New mk3 trying to learn a bit
 

This is what my engine bay looks like. The guy I got it from says it was like that when he git it. I was hoping someone may recognize a few parts as I don't really know what's been done to it. Also, I was curious to see if a boost leak could cause a loss if oil pressure, cause the turbo to smoke a bit, and eventually cause the car to shut off. Any and all coments are welcome. This is my first supra and hopefully I can make it work for me.

Also, what are these? They had white smoke coming from them earlier. Does something belong there? (The two holes)

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...spx?F=1201&P=2

They are the nipples for the pcv hoses that run to the intake. The bad thing is that by having them uncovered it allows for dirt to have a chance to fall inside the motor. Its to bad cars get people doing mods on them that are from a gain in performance.

Thanks. I appreciate it.

You might have some electrical problems in the future if you don't put a shield or a blanket on the turbo. It looks like it's cooking the wiring harness in that picture.
Fix the pcv system, clean up the sloppy wiring and it looks like a really good start. Those parts aint cheap. Hopefully whoever put all the upgrades on it put some good stuff inside it too.
Seriously, fix that wiring.

Thanks. I didn't notice that. In the morning, I'll take care of the wires and the boost leak. I think my intercooler pipe came off but its also losing oil pressure. That's my main concern.

If you think you are losing pressure, look up the correct specs and install a mechanical oil pressure gauge and check it to make sure it's not a gauge issue.
If it is a gte block, the engine uses a low pressure oil system. I think at idle oil pressure is only around 5psi when hot.

Its normal psi till it gets warm and then it'll drop pressure and shut off.

So the car wont idle when warm? The oil pressure drops when it is stalling from an idle? Your oil pressure is not causing your car to shut off, your car shutting off is causing your oil pressure drop. Sounds like when it goes into closed loop its not idling.
Time to check for codes. Welcome to the "what the kcuf is wrong with my car now??" game. Round one.

Lol... how do I go about checking my codes? If I put breathers where the holes are, do you think that it'd work or do you think it'd be best to get the vacuum lines that go to the intake? Also I'm getting white smoke on the turbo where the oil line meets. Almost like there's a leak but I'm not seeing a leak unless its on the motor side. Also, my intercooler boot came off. Idk how long its been like that. Today is my first day to really inspect the car for myself.

I'm getting oil in my intercooling pipe.

The way the ct26 is put together, the bearings and seals, even when brand new, tend to leak oil into the intercooler piping, eventually letting the oil rest in the intercooler. Use gasoline and clean it all out. rince the piping and intercooler off afterwards and reattach to the car. Good luck.

Carlos


Ps. I almost painted my intake manifold black... Now that i see the end result, im happy i did'nt!!!:dance:

Thanks. Will do? How do I tell if I have a CT26? It says a/r .70.

That's no ct26.
Checking codes is in the faq section.
Breathers would be better than nothing but a nice functional catch can setup would be ideal.
Oil leaking from that line on top of your turbo will burn off quickly so it may not look like it's leaking. Make sure that fitting is tight. While you're at it make sure ALL the fittings and hoses are tight.
A leaking intercoler pipe will cause the car to run like crap, fix it.
Oil in the intercooler is not uncommon but excessive oil in the intercooler might mean the turbo is about to check out.
Keep at it, it gets worse before it gets better but after some time, research and money it will get better.

I'm hoping to find a write up on the oil pump. If anyone knows of any I would greatly appreciate it. Also, we discovered an oil leak around the pump area. Do you think that could be it?

man I see mods and relocates galore.. Your best bet is to park it. strip it and put it back together piece by piece, going over it with a fine tooth comb, fixing, cleaning and sorting inch by inch. looks like some ebay parts made their way into your engine bay. While there's nothing wrong with that, looks as tho he got in a hurry and didn't really care what it looked like in there.
oh a word of advice, before you go unhooking wires...mark them, for the love of god. put tape on the wires and write it down on a piece of paper or something so you know were that guy had them.

You still haven't posted the actual oil pressure you are getting. I would highly recommend sorting out the wiring and vacuum line disaster and performing a few basic engine health tests before doing anything drastic. As Green said, it looks like someone was in a hurry and just didn't care about the outcome. It may be well worth it to take some time, learn what everything is and start cleaning it up. Start on one side of the engine and work your way around.
Check you're actual oil pressure before tearing into the engine.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...Section=LU&P=4

Looking at your pictures and reading that an IC pipe boot came off, you have numerous entry points for dirt, into your engine.
You may very well have a dusted engine which will account for the loss of engine oil pressure.
A turbo in good condition will not leak oil past the seals. The stock PCV system for the 7MGTE, routes the vented gas into the intake, which carries oil vapor and will coat the IC and pipes with oil.
Since your PCV plumbing has been removed, oil currently is not being dumped into your IC by the PCV.
Your turdo seals could be shot and allowing engine oil into the compressor section of the turbo and being pushed into the IC system.

This could also explain a drop in oil pressure.

Thank you. I started my tear down. I'm cleaning thing up a bit and trying to see what I see that needs work. I ordered my oil pump but it won't be here till Wednesday. I'm checking all lines and seals. There is an oil leak. But I can't tell where its coming from. It literally sprayed my radiator when I had the car running yesterday. I was trying to see if there were any other things I could notice. I went and got some purple power so that I can clean it up a bit and it'll be easier for me to find. Anything else I should check while im at it?

Okay so I found a few wires that have no ends and one wire tucks back in. My head lights are permanently on. My power in the car is run through a switch next to the ignition. It originally had a clutch fan but my fan are also ran from that switch. That explains the loose wires. Is there a diagram that shows me which wires are which? I intend to solder the wires and do a shrink wrap. Any suggestions or other ideas of how to do it right without replacing all wires?

Oil pressure is normal until oil gets warm. 45-50 at 3k and about 5 when at idol. Then when its warm it drops and when it drops, the car shuts off. Then it'll start right back up but the second I give it any gas, it shuts off. There no noise coming from the motor even when its running warm. I have boost, oil, and water gauges.

One thing at a time. First figure out why the car is dying. Have you run the diagnostic check for codes yet? Did you find and fix the boost leak?

I fixed the boost leak. And it was only throwing an o2 sensor with diagnostics.

Well, there ya go. O2 sensor readings are only used in closed loop (when its warmed up). Does it even have an oxygen sensor? Is it hooked up?

How does the o2 sensor work? I just tried googling it and I foud a lot but nothing really eccplains it.

I was just looking and I couldn't find my sensor. I don't think it has one. But I did find my oil leak on my turbo, and that there's a plate missing on my dowpipe that goes to my cat.

That's your wastegate, you can bolt a turndown pipe there if you can fit one.
That oil leak is not good, spray it down with some brake parts cleaner to clean it up. Next time you run the engine, check to see where the "fresh" oil is coming out of.
The lack of an o2 sensor might be whats causing it to stall. Is it using the stock computer? It should be mounted above the glovebox under the dash.

I found it. Its broke and one wire wasn't connected on it. I connected them and I'm waiting on it warm up. The check engine is is out but when I was letting it warm it came back on. I think it is a stock Ecu. It is fresh oil coming out of it but it only comes out when I give it gas.

Any ideas on the turbo fix ir is it just done?

Depends on what's leaking on the turbo. If it's coming from one of the fittings or flanges, you can fix it. If its coming from between the bearing housing and the compressor housing then it's time for a rebuild.
The computer will have identification labels if it is a toyota one. Is it idling with the O2 sensor hooked up now? Check codes again, it may have a different code now.

No codes yet. It was driving fine for a min but the toggle switch for the power went. I'm about to head to advanced to to grab one. Wish me luck.

In your last photos:

1) Fuel resistor pack relay connector. This is normally run to a relay which switches the fuel pump power to a resistor pack to help lower fuel pressure at low loads. It's commonly deleted with aftermarket pumps although this requisite has been largely disproved.

2) and 4) A pre89 ECU hacked into an '89+ chassis?

3) The HAC sensor connector. The HAC sensor is used by the ECU to account for changes in altitude. If you live near sea-level and don't drive in different elevations you may bypass it with a couple resistors, otherwise pick one up (used or new). In '89+ ECUs it is internal. See the diagram linked to below for the HAC bypass resistor values (Just a box on the side):
http://www.fadingworld.com/CRE/Autom...087-88-r21.jpg

That is one terrifying wiring job and the mods appear to be half-assed at best... I wouldn't have bought it for anything more than parts.

Would you say it'd be best just to sell it? Or would you say its a pricey fix if I do the labor?

That's up to you. If you like the car, then keep it and fix it. If you're not too into the supra, sell it before anything else breaks. Remember, it's a "highly sophisticated" 20+ year old car and yours has been obviously butchered by someone. It will take time, research and money to build a nice mk3 supra, probably more than you'll wish to spend. It will be pricey no matter who does the work, in the end you get more for your money doing the work yourself. If the body and interior are nice, I would fix it up for sure.