Oil in Spark Plug Wells
 

So I've got a ton of oil in my spark plug wells, enough to submerge all 6 of my plugs. I've researched around this and other forums and think I've got it; I'm replacing my valve cover gaskets and No. 3 cylinder head cover bolts with new gaskets, which seems to cover both possibilities of where the oil's coming up from.

My question is about the No. 3 cylinder head cover. Is that just the plate that's running down between the two valve covers? If that's what it is, mine is in rough shape as you can see from the photo It's been flaking off and getting everywhere.

I got the info about the No. 3 head cover and bolts from this post, can anyone tell me if I'm on the right track or forgetting something major? This is really my first venture into engine work. Thanks much!

Couldn't get the photo to embed, so here's a link if anyone's interested: http://flickr.com/gp/25598754@N00/LGGe58

Yes you are on the right track. You can do away with the No. 3 cover if you wish and use some sort of sealer on the treads that is compatable with oil to seal the allen head plugs. Also if you didn't see it already:

http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...ng-in-oil.html

The cover in the middle is just for looks. When my motor was rebuild Mine was flaKing to so They just left it off.

Thanks for the quick replies guys, one more quick question; are the gaskets connecting the air intake > throttle body > y-pipe re-usable, or do I need to replace them?

No they are not reusable.

The #3 cover is NOT for looks! New, it's a rubber coated gasket with a steel core, as it ages the plastic hardens and cracks. It is there as a backup against the valve cover seals leaking oil to prevent it from draining down there. It's also there to keep out debris (fine dirt and sand) from getting in where you cannot reach it to clean it out when you go to pull the spark plugs... sand and other grit in the cylinder is.... anyone? anyone?..... BAD!

Jebus... the shit people decide is "just there for looks" is amazing... the whole engine bay looks like a cluttered disaster and you think they're worried about a galley which you can't see unless the ENTIRE intake has been removed? Are you f@#$ing serious?

Oh, and the #3 IS the gasket for those 4 plugs.

The gasket for the throttle body (the factory one) is a multilayer steel gasket and you bet your tooshy it's reusable. The paper ones may be reused, but I recommend a very light spray gasket dressing if you're intent on reusing them.

That's it. I quit. Have fun misleading each other... Here's one more good one about the #3 which hasn't been mentioned: "It's useless and you'll get some weight reduction from removing it." HAH!!! That's an old favorite.



<walks off grumbling and looking for that damned bottle of xanax>

Thanks Cre, so you'd recommend replacing the #3 itself and not worrying about individual gaskets for the four 14mm bolts?

Show me where in Toyota's parts catalog they list individual gaskets for those bolts please, because I've been missing it...

Here's the page:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...spx?F=1104&P=1

Do whatever you like, just do it with an understanding as to why or why not you are really doing it.

Yeah, I want to understand what I'm doing as well. You're right, I wouldn't expect to find the individual bolt gaskets in the Toyota catalog. I read on the post that I linked in my first post that the #3 cover has a built in gasket that seemed (to that guy) to be a bad design. He recommended bringing one of those 14mm bolts in to the parts shop and matching it up with an oil plug gasket since that's where the oil is coming up from.

I appreciate your responses, I'm definitely new to this and would like to get different opinions. Thanks again!

The only thing on them for a gasket is a crush washer like the type used for an oil drain plug. If you use the use some sort of liquid gasket on the threads before you reinstall them they won't leak anymore. But as for the need of the cover, I don't understand why cre would get so upset. I don't use mine anymore so I can see if any of the plugs do start to leak again. But the cover does not stop oil or coolant from still getting in the valley and besides there is nothing that the cover covers that is that important. Also what debris is going to get in there anyway unless you are driving offroad with the hood off.

Ok, I've got a follow-up issue now. While trying to remove the 3/4" hose from the No. 1 head cover, the hose tore. It was crazy brittle, so I'm glad I'm in there and can replace it now, but what is it? It travels from right next to the oil cap down to the block, but I can't find the thing on the Cygnus site.

I also heard something small and metallic fall down below when the hose tore, and it wasn't the hose clamp....any thoughts?

Thanks again!

I think it's the crank case vent hose

As Sonyps307 said " crank vent hose # 3" Toyota part # 12263-42010, judging by your description is sounds like the hose clamp fell down, although you did say it wasn't the hose clamp.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b56/cirgriff/2004.jpg

Awesome, thanks guys that definitely looks like the one, and I'm still guessing as to what fell down...

That looks identical, though it says it's for the turbo. There's no reason why it wouldn't work for the 7mge, right?

Also, I haven't had any luck finding a neoprene oil gasket/washer big enough for the No. 3 bolts. What's the general consensus on using some O-rings smeared with RTV? I'm not trying to do things quick and dirty, but the local shops haven't been much help and I'd really like to get this all together before the weekend.

All you have to do is pull out each plug and clean the threads. Then put enough rtv on the threads so it pushes out the top as you screw it back in creating a nice seal. Like the with the oil pan there is no need to really use a gasket. But if want a washer you can search for the type used for an oil drain plug. But the rtv way does work and will be clean if you do it right.

Alright, I was gone for a week but then got back to this project. I got everything back together, new gaskets, rtv on the 14mm bold threads, new vent hose, etc. There was a 17mm nut left over that I could not find a home for, the only 17mm that I remember was attaching the alternator. Any thoughts on where I might have missed something?

I started the truck up (my 7mge is in an 86 4Runner) and burned out some oil that had dropped down into the cylinders when I removed the old plugs. It missed a few times, but after about a block the smoke was gone and she was running smooth. I checked the gaskets and the bolts and saw no oil coming in, and all seemed right with the world.

BUT - Today I was driving out of town up a fairly steep hill going about 60, and the truck suddenly felt like I'd dropped into neutral. The engine was still going, but I was getting no forward motion from any of the gears. I pulled onto the shoulder and it died. It'll start every time now, but only run for a few seconds before dying.

Is there anything that I might have done wrong in the gasket/spark plug replacing that could account for this? I'm nearly positive that I put all of the vacuum hoses back together properly and reattached the throttle correctly, but I suppose I could have made a mistake. I'm pretty bummed after spending a good bit of money and time on this project, so any advice would be truly appreciated. Thanks!

Any diagnostic codes? If not than I'd start with testing the fuel pressure and testing the AFM.

Thanks Cre, sadly no codes. Can you recommend a good source explaining how to check that stuff? If not I can google around.

Testing procedure for a of the EFI system:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...ection=FI&P=30

AFM specific section:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...ection=FI&P=94

Fuel system:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...ection=FI&P=70

lawl. Did anyone mention they could use an oil drain plug gasket? if so, sorry for the repost.. wtf isnt this in the faq too?

sure is
http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...ark-plugs.html

I just replaced the crank case vent hose.. 45bucks from champion.
Only thing to remember is to not over tighten the alternator belt.

Update: I haven't had time to research how to check the EFI, but I did check the codes again and found that I've got a code 43. Looks like ignition switch circuit, ignition switch, or the ECU.

Anyone come across this one and had luck with anything in particular?

throttle cable?:uh:

http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...ded-supra.html

http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...-and-43-a.html

Throttle cable seems alright, it's not hanging loose or anything. Is there something in particular to check there?

I disconnected the battery and pulled the ECU out to take a look at it and reset it. When I put it all back together, no codes, but now it isn't starting at all. It cranks fine, but nothing after that.

I'd like to test the ECU, but I'm kind of confused by the Cygnus site. Do I pull the ECU totally out and use a multimeter on it then, or am I testing the plug ends that plug into the ECU?

Thanks!

tampering with the brains of the car isnt the best idea if were unsure of the outcome / process.

thing with the throttle cable is just it being slack not giving you enough rpms with the peddle to the floor.. would explain your power loss right?

make sure you put the ecu back in correctly. I've removed mine a couple times. You dont need to remove it to reset it, d/c the battery is enough. Just removing the negative cable for a few minutes is enough to reset it. Your car was working fine just a few moments ago yes? just a code 43 that could of been easily checked / replaced.

yes you have the ecu connected (plugged in) and your checking the pins. w/ the key turned to ON
damn you did d/c the battery before removing the ecu right? just precautions there. Its a stout piece of electronics that usually dosn't go bad. make sure you have the connectors in the right spots. But IIRC there all different sizes.. make sure there pushed in fully man.

Sorry, I've just been assuming that everyone has read the entire thread. Long story short, I replaced my valve cover gaskets and sealed the No. 3 cylinder head cover bolts b/c I had oil leaking into my spark plug wells. Once I got everything together (with new spark plugs), on my third drive on the fix, I suddenly lost all power like I'd shifted into neutral. The engine was still running and hitting the gas pushed the RPMs, but I had no go. I eventually came to a stop and the engine died.

Once I got towed home, the engine would start normally, but die after a few seconds. Hitting the gas would increase the RPMs for those few seconds, but it would still die. I then checked the codes again today and got the 43.

Honestly I don't remember if I'd d/c the battery before I took out the ECU. Did I do a stupid thing there? I guess I don't understand how you get the points of the meter into the pins while they're plugged with....the plugs.

Having heard the whole story, do you have any thoughts?

Thanks for taking the time to respond, I really appreciate it. I would love to hand this off to a mechanic near me, but folks won't touch my truck because of all the customization with the 7mge and all.

d/c battery
remove ecu connectors
remove LOCKS
Reconnect ecu
reconnect battery
turn power to on
place tester leads.

Sorry, what are LOCKS? If they are the plastic connectors that lock the wires to the ECU, how do you remove them?

One time I forgot to hook the vacuume hose up that comes from the power steering pump and connects to bottom of the intake, the engine would start and than die in about a second maby check to see if the hose fell out.

Thanks for the suggestion Shadow, but I don't see any vacuum hoses coming from my power steering pump and I don't remember tracing anything that I took off of the intake back to the pump. ???

Can anyone give me a more detailed how-to on testing the ECU? I feel like I'm missing something glaringly obvious, but I don't get how you place the tester leads into a plugged in ECU.

Any help or resources would be great, thanks again.