7mge vs. 7mgte Block
 

I recently blew my head gasket for the second time on a 7mge and I'm on my third engine. After searching I finally learned that the stock head bolts are pieces of shyt that stretch too far. So its only a matter of time before this third one goes again. but on the bright side I have really two spare engines for scrap. I'm planning on boring out one of the two blocks dropping over-sized pistons in and rebuilding it with boost and ARP head bolts. I got one good crank, and one good head and the block. Will boosting work on this??

First off, you posted in the wrong section... You want to post in the MKIII section.

Second. The stock bolts are fine, you've been given bad info. The probelm is a crap torque spec in Toyota's service publications and people who don't get the block and head resurfaced if there is ANY pitting or warpage before reassembling after a blown head gasket. Actually, the stock bolts are about as robust as ARPs and hold up fine at the ARP head bolt spec.

Third. You're not explaining as well as I like to see... I assume you're saying you've got a GE block, GTE head and some sort of crank.... The heads are the same, the only different on the top id the intake cam; use a GTE one. The bottom end are the same year for year too... there was a change in cranks around 89 though. I recommend using a crank for whatever year the ECU being used if from. Just for cleanliness and longevity.... but the difference is a 250RPM change in redline and balancing. Definitely use GTE pistons. The GTE also has oil squirters, probably worth replacing them when you build this.

what cre also did not mention is to try searching the dam site. this was in a post in the mk3 faq:
http://4cefed.com/conversion.html

Bad day? Ditto.... love the xanax.... all good now. :boring:

every day without my mk2 off the road is a bad day...

the link for the transmission conversion is broken. :(

7mge vs 7mgte
 

ok, so i have an 89 cressida that came with a 7mge that i want to put a 7mgte in. as far as blocks is there a difference? and are the heads interchangeable? and as far as the redline change on the crank balencing, is it an increse or a drop? and will that change fuel cut or no?

Ok, not sure about the whole rpm difference thing. I would think that would be controlled by the ECU and have NOTHING to do with the crank/block/heads. IMO.

However, the ONLY difference (that i am aware of) is the turbo pistons are dished giving it a lower compression ratio (8.5:1??) whereas the NA pistons are flat top w/ valve reliefs and has a compression ratio around 9.2 (those comp rats could be wrong, if somebody knows for sure plz correct) and there are oil squirters under the turbo pistons to keep them cool. Also, as someone else mentioned, the cams on the NA heads are slightly more aggressive, and offer a slight *bolt on* upgrade from the milder turbo cams.

As far as the blown headgasket problem, I recently picked up a "Cometic" multilayered stainless steel gasket, w arp studs. DEF better than the stock graphite w stock bolts. I have heard that all of the "turbo fanboys" are all running cometic or HKS and are pushing 20-30 psi boost through those w/ out blowing them. good luck!

If you put a GTE in your Cressida, then you need to run GTE electronics. Period.

As for some of your questions, the redline dropped after 89 by about 250RPMs. The N/A cams in a Turbo engine give a little more low end power, but suffer in the high end. Most people have determined it's better to keep the turbo cams (wonder why Toyota did it?). Block differences are as mentioned, including turbo block has 2 knock sensors whereas GE has 1, also the oil ports are already drilled for feed and return lines.

Have you searched the forum? I think I've seen about 10 threads within the last 2 weeks asking about GTE vs GE block differences, where this question has been answered several times.

The GE pistons are dished also. The turbo pistons have a deeper dish Then the NA pistons