drive car after head gasket changed

[2fast4u]

hello i asked this question but how did you all drive you car after a head gasket change. the problem is that i need to take the car for emission test in washingtons state to get new tabs for the car. But when i bought the car the i didnt register it becuase in order to do so i needed to pass emissions but it never did. so i rebuilt it and now want to go get permits but ive heard from people saying dont let it gain boost not even 2 or 3 psi of boost. ok so when should i shift when did you guys shift around what rpms please list rpms. People say i shouldnt push the car until 500 miles so no boost for 500 miles what should i do? its a 7mgte supra its got original toyota head gasket but arp head studs

[cre]

Yes, you have asked this... and it was answered. Go back to your last thread next time. Why would anything have changed between now and then?

The synopsis was don't kick the shit out of it, retorque the studs after a few hundred miles, keep a very close eye out for leaks.

Additional things I don't think I've mentioned in your specific thread (but have mentioned numerous times in the past and would REALLY hope are common sense to at least some degree) are: Change the oil once after the first couple drives to flush out solvents and debris (Change the oil filter now). Change your coolant now too. I fill with a dilute coolant mix for the first hundred miles if it's warm weather, then do a proper flush, and fill normally from then on (Change the oil filter now too). You change the filter a couple times as there will probably be a lot of crap floating around but you don't need to change the oil each time you change the filter, just top the oil off. Oil filters are cheap insurance. Just use the cheap ones the first fill if you like and then step up after that. No need to run any different oil either. Run the cheapest stuff you can find (0W-30 or 10W30) the first couple runs and then go back to your preferred oil after that.


As for what people are telling you, they're ignorant or think you've rebuilt the bottom end. You're not waiting for the rings to cut/bed-in... There is nothing that you've done which needs to "wear in". The retorque on the head studs is to ensure that torque is even, but the torque that they're at presently is significantly higher than stock and those did fine at 8psi. Hell, even if you were breaking in a fresh, complete build a couple psi isn't going to cause any problems. The only problem you'll see from boosting is that if you botched the job it'll just show up sooner. Now get over it and get on it (the throttle, you perv).


There you go. As complete as you get.