Hello again, need some help please.

Lopt · 09-27-2014, 10:38 PM

Hi everyone. So I found out that my 7mge had a headgasket leak. So I took it upon myself to fix it for a fraction of the cost instead of taking it to a mechanic. hks headgasket, and apr bolts <3

So far it's been a great learning experience, however it's also been terribly frustrating. I can't get her to start since doing the work..

My friend and I have been doing trouble shooting on and off for about two months now and we're at a loss. She is throwing a code 41 and a 51, but I don't think those will prevent her from actually starting up.

The starter is good, the cap and rotor are good, wires are good, she has spark, fuel and air. I'm pretty darn sure i've got all the vacuum lines and the wiring harness in the right spots..

She's strong.. she wants to start, but something is preventing it and I'm about done and ready to tow her to a shop, but I really don't want to.. please help revive her.

Busted Knuckles · 09-28-2014, 01:13 PM

First, double-check both your valve timing and your ignition timing. Either or both significantly off would cause a no-start issue. Then, check for fuel and injector pulsing.

btwilson86 · 09-28-2014, 03:17 PM

I agree with Busted Knuckles. If you had taken your distributor out during the project, your ignition timing could be off. I've made the mistake once of putting my dizzy in 180? out, took me a few days to figure that one out.

Lopt · 09-29-2014, 10:00 PM

Alright, I appreciate the little bits of feedback so far, but I am pretty sure the timing is good.. however here are a couple videos of what my friend and I have so far.

This first one is showing you what we've done to get the timing right.
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B5Lc...ZwaG1JMEU/edit

this second one is the vehicle trying to turn over but not getting anywhere..
Maybe there's something I'm not hearing that others can point out.. but. I'm not sure.
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B5Lc...V3cFI1Nms/edit

btwilson86 · 09-30-2014, 02:19 AM

Alright, I don't think its a timing issue anymore- that all looks okay thanks to your videos.

What have you done to confirm you're getting fuel? Have you tried starting with the B+ and FP pins connected in the diagnostic box?

Lopt · 09-30-2014, 04:24 AM

Thanks for the reply,

For the fuel, we've done the test with the car off, hooked up with a copper wire and got the fuel pump working, could hear it really well. I know there's fuel getting through the rail to feed the injectors.

I had to take that apart to replace a couple o-rings after finding a leak after cleaning it up.

Just haven't tried to start the car with the copper wire.

btwilson86 · 09-30-2014, 05:03 AM

My thinking was perhaps the pump wasn't running while cranking, and the jumper wire may help in eliminating that possibility

Lopt · 09-30-2014, 02:37 PM

Alright, we'll give it a try today just to rule it out.. if you can think of anything else, let me know.

Lopt · 10-01-2014, 08:11 PM

Hello again.

So we connected the fuel pump with a copper wire and here are the results.

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B5Lc...hUNGJCMDA/edit

It looks we are having a fuel problem though not sure where to go from here.. If the fuel pump is working like that, why wouldn't it work while the ignition is on?

As my friend was exclaiming in the video, that's the strongest start we've gotten out of her so far. Granted it does sound like we need to play with the distributor a bit as well.

btwilson86 · 10-02-2014, 05:26 AM

Sweet, a result lol. The fuel pump doesn't start pumping until the AFM has air moving through it. I would now double check your air flow meter connection is good and that it's wiring is also in good shape. Its possible that it didn't continue to run because the ecu isn't receiving a good signal from your air flow meter. If that all looks okay then I'd start double checking vacuum lines. As long as your distributor rotor is pointing at the #1 plug wire with the engine at TDC on the compression stroke, the engine should run just fine. Setting the base timing just fine tunes the spark for optimal performance. If your distributor is installed correctly, which I believe it is from your earlier video, I don't think you need to mess with it at this point.

I've done an engine swap a couple of times on these cars, and one of the times the engine would not run on its own until I jumped the pins in the diagnostic box to bypass the fuel pump. I don't think the fuel system pressurized enough from just trying to start it, so we just had to do an initial prime because I didn't have to repeat the process again once the car ran on its own.

09-28-2014, 03:17 PM	#3
btwilson86 Super Moderator Join Date: May 2007 Location: Billings, Montana Posts: 1,034	I agree with Busted Knuckles. If you had taken your distributor out during the project, your ignition timing could be off. I've made the mistake once of putting my dizzy in 180? out, took me a few days to figure that one out. __________________ 1989 7MGTE R154 Targa Top White Package w/Blue Interior Driftmotion 57trim CT26, Upgraded Intercooler, 2.25" Hard Pipes, 3" Turbo Back Exhaust with Test Pipe, HKS VPC w/GM 3 bar MAP sensor, APEXi S-AFC, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, ProSport EVO Series Boost / Fuel Pressure / AFR gauges, Lotek a Pillar Gauge Pod, HKS Type 0 Turbo Timer, Eibach Lowering Springs, Tokico Illumina II TEMS struts, custom powder coated Motegi Racing TrakLite wheels

09-30-2014, 02:19 AM	#5
btwilson86 Super Moderator Join Date: May 2007 Location: Billings, Montana Posts: 1,034	Alright, I don't think its a timing issue anymore- that all looks okay thanks to your videos. What have you done to confirm you're getting fuel? Have you tried starting with the B+ and FP pins connected in the diagnostic box? __________________ 1989 7MGTE R154 Targa Top White Package w/Blue Interior Driftmotion 57trim CT26, Upgraded Intercooler, 2.25" Hard Pipes, 3" Turbo Back Exhaust with Test Pipe, HKS VPC w/GM 3 bar MAP sensor, APEXi S-AFC, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, ProSport EVO Series Boost / Fuel Pressure / AFR gauges, Lotek a Pillar Gauge Pod, HKS Type 0 Turbo Timer, Eibach Lowering Springs, Tokico Illumina II TEMS struts, custom powder coated Motegi Racing TrakLite wheels

09-30-2014, 05:03 AM	#7
btwilson86 Super Moderator Join Date: May 2007 Location: Billings, Montana Posts: 1,034	My thinking was perhaps the pump wasn't running while cranking, and the jumper wire may help in eliminating that possibility __________________ 1989 7MGTE R154 Targa Top White Package w/Blue Interior Driftmotion 57trim CT26, Upgraded Intercooler, 2.25" Hard Pipes, 3" Turbo Back Exhaust with Test Pipe, HKS VPC w/GM 3 bar MAP sensor, APEXi S-AFC, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, ProSport EVO Series Boost / Fuel Pressure / AFR gauges, Lotek a Pillar Gauge Pod, HKS Type 0 Turbo Timer, Eibach Lowering Springs, Tokico Illumina II TEMS struts, custom powder coated Motegi Racing TrakLite wheels

10-02-2014, 05:26 AM	#10
btwilson86 Super Moderator Join Date: May 2007 Location: Billings, Montana Posts: 1,034	Sweet, a result lol. The fuel pump doesn't start pumping until the AFM has air moving through it. I would now double check your air flow meter connection is good and that it's wiring is also in good shape. Its possible that it didn't continue to run because the ecu isn't receiving a good signal from your air flow meter. If that all looks okay then I'd start double checking vacuum lines. As long as your distributor rotor is pointing at the #1 plug wire with the engine at TDC on the compression stroke, the engine should run just fine. Setting the base timing just fine tunes the spark for optimal performance. If your distributor is installed correctly, which I believe it is from your earlier video, I don't think you need to mess with it at this point. I've done an engine swap a couple of times on these cars, and one of the times the engine would not run on its own until I jumped the pins in the diagnostic box to bypass the fuel pump. I don't think the fuel system pressurized enough from just trying to start it, so we just had to do an initial prime because I didn't have to repeat the process again once the car ran on its own. __________________ 1989 7MGTE R154 Targa Top White Package w/Blue Interior Driftmotion 57trim CT26, Upgraded Intercooler, 2.25" Hard Pipes, 3" Turbo Back Exhaust with Test Pipe, HKS VPC w/GM 3 bar MAP sensor, APEXi S-AFC, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, ProSport EVO Series Boost / Fuel Pressure / AFR gauges, Lotek a Pillar Gauge Pod, HKS Type 0 Turbo Timer, Eibach Lowering Springs, Tokico Illumina II TEMS struts, custom powder coated Motegi Racing TrakLite wheels

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09-27-2014, 10:38 PM	#1
Lopt Stock Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: phoenix Posts: 11	Hello again, need some help please. Hi everyone. So I found out that my 7mge had a headgasket leak. So I took it upon myself to fix it for a fraction of the cost instead of taking it to a mechanic. hks headgasket, and apr bolts <3 So far it's been a great learning experience, however it's also been terribly frustrating. I can't get her to start since doing the work.. My friend and I have been doing trouble shooting on and off for about two months now and we're at a loss. She is throwing a code 41 and a 51, but I don't think those will prevent her from actually starting up. The starter is good, the cap and rotor are good, wires are good, she has spark, fuel and air. I'm pretty darn sure i've got all the vacuum lines and the wiring harness in the right spots.. She's strong.. she wants to start, but something is preventing it and I'm about done and ready to tow her to a shop, but I really don't want to.. please help revive her.

09-28-2014, 01:13 PM	#2
Busted Knuckles 12psi boost Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Atlanta Posts: 300	First, double-check both your valve timing and your ignition timing. Either or both significantly off would cause a no-start issue. Then, check for fuel and injector pulsing.

09-29-2014, 10:00 PM	#4
Lopt Stock Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: phoenix Posts: 11	Alright, I appreciate the little bits of feedback so far, but I am pretty sure the timing is good.. however here are a couple videos of what my friend and I have so far. This first one is showing you what we've done to get the timing right. https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B5Lc...ZwaG1JMEU/edit this second one is the vehicle trying to turn over but not getting anywhere.. Maybe there's something I'm not hearing that others can point out.. but. I'm not sure. https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B5Lc...V3cFI1Nms/edit

09-30-2014, 04:24 AM	#6
Lopt Stock Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: phoenix Posts: 11	Thanks for the reply, For the fuel, we've done the test with the car off, hooked up with a copper wire and got the fuel pump working, could hear it really well. I know there's fuel getting through the rail to feed the injectors. I had to take that apart to replace a couple o-rings after finding a leak after cleaning it up. Just haven't tried to start the car with the copper wire.

09-30-2014, 02:37 PM	#8
Lopt Stock Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: phoenix Posts: 11	Alright, we'll give it a try today just to rule it out.. if you can think of anything else, let me know.

10-01-2014, 08:11 PM	#9
Lopt Stock Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: phoenix Posts: 11	Hello again. So we connected the fuel pump with a copper wire and here are the results. https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B5Lc...hUNGJCMDA/edit It looks we are having a fuel problem though not sure where to go from here.. If the fuel pump is working like that, why wouldn't it work while the ignition is on? As my friend was exclaiming in the video, that's the strongest start we've gotten out of her so far. Granted it does sound like we need to play with the distributor a bit as well.