random idle fluctuation and engine stall
 

My 7m gte in 88 supra turbo has a strange habit of idle fluctuation at red lights and just idling. idle sometimes ranges from 500 to 1200 rpm and occasional will completely stall at idle. Check engine light is on also. I know I have a small hole in the turndown pipe behind the turbo. compression test shows 165 to 170 on all cylinders. no misfiring or hesitation really while driving. Hopefully someone can shed some light on how to solve my issues. Any help would be great.

Check codes first. (in the faq section)

Don't know how to get the codes. know you can jumper a wire in the diagnostic box, just not sure which ones to jumper.

Couldn't find it in the faq section eh?

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/TechTi...ror_codes.aspx

engine codes
 

I now have the codes for the engine light code 31 air flow meter , and 52 knock sensor. what next???? Anyone

You can just rewire the knock sensor, it's more than likely just the wire going to the knock sensor that is toast, hardly ever the sensor itself.
That is what I did and it worked like a charm. :rofl:

cold air induction
 

removed cold air induction which is an apex bolt on and ran car with no air filter and it stopped throwing the air flow meter code 31... any ideas?

Bhg
 

also discovered have a BHG never done one about to learn any tips or suggestions would be great planning on going back with a metal HG, unless someone gives me a reason not to. Several people have told me to torque to 75lbs. Hope that is right.

lets take it from the top.
you have a knock sensor code and a afm code.
As suggested re-wire your knock sensor, that will solve that problem.
Running your car w/o an air filter isn't doing anything to solve your AFM problem. You're not getting the code because you erased it after you checked it. It will come back, air filter or no. Could be one of 2 issues. 1 your afm itself broken (possible) or 2, one or more wires running to the afm are giving crap signals (more possible). You can try to wire in a new clip or replace the wires some other way. Or purchase a new afm for about 80 bucks at a scrap yard. (Ls 400 use the same electronics) I would suggest checking the voltage at the wires and see which one is giving you the issue before spending the money on a new to you afm.

Now to hit on your BHG.. are you sure you have one? if you answered yes ok. a mhg is all well and good. But the machining it takes to have one installed correctly is not able to be done by you alone. (*unless your technically savvy.*) A cosmetic HG is completely fine, unless your trying to run say 20+ psi of boost. The amount of torque needed for the bolts are dictated by what type of oil, fastener you use. stranded stock bolts yes, 75. studs are like 90 or something idk check up on it. Tons of information out there and here on the required fastener/torque recommendations.

good luck
(edit, sorry for the crap punctuation, im tired and don't care..)

help with knock sensor
 

I need to know where the knock sensor is and how to rewire it to get rid of the knock senosr code.

My suggestion....by a ishino headgasket set. Its a cosmetic hg and its basically wat was originally used. I fixed my bhg with that, and don't buy arp head bolts...buy the studs! The studs is a massive overkill, but there going to be like....maybe $15 more then bolts. Machine the head....and have it chemically bathed. That is a must no matter wat hg u buy. If u go cosmetic....go to autozone or andvanced, buy this purpleish colored wire/sand paper junk. Buy it so it can go on the end of a drill. Use that on the block and clean the crap out of it. Don't be scared to get a little fierce with it..just my advice if ur gonna do it.

Um.... No. The stock HG was a graphite composite HG; Cometic is a multi-layer steel HG and requires significantly more prep of both block and head.

cosmetic....as in not metal....lots of people refer to the stock hg as a cosmetic hg...simply because its not metal. rarely ever hear anyone call it a graphite hg. Either metal multi-layered steel hg, or a cosmetic/composite hg.

I've never heard anyone refer to a hg as "Cosmetic", unless they're referring to the Cometic gasket and they spelled it incorrectly.

cos·met·ic /k?zˈmetik/
Adjective: Involving or relating to treatment intended to restore or improve a person's appearance.
Noun: A product applied to the body, esp. the face, to improve its appearance.


So, in a nutshell, "Cosmetic" does not refer to a non-metal hg

thats wat ive heard...no need to start trolling around on the forums....

You're mistaken and stubborn, deaf or listening to retards... I couldn't care less which. MLS (Multi-Layer Steel of which there are a few different types), graphite composite aka just composite (which have a steel shim as a base), asbestos, and single layer copper are all TYPES of HG. COMETIC is a manufacturer of HGs; The only HG they make for the 7M is MLS and it also happens to be the most forgiving of higher surface roughness.

There's no such thing as a cosmetic HG; Unless you think a single layer copper, shim type is nice and purdy (which they are when new). If you'd search Google a bit you'll find that the results which aren't automatically corrected to "Cometic" are generally forum discussions in which the person is corrected in short order.

And we're not trolling... we're trying to ensure that information posted is as accurate as possible.

Just saying wat I've heard...lawl...