newbie question
 

I've been reading posts since joining last week, more so the "check engine light" ...seems to be a very common problem for this generation.
mine comes on right at start and goes away once moving, then returns when I've reached cruising speed, along with rough jerking as I try to maintain a speed. so my drive shaft a beating, not to mention stalling at lights... spitting and sputtering and wasting fuel not to mention $$$. Its all I can smell when I leave a light after barely re starting.
I know there are many posts with many comments and remedes for the problem... but im getting held up at the very start of any attempt at a cure... when i put the jumper wire into the diagnositc compartment, i get nothing but a engine light that stays on in the start position... im not getting any flashing... but definitely have an issue! Any ideas?

I have a 1989 mk3 7MGTE turbo 5 speed with aftermarket turbo (think the guy told me it was a T41 or T61) and aftermarket intercooler and piping, with an AEM tru boost gauge (sorry, unable to upload pics)

Wrong info
 

I figured out why i wasnt getting any codes flashing... wrong terminals mentioned in post... not t and e1.. but te1 and e1 worked much better (maybe the other terminals were for a different year, but these other terminals work for 89)
i got code 31 and 52. i had the afm off to clean with carb cleaner... hasn't run or idled well since. not sure which direction to go here... i checked with mulitmeter and resistance was present about .1500 ohms.
im in ontario, so used afm's are getting hard to find. any ideas on where i can get a used one?

?????????? Any one home? Or is this forum dead?

My computer crashed so I've been working on getting an old laptop back up and running to get me by.... that and I just can't ever seem to get any time away from work. I thought I had replied to you from my phone a couple days ago but I would have been working so I may have been side tracked.

You may have very well killed the AFM when you "cleaned" it. It's an optical type of sensor and the optics are VERY sensitive.

If you look in the MKIII FAQ section you should find a thread about the different diagnostic codes and another about the knock sensor or knock sensor rewire (related to code 52). If you don't see it in there then try searching "knock sensor rewire" in the MKIII forum.



Code 31 and 32 Air flow meter circuit or Vacuum sensor signal fault
Code 52, 53 and 55 Knock sensor fault

Afm
 

I have a new Toyota (stock) AFM if you are interested.
Complete assembly, used once for as a diagnostic source.

Thank you Cre for all the info and hints on where to look. This car has never really run right since day one. I know the previous owner(s) done a great job with the cars maintenance and upgrading as parts failed... but something is just not quite. Before i wrecked the afm the car had good and bad days... cooler nights I've been most impressed with the pull this car has... so I know what its capable of. Lol now if I could just see this consistantly :)

Thanks again for your time

Hello MJG, from what you described sounds like your offering the electronics and housing together. I appreciate you letting me know, but for now the best route for me is to try and find just the electronics...
thanks again

Yes, it is the complete AFM assembly. The electronic karman vortex generator was not sold separately from the AFM body, by Toyota.
Good luck.

Changed the afm, no more engine lights, car is running great other than me seeing the occasional puff off very stinky smoke... and its happening at the strangest times... when im gearing down for a red light, just befote the car is stopped and under no load at all, it will let a big puff of smoke out. Im baffled by this since the car is running great.
Sometimes it doesnt do it at all, other times its every red light i stop at.
I've even had a friend follow to tell me if he smells oil and there was no odor. I did notice small amounts of oil in my turbo piping... Is there any way this can end up running thru my engine?

I finally broke down and spent the $30 on a compression gauge and all cylinders were 160 psi. I checked es the 3rd from the front was 155 psi. Other than that one lower cylinder, thats pretty good for an 89 with 200500 kms. The last time I changed the oil I noticed the drain plug had a light drip going... not the worst thing ive ever seen under a car... but when Iooked down the rest of the underneath I realized the dust cover was missing from my bell housing... now would it be possible for that oil to make its way to the flywheel and so on? That would explain the horrible smell and the very occasional slip (when my foot accidently slips off the side of my pedal while attempting 2nd gear ;-0 ) the more I think of it the more sense it makes to me... but I guess thats the case with anything thats over thought.
Having mentioned all that, does it also make sense that it does it most when gearing down for a light/stop sign... would be putting the clutch thru some wear...

I love this car (wish I could upload a few pics... but not having luck with that either :( ive tried several times) but I've had the worst luck ever. I just bought the car last June... I was impressed on test drive and I only lowered the asking price by $800. I wasn't about to insult the guy and for the condition and amount of upgrades which were for the most part done properly. The original listed price was $5000 with 189000 kms.
the worst luck part of my sob story is that all I have done is take nothing but the best care for this car... But in the past month ive hit a deer then 2 nights later I hit a coyote... thats all with the engine light troubleshooting (solved) and now this SMOKE!!! i plan on never letting this one go (its my second of the same year/model)
So if any one can point me in the right direction, it would be greatly appreciated...

Sorry bout the rambling on part... look at it as an "about me" kimd of thing lol