JZ Code 14 IGf signal Help please!
 

Hey guys. I'm gettin a code 14 on my 1jz. I checked capacitors and they are good! It will fire up for half a second then shut off. And I get the code 14 I know its not a 2j but they share the same codes and components. I have repaired the coils with nail polish and thick heat shrink and they were working excellent not cutting out at all. I was Jus driving slow getting out of the base when it shut off. I have checked fuel pump and wiring neither is faulty. Any suggestions would be great. The $4 a gallon is killing me in my truck!

Does anyone kno how to test a 2jz igniter?

Unfortunately, there's no way to test it. If your ecu signal, coils and plugs are all good, you have to borrow/buy/steal(just kidding)/etc. another ignitor and swap it out.

OK so I did a continuity test on the wiring to the ecu to the igniter IGf signal wire (red-blue) and it checks good! I then was tryin to check for voltage goin into the ecu... I'm not sure exactly how the IGf signal is suppose to be. But as soon as I turn the key to "on" I get a solid 5.0v. To me that doesn't sound right. I kno 5v is its operating voltage but shouldn't it only give voltage when the igniter is giving a feedback signal and not when key is Jus in on position?

The supra community is very small here in Utah. And especially for 1j or 2j. So the only way I could try it is by buying one. Which if it comes to that I will I just want to try and narrow it down to either ecu or igniter. The ecu on 1j are very problematic but usually its just the caps that go out and when they get replaced they usually work again. But it is not unheard of for it to go out completely. I have had it apart and traced the wire tracks and everything seems to be in order with no corrosion from melted caps anywhere. The only ecu for a 1j I can get is either oem used from Japan for $650 bucks or a standalone. I was planning on goin with an EMS stinger but thats $900 plus dyno tune. I wanted to wait till I had bigger injectors before i did that so I didn't have to re-tune when I do. And right at this moment thanks to the beautiful tax system I owe them 1k this yr so money is tight.

I appreciate the help. Do you think the 5v out of the igniter feedback constant is normal?

I ordered a 2j igniter for $65 so we will see in a few days!

I agree that the 5v constant signal out of the ignitor seems abnormal.
Wow that's a great price. A brand-new 2jz-gTe ignitor should be over $400 iirc (are you sure you have the correct partnumber? :dunno: )... Either way, I sure hope this corrects the issue for you!

Yes, it was a used part! But unfortunately that was not my problem, it did the same thing?? so I was lucky enough to find an ecu for 300 shipped. I'm almost positive this is the problem. If not i can always resale it for atleast what I paid.

I did recheck my coils and plugs everything checks good and is within limits. So I will let ya kno if the ecu resolves this issue! There is really nothing else that is related to the Igf circuit!

Oh BTW. I have a 97 tt igniter for sale!

sorry travis I would really like to help but I know jack shit about 1jz's. So im not even going to attempt to chime in.. this is the only thread on page 1 that dosnt have a post by me in it.. OH, this one and one other but I dont think that guy was speaking english.

Haha. You crack me up Green....

I ordered my ecu from kaizen motorsports. I was hoping to see it today but no luck. hopefully tomorrow.

What do ya think bout the swap thou? As you can see my stock twins took a shit 2k after I had it rolling. So I went with the sick ass driftmotion kit!

i dont know man. I would love to get my hands on a driftmotion turbo but my savings keep on going to other things..

all in all im Green, with envy. lucky bastard. :bigthumb: way to go man.

Is the ecm suppose to supply the IGF wire w/ a full time volage and look for a ground interruption when it gets fire?

No, based off of my research it is normal to see 5v output from the ecu to igniter. But the igniter internally varies the resistance that the ecu translate into confirmation that the spark that it sent a signal out of the igt actually occurred. The only way to verify this is with a o-scope. Which basically shows a graph of the voltage variance! There is not a DMM on the market anywhere near fast enough to pick up the crazy small voltage variance!

But on a good note........... SHE IS ALIVE! I got the new ecu put in and it fired right up and runs like a champ again! Damn POS 1j ecus. This way I can save up for the new AEM standalone for the 1j driftmotion Jus got! Cause I kno this ecu will also fail eventually! Thanks for your help guys!