88 supra still with problems 7MGE
 

OK so here is the just. I blew a head gasket and replaced it. put it all back together and now the engine stays cool but i keep getting cool air out of the heating system in the car itself.

The car doesn't want to stay at a proper idle and when i try to rev it to about 2000rpm it starts to fluctuate from 1200rpm to 2000rpm over and over unless i give it more gas and get it to about 3000rpm and it'll stay there. If i let off the gass it'll drop below 1000rpm and eventually die.

Might have 2 seperate problems here but i don't know. the heating in the car worked before i did the gasket replacement and i swear i checked my lines 4 even 5 times before i went to hook it all up.

one last thing after i thought i had it finished i took it to a local gas station and got some gas but on the way back my throttle got stuck mid shift and went up too like 7000rpm and i had to turn the car off at that high of an rpm and stop and get out and fix it thats cause i didn't screw down the throttle linkage down all the way. that happened in between the car cutting off on its own.

Please help me i need my Berniece back she means so much to me.

Had someone send new this ( http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...e-problem.html ) but my car isnt getting hot on idle just sounding hard and cutting off. My car got hot cause I didn't clamp every thing down at first and one of the hoses poped off due to my throttle getting stuck. (something else I didn't tighten down all the way.)

Suggestions:

1. Check the MAF sensor connector. Sometimes it looks like it is hoop up right; but inside terminals might be dirty.
2. Check The TPS connector
3. Check the IDLE valve connector, do you hear any sound out of the idle valve as soon as you turn off your car????
4. Check that the fuel pressure regulator and fuel pump are working correctly.

Do you have the check engine light on????

no check engine light
thanks i'll check and see where those are.

ok now i go to crank it up and it wont get past 500rpm and when i try and gas it it wont throttle or rev up at all. could the fuel pump or fuel filter be a problem?

Your car doesn't have a MAF... it has a VAFM and the GTE's have a KVAFM A huge difference between all three.

Check for diagnostic codes; Very few or the error codes will turn on the check engine light.

Fuel pump and filter are possibilities, but there are many others too. Start with checking the codes and post back.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/TechTi...ror_codes.aspx

Here'e the info on testing the VAFM (you may refer to it as an AFM if you like, both types used in the MKIII are AFM type devices).

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...ection=FI&P=94

the check engine light doesn't come on at all would it come on when i turn the car on with the wires connected?
oh and the fuel pump isn't the problem fuel works fine. something with the vacuum lines or the timing...or god help me compression if its compression i'm just putting the damn car up for a few weeks getting me a honda and saving till i can buy a gte or a 2jz or something of the sort.

The Check Engine light should ALWAYS come on when the key is turned to the ON position but not started; If it doesn't the bulb's burned out or there's a fault in the ECU.

If there are no diagnostic codes the Check Engine light will flash continuously at a high speed.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/TechTi...ror_codes.aspx

oh ok will get that done first thing in the morning was gonna do it today but didn't have enough time cause i had to work.

41 and 51 are the diagnostic codes my check engine light show to me. saying my throttle position sensor is the problem but i don't see how cause i checked that last night and it didn't seem to be the problem..idk. can anyone explain.

U said ur heat is cold. Does ur cruise control Work. If ur cruise control does not work and it did before then u have the vacuum lines crossed on the back of the intake pipe close to the fire wall. That vacuum controls the cruise control and the door that opens to feeds the heater core. that's what happen to me when I rebuild my motor

Code 41 is a break/short in the THA signal line or a problem with the ECU. Code 51 is the TPS IDL switch (completely different wires), the A/C, or a fault in the ECU. Test the wiring, test the IDL switch for continuity when closed... if possible try another TPS.

The TPS is used to not only trim fueling but also to tell the ECU when the engine is at idle so it can properly modulate the ISCV.

ok i got some youtube.com links for ya

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bKE20D4W_zM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZS0ZiZhUsIg

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mIoWKVT8oh8

any help would be appreciated.

What's the swishing noise? Timing belt not on?

Your TPS is unlikely to be the problem... the short causing the TPS related code 41 may have a lot to do with the problem though if it's in the harness and affecting the voltage at Vc... but you'll get that from your TPS just not being connected.

I would test the AFM thoroughly and verify that both mechanical and ignition timing are dead on. 10?BTDC for the ignition timing and don't forget it must be in diagnostic mode.

so i should put my timing light on the number 6 spark plug distributer cord and see if it hits on 10 not 0.

It need to be on the #1 plug wire; The GE is not like the GTE where 1 and 6 fire at the same time and either may be used. Yes, it needs to be at 10? not 0?.

Have you verified the mechanical timing is zeroed out?

you mean the timing belt and the crank shaft sprockets?

Yes, the harmonic balancer should read 0? and the marks on the cam gears should align with the marks on the rear timing cover (straight up and down). Keep in mind that every other rotation, they will not line up.

Also, this would be a good time to verify the timing belt is properly tensioned; that sound in your video that Cre referred to sounds horrible, and it does seem like it's at the front of the engine.