CEL appear and disappearing
 

So after about 15 mins of driving or about 20 miles my cel comes on, however after I turn the car off and come out again. No codes.....
I've checked my battery not like its resetting. Previous codes were 51, my idle turns to shit when it comes on. Idles at about 1100.
Any suggestions?

Could be knock. Not all runtime errors are recorded and from what I understand some require a certain threshold to be surpassed in any given instance before it's recorded. There is no code for "OMG there's a hole in the #1 piston and your rods are a knockin!". You can try driving around with the diagnostic mode set and see if any additional codes show up. Naturally there will be a code 51.

Power loss at the ECU to the point of clearing the codes is a possibility but usually this isn't consistent and you'll see a code for inconsistent power show up sooner or later.

Code 51 is just indicative of the IDL switch being open the A/C circuit reporting as "on" and it clears as the trigger condition is resolved. So, it'll show up it you step on the throttle, have the A/C on or the TPS is misaligned but once the condition is remedied it'll go away after a few seconds.

Well as far as vocal noise I can't hear a knock. Everything seems to be good. When I got my car the tps was loose so it was moving and my connector is shit, im gonna replace both of those with oem parts from driftmotion since there right down the street....and cheaper than vatozone!!!! Thank you cre. Im gon a jump the block and drive and see what happens.

Okay so codes 21, 31, and 51

21 - I have a brand new o2 sensor
.....so im not sure there

31 - is the afm correct? Now I've read the FAQ section on adjusting. However when you say the screw has to be a certain distance you mean from the top of the screw to the top of the housing or ? I could use some more insight on this one.

Thanks guys

Well, I'm not there to look at it for you so get your ass moving and do what makes sense (inspect the connector, wiring, sensor for crap stuck to ir, rattling noises when turned, bad gasket).

There was another part in that thread which said NEVER TOUCH THIS SCREW! That thread is only there so you can reset the screw is someones f'ed with it. At any rate, even if someone f'ed up the fuel mixture by dicking around with stuff like an idiot it still wouldn't cause a code 31. RTFM for diagnostics on the AFM.

I've checked all that. And I read that as well however the cap covering the screw is missing. So there is another cause for code 31?

Code 31 is an electrical failure. Nothing to do with the housing or trim screw.

<snip>

Forgot to mention im NA :[

Oh god... sorry. mixing up posts.... Just trying to check in while dashing from one place to another.


Forget everything except that 31 is an electrical failure. Resetting the idle/bypass air screw isn't going to fix that. Test the AFM as detailed in the TSRM.

rotflmao..