new alternator...now more flash codes.. :(
 

im rdy to drive this POS into the ocean very soon..... just changed the alternator to figure out idle problem....and now i have a check engine light on....


he's my flash code... flash flash flash (pause) flash.......flash flash flash flash flash...(pause)flash


its a 7mgte 87....original issue has been stalling at stop sign or redlights (unless foot is on gas to keep idle up)...

would that be a 35?

I don't understand what you mean with the flash and a dozen perods between it and the next five and then (pause) as well.

35 = * * * _ * * * * * _ _ _ (then repeats) * = flash ; _ = 1 second pause.

i guess im getting a code 35 then...3 flashes, a pause then 5 more, then a repeat.

car seems to stall now when i tap on the gas fast at idle.. it idles at around 500-600 (seems to go up and down between 500-600) ill tap on the gas to bring idle to 1k then let off the gas pedal then itll bog n stall..sometimes it recovers itself from stalling out.

i guess next on my list to purchase with my limited knowledge would be TPS? IACV?

high altitude compensation sensor? (hac) perhaps?

HAC sensor is an external unit on '87 and '88 7M-GTE MKIIIs. It's a small black box with a three wire harness running to it which mounts to the same support that the glove box hinge mounts to. As long you're not driving at different elevations (see: driving in Kansas versus the Tibet) it should make little difference in actual performance.

What to do next? Should i just goto mech and let them check codes so i can narrow down the problem? Or try to check the TPS? Im kinda lost on ideas now.

ok after actually reading up on these ecu codes.. im pretty positive im getting a code 31 and a code 51... MAF and TPS seems like the culprits now....

*kvafm... thats what i meant instead of maf.

when i start the car cold it starts idle at around 900-1000 rpm...within about 3 seconds of this idle the check engine light goes on, at that exact moment idle drops to around 500 rpm and starts to fluctuates from 500-600rpms.. if i give it throttle to around 1000 the check engine light goes off, as soon as i let off throttle from that time the rpms drop to a stumbling 450-300 rpms with check engine light back on then returns to the 500-600 rpm range.

i started looking at the TPS connection and removed the wire harness for inspection.. i forgot to reconnect and started the engine..to my amazment there was NO difference in the cars idle or rpm from previous description above.. whatcha think???

i think i might be getting somewhere.. help me plz :)

Code 51 AC signal on; IDL switch open (part of the TPS). This code will only appear if the IDL switch is open (ie: you're stepping on the throttle in diag mode or the TPS is not properly calibrated) or the A/C system is on or says it is. When the cause of the code is corrected it will automatically remove itself, no need to reset the ECU.

There's nothing amazing about these codes being present. Check electrical connections and wiring and then refer to the TSRM for data on how to test the sensors.

i will check my TPS once i get the multimeter....

curious what makes the few clicking sounds right after stall? is that the TPS? seems to be coming from the throttle area.


ty for help btw...

The only thing that ticks after the engine is turned off is the ISCV while the ECU parks it.

Just found some info here on the forum that suggests that a ISCV thats clicking is working properly...so thats good, one less thing to purchase. It seems the throttle stop screw has been tampered with..i adjusted it and im not stalling anymore....now check engine light comes on when i let OFF the throttle and goes away when ON the throttle. Ill check what codes are present after work.


Ty cre

Tampered with how? How did you adjust it? Why do people always fuck with that. It never moves from its factory preset unless it's messed with.

The computer controls idle via the ISCV, it's plenty possible that the ISCV or it's airways are clogged too.

Check for diagnostic codes.

i think it was tampered because there was yellow paint mark on the screw and it was not aligned.. only code im getting now is a code 31.. the code 51 is no longer present.

Ok, well, test the AFM and inspect it's wiring and connectors. Make sure the TPS is properly calibrated.