Help needed after bhg
 

Hey All,

Happy to be on the forum here, hoping someone can offer some advice. 87 mk3 7mge, r154 swap. Put back together after bhg, car sat for 6 yrs waiting for me to get to it. Will fire with ether, but not on it's own fuel. Replaced injectors as i thought they could be clogged beyond help. Seller insisted that the ones I purchased were correct, but resistance reading is way off. My old ones read 2.4, Haynes manual gives specs as 1.5 - 3.0, new ones are reading 5.0. They said that all if theirs read 4-5. I'm not sure what else to look into. Jumped the diagnostic port to ensure pump is working (was replaced a few years ago anyway). Also, with the new injectors on, after cranking, even with key off, it sounds like at least one injector is constantly spraying fuel into cylinder, until I pull efi fuse. I'm about to just take my old injectors to a shop to see if they can clean them out on the bench.

It sounds like you're approaching the problem. In the past I've cooked up a homemade single injector cleaner rig using a electrical plug cut from an old harness and a piece of clear hose that fit over the injector fuel inlet. The clear hose was several inches long with a plug in the opposite end that had a hole cut in it to allow spray tip from a can of carb cleaner to slightly pressurize the hose above the fuel inlet. I pulsed the injector using a 9V battery and a proper switch (not bare wires). You could test your injectors individually by momentarily energizing them and listening for the click, but I would use a harness plug on the back of the injector so you don't arc electricity. Do this far away from gasoline vapors or you could have a fire. After opening up the fuel system, I always check for leaks in the copper washer connections by pressurizing the fuel system by jumpering the diagnostic block to hear the fuel flowing without cranking or running the engine. Those copper washers should be replaced every time because they get harder with every tightening and lose their ability to seal. Lubricate the fuel rail rubber O-rings when installing with a drop of gas or mineral oil so they don't tear.

I know this is kind of late, but you don't need to replace copper washers. To re-use them, heat them up till they become cherry red, then cool them down either by letting them sit in the air, or dunking them into water. This will anneal them, allowing them to become soft enough to form a seal again. The bonus of this is if you don't have a blowtorch or heat tools for whatever reason, you can just use your kitchen stove.