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-   -   Okay guys its been asked alot, now i need details (http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/mkiii-supra/20684-okay-guys-its-been-asked-alot-now-i-need-details.html)

Joefishizzle 07-21-2012 02:26 AM

Okay guys its been asked alot, now i need details
 
Currently: 86.5 7MGE NA

I wanna swap to a 7MGTE. i found one from a 89. Ecu, wiring harness, ect.....


my questions....

1: Will it fit (subframe/mounts)?

2: Using 89 Electronics will my interior harness/Cluster have issues/problems?

3: Will my bellhousing for my W58 fit the GTE for now? (i will R154 Later)

Thanks guys

btwilson86 07-21-2012 04:34 AM

Mounts/oil pan are different, you should be able to swap your existing ones over (i think). Using a stock cluster, your tach will not work without modification. 89 is tricky, lots of different possibilities in wiring.

My friend has an 87 that we swapped a 7MGTE into with 89 electronics. Had to do some custom wiring (still don't have the o2 sensor heater circuit working yet). We were able to use his 87 dash wiring, and swapped in a pre89 turbo cluster, so all that works (except the boost gauge; have not been able to find that elusive boost pressure sensor or w/e you want to call it).

Get as many wiring diagrams as you can, and study the crap out of them. Maybe start making notes of what all is different and needs to be addressed during the swap.


I will say this, since we're on the topic of the engine swap; we both came to the conclusion that it would have been quicker, easier, and more cost-effective to just buy a turbo car. He was a few thousand dollars into it before it was running (that's obviously including the cost of engine and tranny as well as the exhaust, intercooler, pipes, and the little odds and ends needed for a stock swap)

btwilson86 07-21-2012 04:35 AM

Oh, and your w58 will fit fine as long as you use your n/a flywheel and clutch kit

Joefishizzle 07-21-2012 06:28 AM

Man I thought it would be straight forward. Im trying to justify going 2jz/1jz instead of 7MGTE. If it's that much work to find a pre 89 GTE might just go JZ. Thanks for the info man

cre 07-21-2012 07:24 PM

Don't forget to get the oil cooler setup and the aux electrical fan which sits between the rad and condenser.

There is a good deal more to a 1JZ swap. If you're feeling daunted by the 7M-GTE swap the then forget the 1JZ.

Joefishizzle 07-22-2012 05:48 AM

thanks guys, well its official. i bought a GTE :naughty:
gonna rebuild it. looking for maybe 350 max. gonna locate 87 electronics and what not and go from there. guess im staying loyal to the M family. :rofl:

crazyfj40 07-22-2012 02:32 PM

Let me know how yours turns out i bought a complete 90 turbo supra and im gonna swap that all into an 86.5 will be starting that soon i figured i would use the complete wire harness and dash out of the 90 along with the complete drive train out of the 90 as well that way i figure will be less hassle i hope. oh n the reason im doin that is the 90 has no title and im not gonna play with tryin to get one


Dan :bigthumb:

Joefishizzle 07-22-2012 03:28 PM

Alright will do. However im gonna find pre 89 electronics and hook mine up that way. Less headache imo. I'll go from there. Got a grab on a harness near me for a turbo 87 so im on the right track

cre 07-23-2012 03:59 AM

I'd check if it's got a 6M or 7M crank. Pre89 electronics have a higher redline as those engines came with the lighter 6M crank. In '89 and I think even some '90s it was a mixed bag and you only knew by looking at the crank itself or, if you new it to be original, the tachometer's face (ECUs were different as well). The difference of a mere 250RPM isn't a big deal on a fresh build with mild goals, but it's something that's worth being aware of.

Joefishizzle 07-23-2012 06:39 AM

thank you cre. i will take a look at it once i have the motor on the stand and opened up. did the pre 89 NA's have a 6M crank aswell? cause if thats the case i will just take it out of my NA

cre 07-23-2012 06:16 PM

The 6M was used in all 7M blocks until they started phasing it out in '89. I've no idea why it was sprinkled in throughout '89 and I think maybe in some '90 year engines. The 7M is much beefier and better balanced, there are reasons one may choose to go with either one.

The only thing the N/A block saw before the GTE did were the beefier block castings (extra and stronger ribs and I think some heavier bosses and minor increases in outer wall thickness). These started showing up in '88 on the GE but not on the GTE until mid '89 or so, if I remember correctly.

Joefishizzle 07-24-2012 05:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cre (Post 103876)
The 7M is much beefier and better balanced, there are reasons one may choose to go with either one.

The only thing the N/A block saw before the GTE did were the beefier block castings (extra and stronger ribs and I think some heavier bosses and minor increases in outer wall thickness). These started showing up in '88 on the GE but not on the GTE until mid '89 or so, if I remember correctly.

So would i be wise to use the 6M crank if either motor has one? and also would it be better to use the my 86.5 GE block over the 89 GTE block?

:dunno:

Joefishizzle 07-25-2012 05:49 AM

okay so pics of said motor

http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/...mporary-58.jpg

http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/...mporary-69.jpg

okay so there is a metal head gasket. so someone was in there before. maybe a good sign if the gasket is good. havent opened it up yet.

Okay now here are stamping marks on the front of the head. if anyone can make sense of these let me know please i think the head was redone.

http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/...mporary-71.jpg

Apears to read
BMS
123
7 28 8

http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/...mporary-72.jpg

This one

9.50 8

Anyone?:dunno:

cre 07-25-2012 06:37 AM

Since you're still not looking at a major build I'd match the crank to the electronics being unless you have a specific reason to do otherwise or one of the cranks is in poor shape. The 7M crank would be my preference out of the two as a starting point for a big build though but it would end up somewhere in between a 7M and a 6M as far as weight and form.

The rivet shows there's a MLS HG installed. The stamping was put there by a shop who worked on it... I'm really only used to seeing anything more than a label with serial number on the timing cover unless a very significant amount of work has been done to the engine and or head. Any similar markings on the block?

The scribble on the side is a positive... thus you know it was actually something cut into the mold. It's a mold identifier, you find those on all heads. Sometimes there's just one or two numbers and sometimes there's a good deal more. It usually is information used only at the plant and just specifies which casting revision it is and specifically which mold. IIRC, there are 27+ known different castings for the 7M head... I'm not certain about the number right now, I'd have to sleep on it.

Joefishizzle 07-25-2012 05:14 PM

thank you cre for all the knowledge :bigthumb:

http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/...mporary-74.jpg

well shes really clean up top

http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/...mporary-73.jpg

and ARP head studs :offwall: YAY

cre 07-25-2012 08:25 PM

BMS
123
7 28 8

That's 7 25 8

A head rebuilt/remanufactured by BMS Engines on July 25 of 2005. 123 would normally be a serial or job number except that they never work on 7Ms so they just tapped in the 123 as a place marker, or it could be an employee ID.

I'm just guessing here.


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