87 7mge not starting
 

Hi to all, my 87 7mge is not starting. I have replaced the maf with a rebuilt one. I have also bought a used distributor and I another used ignitor with a new coil. Now ever since the car hasnt started I have switched the sparkplugs to ngk iridiums and I also got a set of semi used ngk cables from my buddy which are on the car. Since my throttle body positioning sensor was broken and cracked and the spring was seized, I replaced it with a used one that looking clean and the spring had good tension on it. Now I removed the top half of the timing cover to ensure that time was correct when I set the crankshaft pulley at zero and it was so I made sure that the distributor was set by the markings on the distributor body to the shaft hole. Now the car seems like it wants to start but it turns off If I give it gas while the car is trying to start it dies can anyone help me with this? I need my car to go to school which happens to be UTI lol it's my first year going. Need help please can anyone tell me what to check for?

Have you checked for diagnostic codes? See the MKIII FAQ section for details.

Check that the grounds for the EFI system are CLEAN and well connected. There are a couple grounds bolted to the passenger side of the head toward the back (cyl #6) and a couple more on the driver's side which are bolted to a stud beneath the upper intake plenum (between cyls 5 and 6).

Okay so I hav checked the grounds and they appear to be good I have checked them to be sure tho. How ever I did manage to get the car started with a can of starter fluid. Now I checked the fuel pump relay resistor and if I'm not mistaken it shouldn't read more than .7 ohms if it's good. But my is reading 1.1 ohms. I did order a replacement. Should this be the problem to not starting the car? I did narrow it down to a fuel issue but is the relay resistor the only problem? I would grateful appreciate your help and input in regards to this matter thank you in advance.

Can anyone please inform me on how to check the fuel pump with out dropping the tank and removing the fuel pump
Thank you

You can override some of the fuel pump circuit by placing a jumper wire in the diagnostic box between FP and B+. This should cause the fuel pump to continuously run when the key is in the "on" position.

If you can't hear the fuel rushing through the fuel rail, you can take the fuel filler cap off and listen for the pump through the filler neck

Okay so I tried the jumper technique and I did start to hear a buzzing noise coming from around the fuel rail but the car still turns on but turns off immediately I believe I'm still not getting fuel. So no change after the jumper technique. Now after trying to start the car for a while I do get a puff of white smoke out of the throttle body.
Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advanced.

Did you try running the car with the jumper in place? Test the AFM, pay particular attention to the FC switch.

ITS ALIVE AGAIN But still have problems
 

Okay so I decided to change the fuel pump and when testing the pump out of the tank it would be engage but it would be really weak compared to the new one. So I again set the cam shafts and the crank shaft at zero and realigned the distributor. So we gave it a few tries and bam it started so now we left it on for a while and when I would give it some gas it the rpm would fluctuate :rant2: so I adjusted the distributor but still the same problem. Now I remember this problem occurring before the car died. I would floor it and it would seem like if I would hit a wall or I would be pulled back I would just encounter a loss of power than slowly I would regain it after a bit. Would I have faulty sparkplug wires?, injectors?, I have no idea what to look for or check. Please help. Thank you.