need help w/Bee-R rev limiter
 

I'm having an issue with my BEE-R rev limiter on my 89+ supra 7MGTE. the damn thing just doesn't seem to work correctly. i have tried wiring it in numerous configurations and the only one that yields me a partial result is the configuration from this link which is JZA70 specific:

http://www.supramania.com/forums/sho...70-specific%29

i currently have it wired into the ECU in the configuration from the above link which is:

Red wire - +B

Black wire - Battery ground

Yellow wire - NE

Green wire - IGF



right now the rev limiter works however it is rev limiting at idle (bouncing idle from 650 rpm) it will not let me go past 1000 rpm on any setting, on any knob. when i put the yellow gain knob back to zero (0) the rev limiter deactivates and runs as if there was no BEE-R installed, which is what it's supposed to do. i have also tried to intercept the other 3 igniter wires which are IGT, IGDA, and IGDB and all yielded the same results above. also tried wiring the way the BEE-R instructions say to do and i got zero results.

i need some help from someone who has installed one of these on a 89+ 7MGTE. i know there is a few guys out there that have these installed because I've seen the videos on youtube! i just need some direction on how to wire this thing up! thanks!

I'm surprised you didn't fine more info on SM. I'll be happy to look over the wiring diagrams and the SM thread and see what I can figure out. How do you have the white wire connected?

Haven't even hooked up the white wire yet because the normal rev limiter doesn't even work right yet lol. But I plan to run it thru the e-brake wire. Its my understanding the unit will work without having the white wire hooked up because its for the launch control. Ill wire it in tomorrow anyways to see what results I get.

Ok, and are the two cylinder config jumpers both intact? (Brown and grey, I believe) It may require a pull up resistor. I know the MAFT Pro's timing controls required one to be added. But let's check everything else first.


EDITED

Yes I didn't cut any of those

*update*
 

*UPDATE* i tried a few more configurations and still nothing. i even wired in the white wire for the E-Brake to see if that would help and..... NOTHING! the lights start flashing at the right time but it's not cutting spark at all. i contacted another seller from ebay about the issues that I'm having and he said to open up my unit and see if the knobs are attached to blue switches. if they are, it's a counterfeit unit. if they're attached to black switches, it's a genuine unit. here is what mine looks like:

http://s1131.photobucket.com/user/re...34059.jpg.html

mine are attached to blue switches, which explains the issues i'm having. FAKE UNIT! I purchased another unit from the guy that i have been emailing back and forth and am getting a full refund from the previous seller. the new seller is willing to work with me and give me a refund if this one doesn't work. he also verified that the knobs are attached to black switches prior to it shipping so this should be a genuine unit that works, i hope. so Bee-R purchasers, check your knob color before you purchase. don't want anyone to go through what i am going through. More updates to come as the new unit comes in!

There is a LOT of argument over what, if any, indicators there are to identify a counterfeit. The manufacturer seems to have provided no info to date. Another thing people mention is that the known genuine hardware has very short brown and grey loops and they're shrink wrapped to the main loom where it exits the case. The loops only extend an inch or so from the case.

Cre, I hear what you're saying. I've done tons of research in the pastafew days and I've seen genuine ones with long and short looms. Or At least ones that work with long and short looms. I guess the biggest visible sign of a counterfeit is blue switches. Guess ill find out in a few days

The color of the casing of the potentiometers just isn't convincing enough. I've had plenty of batches of electronic components (boxes of 100 or more) from the same manufacturer where they switched between batches and one an a while mid lot. It'd really be great if the manufacturer would provide a definite test. Please do let us know what turns up and if you do get a good unit feel free to post a link for the vendor. Not a lot of call for these in the MKIII community but it wouldn't hurt to have a known good source.

Will definitely post who the vendor is if its a good unit. I don't want anyone to go through this. I understand not too many mk3 owners have these but I'm gonna support the community in any way that I can

*UPDATE*

Got the new unit in yesterday and got it installed. unit works as advertised! definitely got a bad unit from the last guy i bought it from. i can definitely tell a difference from the build quality. the unit is heavier, the wire loom looks cleaner and the switches actually make a click when you turn them. and the knobs on the new unit ARE connected to black switches.

i wired it the way the directions tell you to for an 89+ 7mgte and it did not work. I ended up having to wire it up the way the 3sgte says to do it. RED is the way that didn't work and GREEN is how I have it wired on the below instructions:

http://i1131.photobucket.com/albums/...seupfort14.jpg



current working setup is as follows:

Red wire - +B (black w/red stripe wire on ECU connector)

Black wire - Ground (anywhere to the chassis)

Yellow wire - IGF (Turquoise w/black stripe wire on ECU connector)

Green wire - NE (Blue wire on ECU connector)

White wire - E-Brake (white wire coming from E-Brake light switch)

I'd imagine it would go the same way for the 87-88 ECU just make sure you're tapping into the ignition and RPM signal wires (IGF and NE) respectively. 89+ 7MGTE guys, here is the way you wire this thing up! i hope this helps and works for anyone else who is trying to do this.

Thanks for posting. The pre89 and 89+ ECU connectors are quite different as far as both pinout and color code are concerned. '97-'88 would look like T-12 on that page but Y and G are reversed if Y = NE and G = IGf. R is correct for +B1.

EDIT: When in doubt refer to the manufacturer's diagram... http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Librar...aspx?S=FI&P=50 Confirms that the diagram they listed is not correct.

So, did you have the last unit correctly wired at any point? Just curious.

Yeah I had it wired in the configuration I have now and it didn't even work. The lights flickered at the right times when the ignition was supposed to cut but didn't work

Ok, thanks. Well, at least you've got it all running now. Did you have any luck returning the bogus unit?

the issued me a full refund, no questions asked, and didn't even ask for the unit back. i offered to ship it back but they didn't even want it so i kept it haha!