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Installing BOV
ok, so i know SOMEONE has asked this question before but when i looked it up i didnt find any thread that was really specific to that. just one thread that touched on it but then talked about something else. i'm guessing its not that hard, just remove the black plastic hose and put the BOV thats on the flange where the hose used to go. but my question is if i should resurculate the air because of the MAF and which vacume hose goes where.
if threre's a thread for this, please just give me the link. |
You've pretty much got it all right. You have a KVAFM (AFM for short) not a MAF though... they are quite different types of device. The vacuum line merely needs to a vacuum reference AFTER the throttle plate. Tapping the vacuum line running to the cruise control is a popular choice, but there's no reason not to use the same vac line as the stock valve used.
Yes, recirculating is preferred. Not doing so can cause excessive richness when the valve opens and for some seriously irritating stalling and loss of power when trying to lean back in on the gas. Not everyone has a problem and I suspect it's largely due to the effectiveness of the valve to purge and do so quickly and the amount of boost, etc. |
ok, so i just read the difference between the MAF and the KVAMF. i guess we have the little bit older model. lol
anyways, so when installing the new BOV does the old one need to be removed? or can it just stay there as a secondary? and i really like the whosh sound that it makes, but if its going to mess up my car or significantly decrease throttle response, than i'm willing to do the recirculating. how difficult is that? and will the whosh noise basically be gone? |
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well w/o reading up on it... sounds like it, yes.
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ok. So I guess I can take it off.
But either way I'm guessing there isn't a thread that goes in detail about this? |
try supraforums
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Yes, you can run them in sequence. You'll need to check the opening spring rates so you know which will open first, you definitely want one to open a bit before the other to ensure that (if they're sharing the same vac source) there is no latency introduced.
You say you like the Woosh,... so why are you looking to change? And yes, you can run two OEM style or Bosh style BPV too... supply them with vacuum from different location is my recommendation there. Unless you're running VERY high boot and having issues with compressor surge there's really no reason to run dual unless you're running a BPV and a BOV so you can get that uber cool, ricer x-treme chirping going on... but the woosh will be significantly less too. |
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and....i'm kind of confused. i'm adding one because i only have a stock one and it doesnt make the whosh noise as loud as i'd like it to. and no, since i'm just starting to build it up, i'm running stock boost even though the previous owner was running like...12-14psi with almost stock everything :eek3: |
It's not complicated at all, I didn't mean to give that impression... you just want to be sure that the vacuum signal has enough volume to open at least one of the valves with as little delay as possible. It's like launching a pee from a single straw versus trying to blow 4 the same distance from 4 straws in your mouth at the same time.... all four probably won't make it past your feet and you're going to have to blow a lot harder.... so, to avoid that trouble you either want one of the valves to open with a much lighter vacuum signal or you'll want to supply each with it's own line from the intake plenum. Not a very big deal.
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Please use full word terminology!
Please do not take exception to this request, because it is not specific to just your questions and answers, and is not directed at you.... BUT!
Forum all over the internet would be so much more informative in general if the participants would use full word terminology rather that anachronisms or abbreviations. I realize that cryptic writing has become the internet standard, but it sure limits the sharing of knowledge. :bouncy: TYVM Thanks You Very Much! Prof. Professor Bob Reclaiming 1987 M7-GTE Tubo and A340E transmission. |
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Ok, that's enough of that, There's a thread about this in the off-topic section. If anyone feels the need to discuss it further, please do so there.... and please keep it civil.
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hey cre, now back on topic..
i just read on another page that having two pressure release systems is actually a good thing because you can adjust the spring on the stock to handle small pressure and the (lets just say HKS because thats what i'm getting) hks one tighter for the heavier boost levels. is this true? or only for cars that boost ALOT? and i also read that you shouldnt mess with the spring rate of an HKS. |
Hey bro if you do this install of an aftermarket bov with the (whooosh) sound haha, can you post a pic or two on how it turned out??
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I must say, the stock BPV on my MR2 is LOUD... so's the Bosch that's on my former Supra... they've both got much larger apertures. |
ohhhhhhhh. ok. lol now i get it
and my stock one is kind of weird. sometimes it gives the whosh loud and how i like it. but most of the time its almost non-exsistent. the sound of the engine overpowers it |
ok, well i got it today and installed it right away.
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pi...00000216988284 (i know its facebook but w/e) anyways so i actually pulled it off and installed it. it works great..........except for the one problem i knew was comming. the stalling. lol it kinda sucked because i was testing it and my car stalled right next to this really hot chick, i waited till she pulled away to start my car lol so my question now is, for the resurculation thing, do i just need to get a hose and connect the outlet of the BOV to the acordion bend where the old one went? |
another question. lol
now that i have a BOV, shouldnt the boost gauge read 0 when i'm not on the gas? EDIT: ANOTHER question. will getting a MAF instead of AFM help at all? and will rasing the idle rpm be a shor-term fix? |
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That I'm not sure of.... What vacuum line did you tap into for the gauge source? Or are you running the stock boost gauge?
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Well, different vacuum lines may see different amounts of boost pressure as well as different amounts of vacuum. You may be seeing excessive amounts of vacuum pressure because your line for your boost gauge may not be installed on an ideal vacuum line.
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Vacuum lines also have a response time, depending on the source (and I don't just mean before or after the throttle body). For example providing the wastegate actuator with a signal after the intercooler will net you more power due to the turbo having to reach a higher pressure to compensate losses imposed by the IC before it'll reach the actuator spring's pressure. The downside is that due to the significant lag you'll see surges in boost and air temp.... not so good.
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ok. i will check where the vacuum line is hooked up and go from there
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