7mge hp increase info
 

Since the subject of trying to get 25% plus increases in hp out of a 7mge, I will try to address this all at once. I am not trying to put anyone down, but rather try to express the info that I have learned from experience with my 7mge and time on the forum here.
1. Back when the mk3 came out in1986.5 it was reviewed by Car and Driver and given a 0 to 60 time of 8 seconds which is slightly faster than a new Honda fit.

2.HP can be increased but it is hard and a lot of money must be invested compared to the potential of a 7mgte.

3.In the late 80’s the car was quick but in today’s world with faster and faster cars it is falling behind not to mention how heavy it is.

4. The 7m was the last of a series of motor started by Toyota in the 60’s so the jz series is much more modern and more reliable for those who like that option.

5. As far as I know there is no aftermarket ECU for the 7mge and the stock one is not able to be tuned.

6. Aftermarket parts are far fewer for the 7mge than they are for the 7mgte.

Here is what is available as far modifications and bolt ons that can be done for the 7mge that I know of. If anyone would like to add something please do:
Intake: there are a few intakes for the 7mge but all off them stay in the engine bay and eliminate the stock air box which draws cold air.

So without building some sort of heat shield or getting cooler air from outside all you will do is suck hot air which will result in lost hp.

Intake Manifold: I guess you could get or make a front facing intake manifold but not without investing a good deal of money for an unknown hp increase. The stock manifold is made for the 7mge and does its job well.

Header: there are really only 2 available OBX and Pacesetter. I know the pacesetter requires modification for fitment but don’t know about the OBX. If you do put in a header make sure it is either exhaust wrapped or ceramic coated to keep down engine bay temps which will hurt performance.

Exhaust: I think there is only one for the 7mge which is the pacesetter catback. All the other exhausts are made for the 7mgte. The best option is to just have a custom one made up with the muffler of your choice. I have the HKS twin tip muffler cat back for mine made for the gte. I may lose some power in the lower rpms but o well.

Tuning: this is tough since there are no real aftermarket electronics for the 7mge. And generic chips said to have high gains are not what they say they are.

AFM(air flow meter): this can be modified to make it a little more sensitive for better throttle response. But is not a MAF.

Head: the heads are the same for both motors the only difference is the intake cam which is more aggressive on the 7mge. Cleaning and porting and polishing can be done for increased air flow and regaining hp.

Rebuild: engines lose power over there life and a rebuild with fresh parts can bring back lost performance.

Increasing Compression: this can be done but will require more work and trial and error to avoid knocking.

Boring: this is usually down on a rebuild to smooth and even out the cylinder walls and will only give a small increase in displacement.

Egr: it is only for the good of preventing knock and should not be removed since its removal has no real benefit.

Weight Reduction: this is good if you want a track car but to get a real loss you will need to invest some decent money and get rid of a lot.

Cams: they do make them but it will most likely require adjustment with adjustable cam gears. They will most likely give a rougher idle and are made for the 7mgte, at least the Brian Crowers are. By the time you are down you could have bought a JDM 7mgte for the money.

Stroker Kit: I think this is available, but for nearly 3grand. A 2jz swap can be done for less than that. Thats a lot of money for a 60hp increase.

Turbo: Why? Toyota already made a good turbo motor. And the ct26 is know for a good long life for a turbo. Others have tried to turbo the 7mge and found it to be not worth the money or time.

ok that makes alot of sense and opens my eyes to the reasons why everyone says the GE is a money pit. wish this was posted sooner instead of me going out and finding mods i want to do lol. im guessing if i go with a 1JZ or 2JZ i cant use the trans i have? what is required for the conversion? and with the 7M-GTE will bolt onto my auto trans would be most effective. just get oil cooler and intercool. what else is required? cause at suprastore they give you just about everything you need. before i was just looking to make my supra look kick ass with balls to back it up with out going over board. which is why i figured just rebuild bore over .20 shave head .10 and add MHG with afew other mods. and go balls to the wall when i find a 1990 supra with the GTE and R154 trans. but with a engine gasket hit with pistons and new oil pump being like 400-500. and all the mods i want to do = total of 9k-10k with out even touching the body with body restore im looking 2-3k if not alittle more. also would adding this eather the steel or aluminum help and by how much? http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/part...veshafts//5545

ok ditch doing a 1JZ-2JZ ill just do a GTE. or hold off and see if the GE will last till i find the 90. cause i have 2 GE's one runs the other want to fire but wont. my guess bHG all fluids were black... nice... anyway im pulling the engine this sunday and taring it apart is my winter project. and i just might just do a rebuild keep it as is after that. or well taking the engine apart figure out what the hell i want to do lol....

I'd just take your time and rebuild the 7mge. You can do port and polish work on the head yourself to help with flow as well as port match everything. I think you will be suprised on how much pep you can bring back. Supra Sport also has some pretty good stuff.

All I was trying to say with this is that a 300hp 7mge could be possible but not without investing a good deal of money. Probably for the same amount you could double the hp with a 7mgte.

yeah iv checked out supra sport nice site though parts i need they dont have lol. also how would you do a port and polish yourself? i know i dont have the tools for that lol. but ill be rebuilding the GE cost less then doing a convertion and i would rather find a 90 with one it it and a R154 trans. less headache lol

To do a p&p job you will have to remove the valves from the head. You can really get into it and remove alot of metal which you have to be careful with or you can just do a good clean and smooth it out job. You will find the exhaust ports to be lined with carbon and the intake ports lined with residue from the pcv. Actually the whole intake will be coated from the pcv. There are videos on youtube of p&p ing but most of them are on big v8s that have much bigger ports. On the 7m the ports are much smaller and harder to work on. On mine I tried to do it myself and got sick of it and had the guy at the machine shop do it for me. He spent about 4 hours grinding away as well as a valve job and reshiming for $500.

how thats fairly cheep! but yeah ill be doing a complete overhaul of the engine so everything comes out and new gets put back in. easyer said then done plus i the work on the head and block. hope this goes smother then what im thinking it will lol. wont know till i try. and i will be asking questions cause the haynes repair manual i has gives more info in the 5M's and basicly skips over the 86.5 and 87's and then gos directly to the 89-92 7m-GTE witch are similar but still. ill be using Cygnus X1 witch as everyone has said the holy bible to the supra's! lol

Yeah for me the previous owner included a tsrm for me which is nice. Just remember the following for the head gasket:

A metal headgasket is way overkill for a na

Use copper spray by permatex on the gasket before install

Chase the threads to insure accurate torque readings

The factory head bolts can be reused but I went with arp headstuds for extra reasurance.

Retorquing after a few heat cycles never hurts to be sure

MHG comes with the rebuild kit! lol and ARP head bolts lol its like 500 but hey

a lot of good information on here thanks alot guys for posting that about the 7mge engine. I was gonna see if i could find a way to remove my egr and carbon canister its big and in the way but i guess i should keep it right?

The problem is that people see extras under the hood and instantly think there is a power gain from losing them . The egr is good and does not hurt performance and the canister allows for the buning of fumes from the gas tank that would just be vented into the air. And neither weighs much, so weight reduction is not a benefit.

i am currently in the process of upgrading/rebuilding my 7MGE. I really wanted to keep some of that *area under the curve* power that you have with a Naturally aspirated engine. Some things that I did to improve the power on mine were small improvements. It took A LOT of elbow grease to do the p&p and gasket match. but I used a die grinder w some 60 grit flapwheels. (about 1" in diameter you can get them from NAPA autoparts) then i used a drill (with a 6" boring bar ext) and some 300 grit sandpaper (glued to the flapwheels) but i p&p'd the INTAKE MANIFOLD and the both sides of the CYLINDER HEAD. then i used some 800 grit by hand to finish. If you have the money you can just pay a performance shop to do it. You are not supposed to polish AFTER the injectors, so leave that section Rough to aid in fuel atomization. you will DEFINITELY want to completely disassemble the head before doing ANY sanding or cutting. THEN have it jet washed at a machine shop before reassembling. I would also recommend a 3 angle valve job while it is all tore down.

If you dont want to go through all that. i would def recommend having the head milled about .020" or more (but I wouldnt feel comfortable going over .040") just to increase the compression ratio. Also going w a thinner stronger gasket such as a cometic or hks stainless steel mls will raise compression (hp) and will last much longer than the graphite stock one. If you go with a SS hg then you def need to run ARP studs or at least New bolts.

Also another small improvement you can do is replace the old 23lb flywheel (if of course you have a standard) with a new lightweight flywheel. i went with a chrome-moly 12lb. That will free up some of the rotational mass that is "loading" the motor during acceleration. Good luck!

LONG LIVE NA POWER!! lol :bigthumb:

i vote sticky or FAQ!!!!!:bigthumb::bigthumb::bigthumb:

All I can say about porting and polishing is that it is very intensive. I gave up after a few hours and had the guy at the machine shop do it since he has much more experience. I'm not trying to scare anyone but if you are not patient don't start P&P ing. I unfortunatly did not take any pictures of my head but here are good pics of a 7m that is:

http://users.tpg.com.au/users/loats/...adporting.html

That's a pretty good article. Although it does sort of lump the ideas of p&p and bowl/chamber blending into the same category.

Most people do them together although it's only necessary to blend the combustion chambers if you want to decrease the risk of ping or ultimately run lower octane fuel/higher compression ratios. The fact that it is an aluminum head with a "hemi-style" valve arrangement makes it an ideal candidate for high compression. But def strengthen up that HG with a metal one and run studs before going any higher than 9.5:1. I hope to achieve close to 10.5:1 with my setup. Although I will be running 92 octane at the very least. I am running +sized pistons, a thinner MLS cometic HG, the head has been milled .020" and the block has been milled .007" it still remains a non-interference motor so there is still room for more. Lol but I don't want to mill anymore than that.

Oh yeah last thing, when you are blending, try not to take too much off of the port divider, it's easy to significantly increase your combustion chamber size and thereby reduce your comp rat.