance on my car myself. thank you.

TONY! 02-22-2006 07:28 PM

Well, that is explained in the TSRM:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/librar.../br/BR_01.html


Off the top of my head...

First crack the lugs loose
Jack the car
Take the wheel off
For the front--remove the brake hose from where it is mounted (I think it is a 10mm?)
Unbolt the the lower part of the caliper from the bracket
Lift the caliper up and then slide if off
Remove brake pads
Apply Brake Quiet to the backside of the pads, NOT the friction side (this keeps them from squeeling)
Insert pads

The rest is the reverse of taking them off.

At least that is one version from memory...

mrnickleye 02-23-2006 12:34 AM

And a little more.
 
Also, before putting the caliper back down on the new pads, you will have to use some very big channel lock pliers (or a big 'c' clamp) to squeeze the caliper piston all the way in.

IMPORTANT....
You should crack open the air bleed screw to do this, to let the fluid release out so the piston will go in. The reason for this is to NOT force the fluid back up the line, which may send debri into the antilock brake solenoids, and/or master cylinder.

NOTE....
Also, do not ever let the caliper hang by the flex line. It can crack the inside of it, and cause a NO brakes situation (and/or leak).

If you ever have the caliper all the way unbolted, use a coat hanger to wire it up on the chassis so you don't damage the line.

Note...me, I've only done 500+ brake jobs.

Also....for nice hands, better hours, more $$, ...become a doctor or lawyer (like Waylon Jennings said, "mommas, don't let your babies grow up to be cowboys, let 'em be Drs. and lawyers and such".)
Its too late for me, I'm a cowboy !

suprra_girl 02-23-2006 12:51 AM

ohhhhhhhh so you mean when i took my hubs apart etc and just let me calipers hang around that's a bad thing? LOL
well they don't leak yet :p
guess it's an excuse to get the pretty braided lines then ;)

i never gave it a thought about backing in the cylinder with the bleed nipple cracked, my poor abs lol

heh we all learn something everyday :)

mrnickleye 02-23-2006 02:05 AM

ABS cars should be xtra careful
 
I have ABS. It works too, cause its come on a few times when I had to stop quick on a bit of a slippery surface.

I pray I never have a problem with it. Diagnosing the fault, and then pinpointing the exact part needed can be very time consuming, and just plain PITA. And possibly very expensive.

I like everything to work as it was designed, but in case I have an ABS problem, and it costs alot to fix, I'll probably unplug it.

The brakes will work like a car that didn't come with ABS, so safety is still good.

tyron 02-23-2006 02:58 AM

How much exactly is a full brake job? and are parts easy to come by?

thnx

dcrusupra 02-23-2006 03:01 AM

Parts are easy. I payed about 400 for plain brembo rotors, calipers, pads, brake lines (rubber), and a master cylinder from a junkyard. Just for the front tho. Haven't done the rears. Sears wanted 880 to get the parts and install everything. Rip off like crazy so i took it into my own hands.

ebang 05-22-2007 08:15 PM

""Off the top of my head...

First crack the lugs loose
Jack the car
Take the wheel off
For the front--remove the brake hose from where it is mounted (I think it is a 10mm?)
Unbolt the the lower part of the caliper from the bracket
Lift the caliper up and then slide if off
Remove brake pads
Apply Brake Quiet to the backside of the pads, NOT the friction side (this keeps them from squeeling)
Insert pads

The rest is the reverse of taking them off.
At least that is one version from memory""...



Ok I am trying to change the brake pads and I got the hose bracket bolts off and the caliper bolt off the front but the caliper will not come off...I dont want to pull too hard and rip the hose....how do I get it off??

mrnickleye 05-23-2007 01:44 AM

If you are JUST changing the pads, you just take the bottom bolt out, and swing the caliper up.

If you are gonna remove the rotor, you then have to take the 2 bolts out that hold the caliper mount bracket.

mattfurlani 05-24-2007 02:27 PM

I bought loaded calipers instead of trying to redo all the cylinders. I found something funny. You can accdentally (by not readint the big 'r' and 'l' on the caliper) put them on upside down in the front.
Needless tosay it took me many days to figure itout.

I'll never under estimate my own stupidity again.

mrnickleye 05-24-2007 03:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mattfurlani
I bought loaded calipers instead of trying to redo all the cylinders. I found something funny. You can accdentally (by not readint the big 'r' and 'l' on the caliper) put them on upside down in the front.
Needless tosay it took me many days to figure itout.

I'll never under estimate my own stupidity again.

This was not known, and made me laugh out loud !

mattfurlani 05-24-2007 03:44 PM

this was a non abs type too.. perhaps that was partially the problem

dannydavi 05-24-2007 06:54 PM

well if your just replacing the break 'pads' then you can get them all at your local parts store for under 100 bucks. then it's as simple as they said, you take off the wheel, loosen the lower caliper bolt, twist up, remove old pads, depress caliper with c clamp or channel locks, might want to release the bleeder screw, put new pads in, place over rotor, tighten caliper bolt, then test them bad boys.

ebang 05-24-2007 07:14 PM

it's not always that easy.......I removed the wheel and the lower caliper bolt...but the caliper would not budge (slide up)...seems that the top bolt that is supposed to swivel was seized up...I had to hammer the caliper up and take the whole assembly off...then again hammer the caliper off the part the holds the pads on the rotors...grease all parts and put back together...( oh yeah had to get new top caliper bolts cuz the hammering bent the old ones)..this was for both sides...now i had to bleed them...well the bleeder screws were rusted to hell and both broke off...removed all parts again and drilled off the broken bleeder screws...made sure the thread were fine...one was good and tapped the other. I ordered new bleeder screws and will be back at it again tonight...

dannydavi 05-24-2007 07:16 PM

man that must have been one dirty brake system, if all those things were seized and breaking, that sucks, well looks like your handling it just fine by replacing all neccessary things. good luck.

ebang 05-24-2007 07:22 PM

yeah it is something alright!!...it is going to be three afternoons with a total of 15hours and hopefully I can get the 2 front ones done....then it is time for the back...lol....I just got this car in February it was bought as is so alot of work is needed

mattfurlani 05-25-2007 12:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ebang
yeah it is something alright!!...it is going to be three afternoons with a total of 15hours and hopefully I can get the 2 front ones done....then it is time for the back...lol....I just got this car in February it was bought as is so alot of work is needed

do you have abs?

I replaced almost everything on my car with no lift and it took me like 10 hours...

Also

NEVER BUY THE 10mm Flare wrench from NAPA

ITs shitty... I found that out the hard way...

part of my gas tank shield is missing


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