recomended brake pads
 

im using my supra as a daily driver that one a month i take to a full weekend of autocross. iv installed new rotors and pads ( advanced auto pads and rotors. semi metalic cheap 20$ set up front and organic in rear) i know this is the farthest thing from performance brakes but they did ok for being cheap.

my question is what can i do to get better braking performance whith out spending alot of cash. im draining and flushing the brake cyliners' old fluid and using ati race fluid to help whith spongy pedal; costs maby 30$,probably better than the advanced auto brand also im not trying to spend 30 bucks a bottle from motul and brembo


for brake pads im going to kepp my cheap POS for street but im compleatly open for suggestions for track only brake pads since im swaping them out the day befor the event( keep in mine i need hard initial bite and low warm up period since there is a wait between runs) for rotors im probably going to run the power slot sloted rotors and the ati race fluid( never knew tire rack sold these things so cheap untill recentlyhttp://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...cons/icon7.gif) i dont really want to pay more than 115$ for pads since im not profesonaly competing. open to any suggestions and testimones

http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/resul...87&autoModClar=

I'm partial to EBC when looking for affordable, performance pads. EBC + stainless steel barke lines + new fluid and CLEAN ABS sensors = streetable stopping happiness.

thanks for the lighting fast response. im leaning twords the ebc red stuff, iv heard bad reviews of them not lasting very long but since its only gona be used 1 time a month doesent really matter. by clean abs sencors you mean make them out and just wipe and spray wit brake parts cleaner or should i use electrical parts cleaner ( they where working hard all day i could feel the pedal pulsating and not one lock up).

a quick question when it comes to the fluid flush the way i was tought is use a syringe or turky baister and drain 3/4ths of the resivour and fill wit new fluid, pump while car is on about 30 times, turn off car and repeat untill the fluid is compleatly clear ( it gets clearer and clearer everyuntill satisfyed) once compleatly clear, bleed the brakes to make shure clean fluid is coming out. from here drain a bit more than 3/4ths of resivour and fill half of new race fluid then blead brakes to get old fluid out( making shure the resivour doesent go dry) then top off whith new fluid

am im correct on this or is there a easier way to do all of this

I mean to clean any accumulated crap from the sensors and the signal wheels (the serrations in the rotor). Ferro-metallic dust from your brake pads and other grime accumulating in those locations may prevent the ABS from reading as well as it could.

I haven't seen that the EBC Red Stuff are much shorter lived than "good" OEM pads. The thing that hurts them the most is if they're paired with slotted or drilled rotors. Don't mix and match between front an back with any performance pad! I made the mistake of putting Red Stuffs on the back of my MR2 while waiting for the fronts to come in so I left some cheap OEM pads up front... The rear brakes locked up on me a number of times while the front wheels were still trying to move all while just trying to brake lightly. The Red Stuff pads are good for daily driving and periodic aggressive braking. They do quite well in the mountains where I ride the brakes a lot too.

How you replace the fluid depends on compatibility. If converting to a newer (and incompatible) type of fluid I use a quart or two of CHEAP stuff, the same type as I'm switching to. Drain as much of the reservoir as possible (typically by siphoning with a 1/4" rubber hose). Fill the reservoir back up with the cheap stuff. Then take off one caliper at a time and compress the piston as far as it will go. Now, open the bleeder and let it pour while someone up front adds more of the cheap stuff as the level drops until you signal that it's running clear (or whatever color the new stuff is). Do this for all four and then repeat with the good stuff but bleed as usual (pump the pedal as you work around the car. I just chase the old stuff out of the system by opening the bleeders normally and fill the reservoir if the new fluid is the same type. I'm kind of anal about this.... but I know some people who are much worse (insane routines) and I know a lot of people who absolutely couldn't care less.

Ok. I have always been told don't put the better pads in rear because it always ends in disaster and you example confirms this so on that thanks. I'm not really looking for street pads. I would only put them on the weekend of the race and then take them off. Is the red stuff really gona give the performance I would need in 100 degree day under alot of hard braking? most every one there Whith the heavily modes cars use hawk but they don't make pads for the mk3 if I recall corectly

Don't leave OEMs on the rear either... you may find the significant increase in oversteer while breaking upsetting (granted it's MUCH worse in mid-rear and rear engine cars).

Red Stuff are their middle of the road solution. If you're going to be racing on a circuit for an hour straight in 100+? weather I would probably step up to the Yellow Stuff (maybe even Blue Stuff). The next step up from there would be Porterfield (R4-E's if you're a real baller & badass) but I don't think you need them.

As for swapping them out, I wouldn't unless you're going to be swapping a set of rotors in and out too... For optimum breaking I would avoid allowing lesser pads to bed in with their lower friction material.

Weather wise it's not uncommon for the air field we autocross at to get to100 degress but I usually start at 10am and do constant back to back runs until about 3 and on Sunday usually 4 runs whith 20 minits in-between but this also goes up to the mile and a half course unlike Saturday which is half mile Ideally I would like a set of rotors and pads only for my events but that would be a bit expensive. I'm probably gona but the yellow stuff front and rear and use it daily and at events. For what I'm paying for them I hope they last

Thanks for the help Cre and I'm always open for suggestions

Keep in mind that they are probably going to squeak a little more than the reds (which squeak a tiny bit now and then, but not constantly) and they are a very dusty pad.

Thanks for the help Cre I apprichiate it. One more question originally the mk3
factory calls for semi metallic (better pad ) and organic in rear (a bit weaker) the ebb guild says if you put yellow in front you can pair it equally in rearor got whith red and ultimax should I pair front and rear yellow. Or should I put red in rear to keep a close factory bias or wouldn't really matter

I don't mean to hijack your thread or anything, but if we are on the topic of brakes, what kind of rotors do u recommend cre? Just like pandrade, my mk3 is my daily, but i do autocross also. Im leaning more toward the green stuff tbh, im a little tight on money lol

i belive earlier he recomended not using drilled and sloted if its daily but if you take the pads and rotors and only use them for the event i would go whith power slot's sloted rotors and yellow stuff pads( but i dont have that kind of money so blank rotors and leaving the yellow stuff on all the timehttp://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...cons/icon7.gif)

cre whats your take on this

only sloted and drilled if you take them off whith race pads, if daily driver leave the pads on whith blank rotors?

i mean if thats true...i would buy EBC pads, and my friend works at autozone so discounted blank rotors from them lol

always good to have that discount lol. on the link i posted earlier i dont think weaver blanks stand up agenst the brembos for the price. common 69 for front and 63 for rear maby weavers are 5 bucks less but i bet they dont have the quality brembo does

from what iv understood for max brake performance go yellow stuff whith sloted rotors but you give up longevity of rotors and pad life as well as being an expensive packadge

For a dd and rare occasion track car I'd just go with Brembo blanks. Even slotted cost you pad life. Granted slotted are typically camfered I still feel they still contribute to quicker wear. The reduction in surface area isn't really worth it if you're running a good low or medium low dust brake (See: EBC Red or Porterfield R4-E kevlar pads) or any high friction, heavily camfered and vented pad (such as EBC Blue).

I would be more inclined to run the front and rears matched. The thing many people don't take into account is that from the factory they're designed to be the same material and the rear pads are SMALLER.

well i got alot of great info through this post and it really helps me in making a disicion. thanks cre for all you help

i pieced this brake set up together. im in the middle of installing them now. still waiting on the powder coated rear calipers to come in. the rotors, pads, and new calipers came from brakeperformance.com and the braided stainless steel lines came from drift motion i spent around 500-600$ on this. the pads r their premium semi metallic pads also the rotors r zinc plated.







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