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7M GTE ignition timing guide needed...
Hi there
i need some advice on the sequence that the ignition leads go. Can anyone tell me what cyclinder the leads go from the ignition packs...? example... if looking at the coil packs from the top and the turbo is on the left hand side and the intake is on the right hand side ignition coil 1 goes to which cyclinder and so on.... It would be great if anyone has the answer. Thanks |
Number 1 at the front, then 2,3,4,5 and 6 at the rear.
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...CoilPackA4.jpg |
hi
Ah thats brilliant Bill. Thanks for your help. At least i can get my car done now over the weekend.
Thanks again..... |
I don’t know if you know this, but if you look at the coil pack photo, you will only see 3 coil modules. That’s because the Supra 7M-GTE operates a wasted spark system. One coil for two HT Leads (or wires as they say in the US) So when No 1 sparks, 6 will also spark as a wasted spark. The same applies to 3 - 4 and 2 – 5. That’s why when you use a strobe meter to set the timing you don’t need to connect the strobe induction lead to No 1 spark lead, you can use No 6 instead. This will save the trouble of removing the black plastic coil pack cover trim to gain access to No 1 lead. This doesn’t apply to the 7M-GE with a conventional distributor, use No I spark lead to connect the strobe light.
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hi
Hi Bill, Yes i read that also about the strobe light being applied to ignition lead 6.
The problem that i have is that the car starts but the idle is very rough. So, i need to recheck the ignition and also the CPS and the full timing to make sure that everything is correct. That way i can eliminate most possible issues with the engines timing. What i am going to do is the following to set up my timming: 1 Open up the oil cap and turn the engine so that piston 1 is TDC. This can be done looking down the oil hole over looking piston 1. 2 Make sure that the exhuast and intake cam shafts are pointing to the markings on the back plate (if that makes sense). 3 The crank shaft pulley is pointing to 10 degrees. 4 Make sure CPS is inserted in correctly. Then when that is all set and lets assume we have the ignition leads in correctly. then start the engine and use the strobe to make the timing perfect. I hope i can get this car working as it should be.... loads of fun to drive hmmmm Thanks |
Quote:
Also, be sure to install the cps with the crank at 0?, not at 10? BTDC. |
hi
Hi, thanks for that information. I will try that over the weekend and fingers crossed it will be ok.
I have the haynes manual and other manuals too so if i get stuck i have some kind of reference to assist me as well as this site. Wish me luck ..lol |
The crank shaft pulley marking should be at 0 (zero) not 10 degrees. Its only when the pins in the check connector box are linked and the engine is ticking over will the pulley be at 10 degrees. To check no 1 piston is at top dead center I normally remove the No1 spark plug and insert a thin wooden dowel rod.
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thanks bill..... your correct it should be at zero and NOT 10 degrees - my fault.... need booze brain slooooow
I normally use that method that you told me to find TDC, spark plug 1 out, insert long rod and turn engine till you get TDC. Thanks |
Thinking about it, inserting a dowel into the piston to check TDC is a waste of time. You could be on the exhaust stroke or compression stroke depending on the cam position and crank markings. btwilson86 is the correct way.
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hi
Actually you are right about using the stick in cyclinder 1 method to check TDC, you could be looking at something that is 180 degrees out and that wont work will it.
So, using this stick method as well as what BTWilson86 has said is the best method i think. Fingers crossed hey lol |
It's not a waste of time if you're just checking to see if the balancer is inaccurate, but unless you've also got the upper timing cover off so you can verify the cam timing, yes, it's not going to tell you a whole lot.
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hi
Hi there
I am still having some issues with my timing and due to that the car is idling eractly. To explain what i have done: a) Crank shaft aligned to the Zero Mark. b) Intake and exhust cams are aligned to the nothe on the back cover. c) If you remove the oil cover you can see the intake cam pointing the way it should. d) The CPS is aligned as it should be ie drilled hole aligned with notch on CPS shaft. This should be the correct way to get the timing correct. But, for some reason the car idles eractly and sometimes back fires. Any suggestions as what to do here ? Thanks:( |
hi
Hi there
Just to recap on the situation regarding my cars timing etc... If i followed the instructions in the guide ie crank shaft pulley at zero, cams aligned at the notches etc and the no 1 piston is at TDC and the cps is inserted correctly, ie aligned with the grove and notch.... the car dosnt start, when its does start its running very rough and misfires etc ... NOW, if i was to get all the settings back to normal agian, like crank shaft at zero, cam shafts aligned etc etc and then turn the CPS 180 degrees the cars starts fine with no issues. This is not the method in any guide i have seen. Can anyone or has anyone seen this situation before,....?? I have started the car and even set the timing using strobe light to 12 degrees etc. Can anyone help on this ..? Cheers |
The car shouldn\'t even run if the CPS is 180? off. First off, when you installed the cam gears, which holes did you use for alignment with the dowels? You need to use the center ones, they\'re not all drilled for the same placement.
Also, if you use a dowel to locate TDC and find that it doesn\'t match the marks on the harmonic balancer you need to black out the original mark and make a new one at the real TDC. There\'s a thread in the FAQ about setting timing and what the marks look like. Look it over, for some reason people try to set the CPS using the dowel as their marker which is way off. I suppose that if the CPS was rebuilt is could have been clocked wrong when re-assembled. If you take off the CPS\' cover I believe the rotor should be clocked to the 1 o\'clock position. http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...-e-timing.html |
hi
Hi there
I have followed all the guides that there are for the setup of the timing etc I will just explain in detail what has been done so far with the alignments etc.. a) The crank shaft is set at ZERO. b) No 1 cyclinder is at TDC. I have checked this by inserting a stick making sure that the piston is at its highest point. c) The cam shafts have been installed with the PIN in the middle of the holes. d) The cam shafts have been aligned with the notches on the backplate. e) The CPS was inserted into the head where the notch was aligned to the hole on the CPS. When i tried starting the car the engine sounded rough and back fired etc etc . When i checked the timing using a strobe light the timing was miles out.... and i could not correct it by turning the CPS. So i repeated all the steps upto step e). At this point the CPS was reinserted but it had been turned about (approx) 180 degrees. The car started first time and sounded good too. I let it warm up and then after ten mins i checked the timing with the strobe gun and managed to set it to 12 degrees with no problems. Not really sure what the issue could be and not even sure i the CPS has been rebuilt wrong etc. I have checked the CPS and TPS to see what readings i get from them and they all seem fine and within recommended tollerences. So, what else can i try ...? Cheers |
Sounds familiar: 180 degrees, Link see the paragraph just below the 16th picture paging down.
CAUTION: The gear must be put back on the correct way. It has a 13 tooth wheel, so you can be 180 degrees off and really screw up. The TSRM describes how to align the gear properly. Basically you point the reluctor at G1, and then put on the gear so that the little hole lines up with the slot in the CPS housing. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...ion=IG&Page=23 |
Hi
Hi Bill
i have checked my CPS and its not leaking at all. The gears are in good condition also. I dont think i need to touch the CPS in anyway. After all it was working fine before the head gasket blew and had to be replaced. Perhaps the previous owner moved things around in the CPS ...who knows. I will try to get hold of another CPS to test in the car. If that works then i know its my CPS that was wrong. However, i have taken resistance measurements and they all seem fine - within the allowed tollerences that toyota recommends. Not sure what else to try now.... Thanks |
Sounds like the gear has been installed 180 degrees out of position on the shaft; the only drawback is when you install the CPS (as you said) you need to turn the gear 180 degrees to compensate. Found this photo below of a CPS when the notches are line-up. Personally I would leave it as it is; it’s only the grove/hole on the gear/shaft that would be wrong for installation.
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b56/cirgriff/CPS2.jpg |
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