Hello again, need some help please.
 

Hi everyone. So I found out that my 7mge had a headgasket leak. So I took it upon myself to fix it for a fraction of the cost instead of taking it to a mechanic. hks headgasket, and apr bolts <3

So far it's been a great learning experience, however it's also been terribly frustrating. I can't get her to start since doing the work..

My friend and I have been doing trouble shooting on and off for about two months now and we're at a loss. She is throwing a code 41 and a 51, but I don't think those will prevent her from actually starting up.

The starter is good, the cap and rotor are good, wires are good, she has spark, fuel and air. I'm pretty darn sure i've got all the vacuum lines and the wiring harness in the right spots..

She's strong.. she wants to start, but something is preventing it and I'm about done and ready to tow her to a shop, but I really don't want to.. please help revive her.

First, double-check both your valve timing and your ignition timing. Either or both significantly off would cause a no-start issue. Then, check for fuel and injector pulsing.

I agree with Busted Knuckles. If you had taken your distributor out during the project, your ignition timing could be off. I've made the mistake once of putting my dizzy in 180? out, took me a few days to figure that one out.

Alright, I appreciate the little bits of feedback so far, but I am pretty sure the timing is good.. however here are a couple videos of what my friend and I have so far.

This first one is showing you what we've done to get the timing right.
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B5Lc...ZwaG1JMEU/edit

this second one is the vehicle trying to turn over but not getting anywhere..
Maybe there's something I'm not hearing that others can point out.. but. I'm not sure.
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B5Lc...V3cFI1Nms/edit

Alright, I don't think its a timing issue anymore- that all looks okay thanks to your videos.

What have you done to confirm you're getting fuel? Have you tried starting with the B+ and FP pins connected in the diagnostic box?

Thanks for the reply,

For the fuel, we've done the test with the car off, hooked up with a copper wire and got the fuel pump working, could hear it really well. I know there's fuel getting through the rail to feed the injectors.

I had to take that apart to replace a couple o-rings after finding a leak after cleaning it up.

Just haven't tried to start the car with the copper wire.

My thinking was perhaps the pump wasn't running while cranking, and the jumper wire may help in eliminating that possibility

Alright, we'll give it a try today just to rule it out.. if you can think of anything else, let me know.

Hello again.

So we connected the fuel pump with a copper wire and here are the results.

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B5Lc...hUNGJCMDA/edit

It looks we are having a fuel problem though not sure where to go from here.. If the fuel pump is working like that, why wouldn't it work while the ignition is on?

As my friend was exclaiming in the video, that's the strongest start we've gotten out of her so far. Granted it does sound like we need to play with the distributor a bit as well.

Sweet, a result lol. The fuel pump doesn't start pumping until the AFM has air moving through it. I would now double check your air flow meter connection is good and that it's wiring is also in good shape. Its possible that it didn't continue to run because the ecu isn't receiving a good signal from your air flow meter. If that all looks okay then I'd start double checking vacuum lines. As long as your distributor rotor is pointing at the #1 plug wire with the engine at TDC on the compression stroke, the engine should run just fine. Setting the base timing just fine tunes the spark for optimal performance. If your distributor is installed correctly, which I believe it is from your earlier video, I don't think you need to mess with it at this point.


I've done an engine swap a couple of times on these cars, and one of the times the engine would not run on its own until I jumped the pins in the diagnostic box to bypass the fuel pump. I don't think the fuel system pressurized enough from just trying to start it, so we just had to do an initial prime because I didn't have to repeat the process again once the car ran on its own.

btwilson,

Is there a good way of checking to see if the AFM has that connection we need other than just visual? Might seem like a mundane question for you season pros.. but I'm still really new to all this.

Thanks again

Okay, so we took an OEM meter to the AFM, hooked up E2 - VC and got less than the recommended 200-400 ohms..

Getting anywhere from 150-190 and it's not very stable.

We're about to head to a pick and pull to take a wiring harness and maybe the AFM off of a 7mge Cressida we happened across a month back or so.. the car seems to be in good condition other than the front end collision it looks to have gotten into..

Anyhow.. not sure where to go from there.. all the vacuum lines are still good.. so at this point I'm pretty sure it's electrical.

I've got one more thing I've been concerned about since putting the car back together. I have a picture here showing two plugs that I haven't been able to locate.. While I was tearing the car apart I forgot to label these and it's been making me scratch my head ever since.

I'm not sure if these are meant to actually connect to anything or not.

please let me know.

I think extra connectors under the intake manifold is normal, they could be for the different transmission options/abs/etc. I don't immediately recognize those ones in particular.

Were you able to find a different AFM and see if that made any difference? As far as testing the wiring to the sensor, I would get a look at the wiring diagrams and check continuity of each of the AFM wires between each end an make sure there are no breakes or unusually high resistance.