Supra has 4 cylinders full of water
 

the back four cylinders are full of water on my supra, just wondering if you guys think its a headgasket or a cracked/warped head or what. Ive havent got to drive this car yet due to having to work on it. Hasnt ran in 2 years.
1990 Supra Turbo 7M-GTE

Also want to know where can I get an engine rebuild kit for it that includes gaskets and etc...?

Yeah sure Fel Pro has kit here's the number hs9473-pt-1 hs stands for head set

i feel your pain....

i would get your head checked by a machine shop to ensure it hasn't got a crack

my suspicion is that due to it sitting for so long & being the stock gasket at only 58ft lbs that it may have just separated from the block and head and spewed water everywhere

but get the head checked anyway ;)

WOW. you probably have some serious rust damage in the engine cylinders too. If you can turn the engine over by hand then drain the water and spray some oil, Marvel Mystery oil works well, in each of the spark plug holes. If you are lucky, all you may need is to hone the cylinders, but you can't really tell about the piston rings though unless you pull the pistons.


Let us know how it goes!

Russ

How do you recommend I get the exhaust down pipe off of the turbo?


Also, there is a rubber cap that is behind the block on the passengers side that was cracked and all the coolant was out, I filled the radiator and turned the engine over and it started spewing out of the cap, so I think when I filled it with water that thats when the water got in the cylinders so I dont think its been in there for very long.

downpipe

jack car up, put on jackstands

undo 3 14mm nuts off bottom of flange on the bottom of the elbow
undo 4 nuts off elbow, lever with a persuasion bar... large flathead screwdriver, etc

don't forget to undo the stock bracket further down if you have it... usually bolted to the bellhousing i think... that will give movement on the downpipe

the little rubber cap is well known for bursting... get it either welded shut or another rubber cap :)

How do I get the 3 nuts off of the down pipe?

a ratchet... two long extensions, a universal & a 14mm socket

LEFTY LOOSEY RIGHTY TIGHTEY k :)

rgergtghtrht

any tips or tricks?

Do I have to remove the exhaust manifold off of the head to remove the head? or can I leave on there, pull the head and then remove it?

Unfortunately those nuts tend to rust on. Plenty of oil and a tight 6 point socket. If you don't round off the edges on the nut then you just have to keep applying pressure until you either get the nut loose or the stud comes out or the nut breaks off. You have to loosen the bolt that holds the down pipe to the bracket on the bell housing like suppra_girl said. You may have to loosen the nuts on the manifold to get it to move out and get you more room to those three nuts.

If all else fails you can unbolt the cat converter from the front end and take the manifold bolts off and pull that part of the exhuast out of the car. The will give the the option of using a torch on the nuts and get them off that way.

Good luck and keep us informed.
Russ

Do I have to remove the exhaust manifold off of the head to remove the head? or can I leave on there, pull the head and then remove it?

Also any tips on how to get the oil line nuts off? the ones under the turbo with the huge tube....


Thanks all for your help

use a ratchet and socket and remove the 2 10mm nuts off the oil drain on the block... you should have access with the tools from the engine bay top side

so basically have the ratchet horizontal to the oil drain nuts and you should be able to remove it

I guess you could ask for her to come and help...lol.


Russ

Sounds like a good idea, :D


I finally got the head off and I could tell that it was a gasket failure. I also could tell that the Number 6 cylinder has never fired in the whole engines life, if it has then not enough to show up. I think who ever built this engine was an idiot and did not know what they were doing. Everthing looks good but do you guys think I should hone the cylinders and put new rings in it? All there is, is flash rust on the cylinders and it wipes right off, there also is no ring grooves on the cylinders so i dont think this engine has ran much at all, but there is carbon build up on the top of the pistons and the head.

Yeah, I would try just honing the cylinders then, but it wouldn't hurt to have someone measure the bores just in case. I had an engine that I though looked very good, but was worn and needed to be bored out. If you take the head off at least go that far and if you do put pistons then look at the bearings too and replace them if necessary.

As far as that one cylinder never looking like it was firing, sometimes when there is a coolant leak in the cylinder it cleans the top of the piston and makes it look like it never fired.



Just my 2 cents



Russ

I dont have to remove the pistons to hone it do I?

Also should I rebuild the head while I have it off?

Well, if you wanted to do the best job with the honing then you would need to remove the pistons, but I have honed a few fairly fresh engines with the pistons still in and it worked out ok. That would also show if the bores are pretty round unless you use a bead type honing tool. Clean out the residue as best as you can after honing. That stuff shouldn't hurt the engine. Change the oil after running it a little bit, let it get warm. Have a machine shop take out some valves and see how the seats look. You might as well get a valve job done. Setting the valve lash is time consuming, but very necessary. You will need an extra set of shims to play with to get the clearances just right. New valve stem seals are a must and it would hurt to get a new set of valve springs. The springs aren't that strong but do weaken after time.

Good luck.

Russ

I will be doing all the work myself and I dont have much money but I do have all the tools as ive built a few engines before. Ive got 2 sitting right now 1969 302 small block and a 1970 402 big block, that I just finished but didn't do the machine work .

Well.... Blown HG, Warped Head, Worn Bearings, Rusted Cylinders, Stuck and broken Rings.... What else... I think thats it so far o wait, bad erosion on the the top of block and head.

Im beginning to not like this car any more...

Well after getting the head welded and built up in some spots and then decked we decided to pull the engine...
Got it apart and the rings were so gummy that they needed to be replaced.
The bearings were almost totally shot. Quite a bit of erosion on the top of the block so I sent it in to get welded up and decked and my machinist cold cleaned the block and then honed it too, well what do we find? Very bad rust pits in the 2 center cylinders my machinist recommended that we have it bored. Well I really dont know what to do, Ive already got the new rings so Ill have to try and return them for some over sized rings and then Ill have to get pistons too. What do you guys think Im starting to REALLY get frustrated with this damned car...

Two words.........new engine. It sounds like you'll be spending the same amount as you would to buy a new one.

How much are new engines?

they usually run from about 700-1000 from what I've seen at some sites and eBay.

Matt

hey buddy you and i are in the same boat. my car wouldnt run, started it one day and smoked up the neighbor hood, figured it was maybe bad rings pulled the engine, took it apart, warped head, so badly that if it were to be fixed the valves would hit the pistons, oh and there appeared to be a small crack in a cylinder wall... so im getting a new motor... when my bank account stops slipping out money... well good luck with your engine, and god have mercy on me...

exhaust manifold
 

I took the exhaust manifold off when i took my head off...lifting the head by itsself is a pain when your bending over the fenders, let alone with the manifolod on it.

I really feel for you guys. All i can say is that the majority of problems with this engine come from coolant and maintainence. I'm in the final stages of a full rebuild, about to put engine back in car. My engine had signs of all the problems you guys have mentioned but not as bad, i was lucky. $130 bucks to preasure test and surface the head, $600 bucks on parts, all a bit under trade as they were organized by a mechanic who helped with the rebuild. All cleaning i did myself, and the bore was honed by my mechanic, i saved heaps, and have been told it will last like any engine as long as i dont put straight water in it,(it eats the engine and cause a heap of problems) and service it like any car. THats it. All coolant pipes and lines have been replaced and im going to use the Toyota Red coolant, it really is good stuff and you dont have to change it like your oil so its worth any extra it cost.
And, if you do decide to do a full build check things like oil pressure before you start it, make sure oil cooler and heater box have been cleaned, and everything torqued right. Goodluck.