Average HP Gains (?30HP?)
 

From the 3 items on a 88 MK3 Turbo A/T.. What HP gains you think I will see?

Air filter system - BLITZ LM Intake System
Down pipe - Megan Racing 3in
Exhaust system - Custom 3in W/Dual 3in Muffler

I was thinking it would bring me from 230 to 260.

10hp for the filter system
5hp from the down pipe
15hp from the exhaust system
30HP gain

What you think.? :uh:

think you need to build a heat shield around that air filter. or you might see hp loss.

GREAT IDEA!! I was just going to make a plastic box.. however, heat shield box?? what do you think?? What type of metal is easily available, affordable and works great as a heat shield?

I looked for the answer but no find? Anyone know if one of them LONG cone filters are any better than the average size one like the one I have listed above? I seen the long ones in the part store... Was just wondering..

You can use a small, rectangular plastic trash can to make the heat sheild for the filster with. Just cut it so that teh plastic will cover any side taht might be expsed to hot air form the engine. Hope that helps.

If you take your time you can use a dremel and a drill to make a nice one out of aluminum. Just use posterboard to make up a template first. I used rubber hose and zip ties to make guards for the edges. Although mine is for a 7mge, it can be done for a 7mgte.
http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...picture552.jpg

Wow, dude.. Love it!

At the wheels or at the crank? In either case I'd say your estimates may be close or just a little over optimistic. What mods do you currently have that put you at 230 and how was that measured?

The stock intake isn't THAT restrictive and close to stock engines see little improvement.... running a crap filter in the stock box... now that's another story. Once you get into the mid 300's the box has gotta go or be modded appropriately.

Well, closer to crank.. You know me.. Mr.Optimistic.. What would you say would be a better estimate of the parts I listed above in HP gain?

another idea if you dont want a box in your engine bay, just route a pipe down under the headlight behind the fog light near the road. fresh cold clean air and a non cluttered engine bay..

Would it be better to combine both ideas?
Heat shield/Box
Pipe from below coming up

a heat shield and box is the same idea. anything to keep the HOT air from your air filter.

Id suggest placing your air filter down were the snorkel for the stock air box is by running a pipe from the maf to the air filter and than just blocking it off were the original box used to be. have a smart clean engine bay with cool air. make sure you put one on the side were the rad is.. block the rad hot air too..

thats what im doing once i get my air filter

I have been researching filtration, gains, etc.. Just for some solid proof on WHAT filter to choose.. I simply want to combine the best PROVEN filter with some of the ideas we have come up with here.

Check this out.. My.. PROOF..! (Don't kill me if you have seen this before)

http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/filters_test/2/

:crazy:

there are ton of air filter posts around here.. some in the faq i think.. aem dry flow filter works just as well as the leading brands for less cost.
oh and if anyone is using one of those honeycomb air filters.. im going to kick you in the junk..

Man that review/test is OLD.... A lot of new stuff on the market and sadly only one or two products which are any better.

What~! Which products? Any proof? Please share.. :bow: ::Cre's knowledge::

There are some tests out there where they do a more scientific test... I'll look for the book mark. They used MEASURED particulate which is all a known size and suck that through the filters while measuring the difference in air pressure outside the filter vs inside (using a device known as a differential manometer) Amsoil and AEM were the top dogs, IIRC. I don't think Apex'i was included. IMO Apex'i, AEM and Amsoil are all excellent choices... I lean toward AEM just because I switched to those before I found out about Amsoil's offerings. I switched from Apex'i when my old one got damaged and I found I could get the AEM for half as much.

I replaced the K&N FIPK with an AEM filter. The AEM has proven to be an outstanding choice.
I have had the AEM for over three years now. It is very easy to service. The filter shows no signs of wear from the numerous times I have cleaned it. The intake throat has no detectible contamination residue in it, when I run a rag around the inside of the pipe.
The K&N always had an oil residue and some slight detectable grit mixed in.

There's no doubt about K&N's air filter sucking (pun intended)...


Here's a fun experiment for someone: Buy a differential manometer (hint: try searching ebay for magnehelic ;) ). Now connect the filter to a vacuum and connect the hose to a nipple in that pipe. Now build a box around the filter and give it an inlet pipe the same size as the outlet. Add a nipple and connect the other gauge hose to that nipple... now turn on the vacuum or engine and record the pressure drop across the filter. Now try the next filter and record it, and so on. This and the minimum particulate size are the two important qualities behind a good filter... personally I'll take something with a tiny bit more restriction if my engine will last longer, but with the three I listed the pressure drop I've seen reported is minimal anyway.