7mgte, Never problem free
 

My engine is running fine, it sounds really good and the turbo spools all the way up like its suppose to. But starting today when I hit the gas the engine light comes on ( only when I'm moving does the engine light come on, when I'm sitting still and hit the gas it doesn't come on) and for some reason when I hit the gas while I'm driving the car doesn't seem to get all the power it should; The engine revs fine but it won't transfer the power to the ground and it takes a minute for the full power to come. I've already checked all the hoses around the turbo and there doesn't seem to be any leaks or holes or cuts.

Have you checked the stored diagnostics codes in the ECU yet? Instructions are posted in the FAQ section. I'm betting on a code 52 and possibly an AMF related code.

My 7mgte was swapped earlier on when I got it:And I'm missing some hoses and I have no idea what type of hoses they are and what their for. I seen a pic of a stock 7mgte and I seen the hoses I'm missing, but I need to know what they are and if they are necessary to have.They are the small hoses that go from under the air intake, to right beside the bov, then on the other side, it goes from somewhere on the valve cover to near the battery somewhere, sorry for the vague directions.Thanks. And I did find out (atleast I think so) that I probably have a vacuum leak after all.

Your title misleading
 

i thought your title said 7m-gte NO PROBLEMS....


and it was FREE and i thought you were giving it away lol

Photos might help. Are you talking about vacuum tubing, coolant hoses or PCV plumbing?

Yes, I will post some photos as soon as I can. They are vacuum hoses if I'm not mistaken, but they have never been there and it has never affected the car, I was just wondering why the hell don't I have them and if it IS really affecting the car and that I'm just too stupid to know it. Either or is a good possibility.

Here are the 7M-GTE hose diagrams from the TSRM all taken out and colored. ;)

http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/TechTips/vacuum_hose.aspx

Some of the hoses will affect operation in ways you won't notice much but they may make a significant difference in the efficiency of the engine. Others will make a fairly big difference which you may not realize as they were wrong from the beginning. It's worth the trouble to ensure they're all run properly and replace them while you're doing it. The OEM vacuum lines often become porous as they age and degrade (on top of hardening and cracking).

Wow! The hose diagram is awesome thanks a lot.

I found out that all the hoses I'm missing are Emissions Control hoses that didn't really matter in the first place, at least to me anyway. I thought about it and instead of buying some lowering springs, I'm going for some Godspeed coilovers and the cheapest place I've found is eBay for $600. If anyone knows of a better deal, please let me know.

Are you sure they don't matter? Some of them have extra benefits which you do want (like a cooler running engine).... but also, if some of those items are removed and the hoses aren't properly terminated it will screw things up and cost you power.

$600 for coilovers? Make sure they're rebuildable and you'll probably want to see if you can get the parts in bulk. ;)

my car did this too
 

it was the vsv its down below the intake its red thay go bad some times

What are you saying? You know he's missing a VSV and which one it is? Are you both in the same location?

There are two VSV's under the intake and the fuel pressure up VSV is quite important.... If it's missing he could be having a number of problems including damage from running lean. I can't remember the color of each, but new one is a brownish orange and the other is blue.

EDIT: Well, whichever parts you two have found are missing, be sure the vacuum system is properly routed to account for it and make sure that none of the missing parts are related to the fuel supply.

I'm missing the thermostat bvsv. And I am running rich. But from what I can tell the fuel vsv is intact and fine. The previous owner got rid of all the EGR hoses. You said earlier that it would effect the engine being cool, is that really true?

No, I lied... it's a hobby.




Yes I'm serious; It's what the EGR system does. The EGR system reduces emissions by reducing the temps in the combustion chamber... It also improves mileage on most vehicles today. In most vehicles it's off when you're driving at full throttle, so despite what you hear removing it usually doesn't provide any gain on modern vehicles. Anyway, EGR = lower combustion chamber temps = less frequent detonation and ping = higher spark advance = more power = the ability to run a lower octane fuel. Some markets didn't come with the EGR system (such as the JDM Supras); Their ECUs are tuned differently. A JDM ECU is strongly advised if you run without the EGR, but do know that they have a governor.

If the system was left in place but the vacuum lines weren't properly terminated or rerouted it could end up leaving the EGR valve open which would impact your vehicle's idle and the top end power. This is only if they left the EGR valve in place.

I'd find a replacement for the BVSV, running the charcoal canister purge directly into the intake lets a fair amount of pirate air into the system when it's cold and not really up to it.

Engine light comes on only when I start driving, took it to the shop and they said the engine is fine. It doesn't have any power at all. I did not know that JDM 7m's do not have the EGR systems, that explains a lot, cause I got a JDM 7mgte from Japan Star Motors and it came with its own ECU and wiring. But seriously my car will not go to save its own rotting existence.

there only one on my 89
 

so what your saying there is two bc i dont have 2 i have a red one and it run so goood

ok man
 

if you check the engine code if its the vsv it will say its the O2 siner im not saying that could be it but my supra was saying that ...and i put a outher O2 siner and it did nuthing i put a use vsv the red one:bigthumb:and it runs very good .. the code should blink 5 time and then pause for like 2 sc

Then explain to me, please, how it is that your photobucket account is in HIS name. It's not a common name you both speak the exact same breed of thinglish, your photobucket account is his name, you both log on via the same internet connection (and it's not a proxy, I've checked). I'm deciding how to handle this now.


EDIT: Sorry, I didn't understand... I was dialoging with your alter ego in another thread and thought this response was your reply to that. You've two accounts depending on how quickly you man up and PM me I may just not complete ban you from this site and only close one of the accounts. The other account is Josiah1989.

I think I missed something. What are you guys talking about? So the o2 sensor will take away half of my power? That's what is happening to my car. I have a 87 N/A mk3 and I'm parting it out. Let me know if there is something you need.
I'm also in the process of getting a rack and pinion, I was looking at the one from Beck Arnley, is that a quality product? Is there a better choice, should I just rebuild or buy another one?

If it came with an ECU that'd be the one you want to run. Otherwise swap over the EGR components and wire up the VSV... I don't think the harness needs to be completely swapped, but I don't have a wiring diagram for the JDM. I think you just need to run the one VSV signal wire and then you may get the positive for the other pin at the fuel pump resistor relay (brown wire with red stripe).

This is more of a longevity issue... if anything. In cooler climate areas or high altitude I can't say I'd worry about it. Somewhere like California, Florida, Arizona... I'd do everything I could to make sure that engine is running nice and cool and safe from detonation. You really may be just fine pulling 5? or so off the base timing, I'm not sure I haven't been through this... I'm going off the theory of the thing.

With the check engine light, there are no codes getting stored? Does your ECU have power at the BATT pin when the ignition is turned off? Put the diagnostic jumper in and driver the car. For as long as it usually takes for the check engine light to come on. It'll start blinking a code as you drive, you'll get at least a code 51, that one you may ignore. Now pull over periodically and see if there are any other codes. I'm thinking you're going to see either a code 52 or some code(s) related to the AFM.

I have no idea what he means about the O2 sensor... and NO, it will not affect your power like this. You can simply unplug the O2 sensor on these cars and you should see no difference. If the signal is missing or too far out of range (more than 200mV +/- 600mV) and the ECU will just ignore it and use the same base maps it uses when the car is started cold. On 89+ you'll get an O2 sensor heater circuit code along with the O2 sensor code but it doesn't do a thing.

Where can I get a diagnostic that will tell me what I need to know(About the code 52)? Where can I plug it in at when I'm driving?
thanks.:rofl: