I think I saw that right up....throttle linkage would be tricky as off idle would be a bit touchy, and that much TB I think is to much, and could be that 3/4 throttle is acutally WOT since the motor cant really suck any more!

was that ever finished? i saw the beginning thread several months ago, but no update to show the finished product.

Bigger throttle body on an N/A will most likely result in a more sluggish throttle response. Air velocity is higher the narrower the aperture but at a lower volume (You get the air in there faster and it's cooler). Air is charge is denser but also slower with a larger aperture... it's also in there sitting over the engine longer. Tune your intake for your needs. Physics my man, physics... and while we're on that subject, go ahead and put back the Helmholtz resonator that I'm sure you're also missing.

I have never really looked into the resonator...I was told long ago that it quieted the stock intake piping down for quiet operation. Im actually running 3 inch IC piping over to the AFM in the fender/core support junction.

So on the subeject, what about the pace setter headers I see on Ebay, 3-1, 2-1 setup. My stock 5mge manifold is cracked (fits the frame rails better than the 7mge did) Im thnking I can get it to fit in there.

Yes, it quiets things down a little... but that's not the entire (or arguably the primary) reason for it... I've posted exhaustively on this in the past, research it a bit... then put it back on. ;) To put it simply: It quiets things down by reducing turbulence. Put it on at about the same distance from the throttle body as it is in the stock location.

I hope that air filter isn't in the engine bay... (or a K&N filter... :barf: especially on an off-road vehicle)

Barring significant machine work you're not going to get much more out of the 7M-GE than Toyota already managed to squeeze out of it in the Supra version. Even with it you won't see amazing results, I know people who've bored the engine to its limit, put in stroker kits and custom cams, over sized valves and still don't even see 300RWHP. The 7M is just a poor 'all-motor' platform. I wouldn't really go beyond a port and polish, properly tuned intake and exhaust for your build, as cool (ceramic coated intake plumbing and inlet OUTSIDE of the engine bay) and smooth of an intake charge as possible. Don't run higher octane fuel than you need. Run the right temp range spark plugs (hotter plugs are NOT just magically better). Stop me if you already know all of this... :P Adding a thermostatically controlled oil cooler is a VERY good idea. If you're willing to sacrifice your highway mileage (:rofl2:) a shorter end-gear would help a lot. Cams are a biggie naturally but keep an eye on the profile as the off-the-shelf aftermarkets are generally designed with the GTE in mind.

There are no excellent exhausts for the GE out there. You may try the Pacesetter or OBX, they'll both benefit from better scavenging as long as the rest of your exhaust is properly tuned for it (see: the right size piping for the job).

Well I need one, so I think Ill get that pacesetter header and give it a try. I got my 65mm throttle all done, well just need to weld on the fingers for the TPS, but it all fits up.

Ill tune the AFM with a wideband and dial it all in as well.

Im expecting my NA intake anyday.

Do I need to make a vacuum canister to operate it, or just plum it into the plenum itself? I can take some 3 inch intercooler piping and cap the ends and tap for some fittings if need be.

Im reading on that Hemholtz resonator....sounds very interesting.

http://i816.photobucket.com/albums/z...623_164440.jpg

http://i816.photobucket.com/albums/z...623_164452.jpg

http://i816.photobucket.com/albums/z...623_164524.jpg

Bumping this thread since all the relevant info is here. Finally got all the oodd projects done and have spent the past week tiding up the supra manul ecu swap over the auto cressida. Have the n/a intake and the vsv valve all wired up. I got the speed signal from the dash wired over and am about an hours way worth of work to starting this thing back up.

My question is, the ecu has a pinout for the clutchswitch, and the brake switch. Are these necesary inputs for proper operation? Is there a function ill lose by not hooking them up?

I did some research and found autoshop101.com to be very imformative. Neither is actually needed, but the clutch switch 0/12+ helps determine the proper idle speed based on other inputs and the brake switch modifes fuel cut rpm. Ill get these hooked up in a few weeks, but now I can tool around town knowing the ecu wont be thinking the wrong things.

So got the truck fired up today. Pretty much like I shut it off yesterday, but its been 10 months and an intake/ecu wap later! Have my wideband installed and the thing ran really lean at idle. I played with the flapper door bypass screw and rotated the spring setting. At first it had a hard time idleing lean in the 17's for afr, had to loosen the door to get it to come down to low 15's at idle, but now the door is so loose the arm does not turn the fuel pump off anymore?

Seems weird since Im running an 87 ecu which is tuned around the 295cc injectors, and I have the later Cressida 315cc injectors. Base timing is at 10*, TPS is properly setup by grabbing the voltages at the ECU.

Im going to get it out on the road tomorrow to see how it drives, and tune the afm more. Ill be checking the VF signal and keeping an eye on AFR's while cruising to try and target the 2.5 volt VF (zero fuel trim) and see what wot is as well. Im bothered by the idle tune at this point.

Is there anyway I can wire in a heated O2 and have closed loop idle, or does the early (87 ecu) not go closed loop idle?

One more question. How is the crankcase vent supposed to be routed on an NA setup. Mine is setup like the Turbo system, gos from the valve coves to the TB so full engine vacuum is on the case at all times. There is a restrictor inline in the system like stock too. There is so much vacuum in my case that I get seal squeel, at first it sounded like a throwout bearing going bad. So for the last couple years I have had a small hole drilled into the fill cap. I dont think this is enough to significally lean out the mixture, but it is unmetered air.

Everything is good. i went ahead and vented the motor to atmosphere to rid of the vacuum leak. I swapped out AFM's and that solved the door closing problem. And was able to get it tuned off the wideband and the VF feedback. Took one tooth richer than the virgin afm was setup for. It idles at 15.5, cruised closed loop around 15.0 and under wide open throttle, it dips to a 12.5 to 12.3. Seems to have a bit better off idle tq than the Cressida setup too. Now just to drive it and see the mileage I get.